distributor replacement instructions please

Hi Katbarwick,

When you say it won't crank but it sounds like it. Do you mean it cranks over but it won't actually start? If this is the case where the engine just cranks or turns over but does not start and acts like it wants to sometimes, I can almost guarantee that you go the distributor one or more cam teeth off. Did you mark the position of the rotor to housing when removing it?

Here is the installation process. Let me know if you have questions but I suspect you are going to have to remove the distributor and reinstall it in the correct position.

I can't get the motor to start. I re-installed the distributor and can't find top dead center. I have alligned the indicator marks on the damper with the marks on the front of the motor and positioned the rotor to the number one plug after what i thought the compression stroke was and tightened everything down but when I try to start the motor it won't start but will backfire.

Remove the distributor

Your valve and ignition timing are off. You need to put engine no.1 piston on its compression-line the markings at the damper to TDC/0 now install the distributor making sure the rotor is pointing to the no.1 cap tower.

not only do you have to find top dead center on the #1 cylinder but on those types of distributers you have to aline the rotor on the no 6 mark thats on the body of the distrubuter this will automatically aline the distrubuter with the no1 cylinder on the cap hope this helps!!!!!!!!

My vehicle has been down for about eight months. When I parked it the intake manifold was spilling water out just above the water port on the drivers side. I put a new intake manifold gasket on and put a bead of black silicone at the front and back of the intake and part way up on the heads, then put the intake gaskets on overlapping. I changed all the o-rings in the spider assembly since I was there. I ohm tested all the poppitt's and they are in spec ranges. Problem I did not mark the distributor to the block or anything. I took it out and laid out facing how it came out, but now eight months later it has been moved a couple few times and can't be sure. So what is the procedure for the number one to be top dead center and not mess anything up from here? Thank you

Hello,

Down below I have included step by step instructions for ensuring that the number one cylinder is at top dead center for your vehicle. Hope this helps.

Thank you,
Alex
2CarPros

I just installed new intake manifold gaskets and fuel injection o-rings in the spider assembly. I also checked the ohms of the poppit's and they were all within spec. I didn't mark the distributor on the intake or the rotor on the distributor when I pulled it out. I had just laid it the way it came out. Don't know what I was thinking. Now some weeks later and the distributor behind handled a couple times I would rather be sure. What is the procedure for installing and timing. Thank you for your assistance.

Good morning,

I posted the procedure for you below as well as some pictures for you to view.

Roy

Important: The engine front cover has 2 alignment tabs and the crankshaft balancer has 2 alignment marks (spaced 90 degrees apart) which are used for positioning number 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). With the piston on the compression stroke and at top dead center, the crankshaft balancer alignment mark (1) must align with the engine front cover tab (2) and the crankshaft balancer alignment mark (4) must align with the engine front cover tab (3).


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1. Rotate the crankshaft balancer clockwise until the alignment marks on the crankshaft balancer are aligned with the tabs on the engine front cover and the number 1 piston is at top dead center of the compression stroke.


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2. Remove the distributor cap bolts and discard.
3. Remove the distributor cap.


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4. Install a NEW distributor gasket onto the distributor.
5. Align the indent hole on the driven gear with the paint mark on the distributor housing.


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6. Ensure that the distributor rotor segment points to the cap hold area.
7. Align the slotted tang in the oil pump driveshaft with the distributor driveshaft.
Rotate the oil pump driveshaft with a screwdriver if necessary.


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8. Install the distributor and distributor clamp.
The flat in the distributor housing must point toward the front of the engine.


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9. Once the distributor is fully seated, align the distributor rotor segment with the number 6 pointer (1) that is cast into the distributor base.
If the distributor rotor segment does not come within a few degrees of the number 6 pointer (1), the gear mesh between the distributor and camshaft may be off a tooth or more. Repeat the procedure again in order to achieve proper alignment.


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10. Install the distributor clamp bolt.
^ Tighten the distributor clamp bolt to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).

NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.


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11. Install the distributor cap and NEW distributor cap bolts.
^ Tighten the distributor cap bolts to 2.4 Nm (21 inch lbs.).


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12. Install the ignition coil wire harness.

When I install the distributor the rotor isn't facing the number one spark plug. Is it irrelevant which spark plug terminal it faces just as long as it is facing the number six on the distributor base.

When you install it, it will not be pointing to number one because where it comes out of the cap is not where the rotor needs to point due to the configuration of the cap.

Roy

I'm not looking at it right now, but roughly should it be pointing at between say 9-10 on a clock?

Did you follow the instructions?

Roy

Yes I did and all four marks lined up as they should. Then I lined up the white mark and the indent. Placed the distributor in the hole with the flat side forward and the rotor actually before the number six on the base. Then when it rotated with the gear it is on the number six on the base. I just like to be sure. I don't know why I'm second guessing myself so much on this. First thing I've worked on since my dad past away. Maybe that has to do with it. Thank you for your time and help.

