Engine will not crank over?

Its possible
did you check your PM I sent you one !Let me know
its AIRBAG/VATS fuse
i think you should have fuses on the inside under dash and under /around the clove box area

That's great Ma'am

For my info... How did you find out it was a bad starter?

Im guessing it isnt a factory remote start? Remove it from the car, convenient I know, but they are cheap electronics and Fail quite often. Might even be the starter, have that tested too, might be drawing too much on that first start in the AM

Check your e. Mail

If you tap on the starter and it works, the starter is the problem. Verify 12 volts at the small wire on the starter with the key in the crank position, if it has it, then replace the starter

When this happens, you need to have a helper turn the key to the start position while you check to see if you are getting 12 volts to the smaller wire on the starter. IF you are, then the starter is most likely the problem. If not, I would move to the ignition switch. As far as the security light, that is a possible problem, but usually the system will shut the fuel pump and ignition system down, but the starter will still work.

THe key couldbe a problem.

The car ran fine when I got it. Then it would stop starting. I heard a "whizzing" sound from somewere in the engine. No power to windows headlights or stereo. Only happened after I drove it. Sometimes it would sit for hours and finally start again and other times I would have to leave it over night. Brought to 3 different mechanics. No codes at all. Brand new battery, new fuel filter, ran lucus fuel filter cleaner and seafoam thru it. The last mechanic said that he tested the cam sensor and the crankshaft sensor and got nothing. Ran fine after that until today when I died at the bank. Started up about 20 minutes later and got home. In the driveway I started it and turned it off. On the third time I heard the whizzing/scraping noise again and it stalled. Wont start again. Sometimes it doesnt start other times it sputters and stalls. When it sputters and I put my foot on the gas it just sputters even worse. The rpms move from about 700 to 1200 in idle and if I turn the wheel at a dead stop the battery meter goes down and lights dim. I dont know what to do with it anymore.

Check for a loose belt or bad harmonic damper for the problem when turning the steering.

You seem to have an electrical issue and somewhere a connection is not as secure as it should be which is failing intermittently.

The power windows, headlights or stereo not working indicates the problem is at the battery terminals or main fusible links. You could have a bad ground circut connection as well.

THIS WAS DEFINITELY A POOR CHOICE FOR A "GET AWAY CAR" AT THE BANK!

I WAS WAITING FOR YOU TO GET "ESTABLISHED" WITH ANOTHER EXPERT, BEFORE I THREW IN MY ANSWER.....I DO NOT KNOW YOUR SPECIFIC VEHICLE, I'M MORE IN TUNE WITH OLDER, PRE-COMPUTER VEHICLES......MAINLY JEEP CJs AND OLDER FORDS

WHAT CAUGHT MY ATTENTION WAS THE "WHIZZING" NOISE YOU ARE HEARING ALONG WITH THE OTHER ELECTRICAL ISSUES....I WONDER IF THE SOUND, SOUNDS LIKE, TURNING YOUR KEY TO "START", WHILE THE ENGINE IS ALREADY RUNNING???

THEY ARE CRAMMING MORE AND MORE STUFF INTO SMALLER PLACES....PRETTY MUCH, JUST ABOUT ALL OF IT IS TOUCHING/ NEARLY TOUCHING SOMETHING ELSE

"S WIRE" (ON VEHICLES I'M FAMILIAR WITH) IS THE WIRE THAT ACTIVATES THE STARTER WHEN THE KEY IS TURNED....IT TRAVELS THRU SEVERAL SAFETY'S AND SUCH BEFORE IT REACHES THE STARTER.

ALONG THE WAY, OR EVEN WHEN IT ARRIVES AT THE STARTER, THE WIRE BE BARE, AND IT POSSIBLY/ INTERMITTENTLY TOUCHING SOMETHING SOMETHING THAT IS "FULL TIME 12V".....THIS SCENARIO WOULD ACTIVATE THE STARTER OWN IT'S OWN, WITHOUT EVEN TOUCHING THE KEY

ON STARTERS SUCH AS OLDER CHEVYS (LIKE SOME NEWER CARS) THE BATTERY AND ELECTRICAL FEEDS COME OFF OF THE "HARD TO GET TO" STARTER, THE WIRES ARE SO "GENEROUSLY" SHORT, YOU MUST INSTALL THEM IN A HARD TO SEE/ TIGHT SPOT, I HAVE SEEN THE RINGS INSTALLED ON THE WRONG POSTS (USUALLY FIGGERED OUT IMMEDIATELY)

FORD/ CJs....DO ALL OF "STARTING" AND "FEEDING THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM" FROM UP ON THE FENDER OR FIREWALL, USING A REMOTE STARTER SOLENOID.....ONLY ONE BIG CABLE GOES DOWN TO THE STARTER......I LIKE 'EM!!!

....ON THE CHEVY TYPE SET UP

BASICALLY RING TERMINALS THAT NUTS HOLD ONTO STUDS, IF THE RING IS SET PERFECTLY ON THE STUD, CARELESSNESS IN TIGHTENING THE NUT SOMETIMES ALLOWS THE RING TERMINAL TO "TWIST" AND TOUCH/ GET NEAR THE NEXT NEARBY ELECTRIC STUD.

THESE ARE JUST SOME THOUGHTS, I THINK THAT EVERYBODY SHOULD, AT MINIMUM, HAVE ANY AND EVERY OPTION OR POSSIBILITY PRESENTED TO THEM (RIGHT OR WRONG)

AS FAR AS CHECKING CONNECTIONS---LOOK THIS OVER

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1996-chevrolet-tahoe-wont-start-sounds-dead-battery-jumpbox-get-same-reults

IF THE WHIZZING IS NOT THE STARTER....IT WOULD BE NICE IF YOU HAD THE HOOD OPEN AND COULD AT LEAST PIN DOWN ABOUT THE AREA WHERE THE RACKET IS ORIGINATING FROM...IF POSSIBLE!

KEEP US POSTED

THE MEDIC