Sounds like you have done it correctly.

Roy

Well it finally stopped raining so I could finish it up and get it started. When I turned the key to on there is a fuel leak from the lines going into the spider assembly. I canned the o-rings going to it and some spacers and washers. Can you give me a diagram of how they go in case I did something wrong? Thank you

I attached a picture for you of the line with spacer and washers.

Roy

It looks like there are three o-rings and the plastic spacer.

There are two o-rings, spacer, and washer.

Roy

I am R&R the intake manifold. I ready to reinstall the distributor (to point to no# 1 cyl.). Even though I was sure to mark the rotor for proper install, the notch for oill pump doesnt seem to allow it to dop alol the way down, it does drop all the way but not where I marked it upon removal. The engine was not disturbed while it was out. what could it be?

Sounds like your not fully in the no.1 piston TDC/Compression stroke-look at the damper when your on TDC on the no.1 is the mark lined up TDC/0 deg.

thank you for your time! Next time, I will definately give u guys a much earned donation!I am just alittle poor for now. Thanks again! Merry Christmas and God Bless!

I have the SUV listed above LT model. I replaced intake manifold gasket and now trying to figure out how to correctly install the round top distributor. any help is much appreciate!

Good morning,

I attached the procedure below. Make sure the engine is at top dead center compression stroke.

Roy

Preassembled replacement distributors are not available. Components are available to assemble a new distributor. Some components, such as the air cleaner, may need to be removed to reach the distributor. The distributor has a separate ignition coil that mounts to a bracket on the top of the engine.

REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
Make sure the ignition switch is "OFF."

1. Air cleaner and hoses.
2. Electrical connectors at the side of the distributor cap.
3. Two screws on the sides of the distributor cap.
4. Ignition coil wire and spark plug wires on either the left or right side of the distributor.
5. Distributor cap and move it aside.
A. Use chalk to note the position of the rotor in relation to the engine.
B. Use chalk to note the position of the distributor housing in relation to the engine.

6. Distributor bolt and hold-down clamp.
7. Distributor and gasket, when present.

INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Distributor and gasket when present.
A. To ensure correct timing of the distributor, it must be installed with the rotor correctly positioned as noted in step 5 of the removal procedure. Line up the rotor to the mark on the engine, and the mark on the housing to the engine. Rotate the distributor shaft 25° to the left from the scribed mark when installing.
B. If the distributor shaft won't drop into the engine, remove the distributor, insert a screwdriver into the hole for the distributor and rotate the oil pump driveshaft so it lines up with the distributor drive gear.
2. Hold-down clamp and bolt.

Tighten
Bolt to 27 Nm (20 lbs. in.).

3. Distributor cap with two screws.
4. Wiring harness connectors to the sealed ICM connectors at the side of the distributor.
5. Spark plug wires and coil wire.
6. Air cleaner and hoses.
^ Check the ignition base timing.

Changed fuel pressure regulator had to remove distributor cause clip that holds fuel lines in flew now truck cranks, but does not fire over, It gets gas got spark. at a loss as to what could be wrong as we have reset the distributor multiple times thinking we did not get in right position, but to no avail.

The distributor cap is a little confusing as ti which cylinder the rotor is pointing to. You have to bring the engine up to TDC on #1 on the compression stroke and then align these marks.

My distributor is different then that one and yes we have it tdc. so unless the lines on harmonic is wrong place we did everything by the book.

My distributor also is not stamped with a six like all the videos.

If you have the flat distributor cap, they definitely do not line up on the outside. You have to look at the inside of the cap to find #1.

If you have a non OBD2 system, you will have the old style distributor and that one should be easy to install.

It s the vertical style my buddy who is certified said something about being an adjustable distributor should the fuel regulator needed set before install it came with a bit to do so, but we assumed it should be set close enough to run on out of the package.

The last picture looks like mine. I cannot tell if it has two plugs like mine or not, but the rest seems right.

You need to go back to basics and test fuel pressure and spark. This system will not run under 55PSI of fuel pressure.

We have spark just does not seem that it is firing fast enough or maybe my firing order different and I cannot check fuel pressure. do not have access to a gauge to do it.

auto parts rents them.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

For $160.00 where I am at.

Unfortunately you are just spinning your wheels if you do not have a fuel pressure gauge. Fuel pressure is critical on this engine.

Fuel pressure is spot-on moving on to replacing the distributor.

Spot on? What exactly is the pressure KOEO?

75 at peak when you turn key settles to 60.

Or to word it a little more clearly when you turn key it jumps to around 75 then settles to 60.