Weak and intermittent spark

Tiny
PHILIPEC
  • MEMBER
  • 1975 JEEP CJ5
  • 4.2L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 100,000 MILES
Lost spark after taking a short test drive just after rebuilding the carburetor. Decided to renew the entire ignition system (new plugs, new plug wires, new rotor, new cap, new distributor, new coil and new ignition control). While I was at it, I also replaced the timing chain and water pump. I tripled checked the timing when installing the new timing gear. I know that is correct.

I get a strong and consistent spark from the coil (testing coil lead against block when cranking). I get a very weak and intermittent spark at the spark plugs (holding the plug against the block when cranking). I occasionally get a strong blue spark at the spark plug at the end of a cranking cycle (last spark after disengaging the starter).

I have 12.4 volts at the coil positive terminal and about 10.2 volts at the negative terminal when cranking, I've installed a jumper from the "I" terminal on the solenoid to the positive coil terminal to minimize voltage drop through the ignition switch circuit.

I've got 12 volts into and out of the ignition control module. I've installed two different and new ignition control modules. Unfortunately, I have not been able to test the ignition control modules as all of the local auto parts stores have either removed they test machines or don't have the correct jumpers to connect the module to the tester. Apparently a lost art at the parts store. In any case, since I'm getting spark (just weak and intermittent), and it remains the same with either of the new modules installed, I'm guessing that it is okay?

I've got the Prestolite distributor setup and I suspect that it may not be working right. As I said, it is a new (re-manufactured) from the parts store. Is there any way to test the Prestolite distributor using a voltmeter or test light? As I said, the spark coming from the coil to the distributor is strong. It just gets lost somewhere in the dizzy.

Any other ideas welcome too. I'm really searching for a solution.
Sunday, June 16th, 2019 AT 8:26 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,005 POSTS
Has your Jeep been upgraded ignition wise from OE?

Does it have a ballast resistor in the ignition system? (Just want to know)

Did we stay with the original type spark plugs or were we talked into something more modern? Like them stupid hypodermic needle looking jobs?

Sorry, I've been CJ Jeep all of my life (never cheated with a different daily driver) I can't comprehend some of the things people do to them!

Did you get the correct coil specific to your rig or were you asked questions and "you" had to guess which one to get?

Where'd you get it at? Part number?

I no likey Prestolite (I upgraded my '77 to Motorcraft which CJs used in 1979) I did find that usually a Prestolite item usually outright failed did not play tricks on you other than figuring out where to look!

Failures occurred way too often for me with the Prestolite, usually at the worst of times and places.

I had had very few issues with the '79 an '80 that I had previously owned. That steered me into upgrading the '77 258 to Motorcraft.

If your distributor pick-up was bad, you would have no spark at all.

I'm guessing you cannot time it because it will not run?

Have you moved the distributor a little this way and that to try to get it to bust off and run?

Just for giggles, maybe it's fuel related? What does 2 teaspoons of gas do down the carburetor throat and an attempted start do? How does it act?

Pic below of the Presto beside my Motorcraft, I gutted it and a little modificationing, (mainly the drive gear has been removed) it is now used in conjunction with my electric drill to "prime" the oil galleys in rebuilt 232s and 258s before they are ever cranked up

Your turn,

The Medic
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Sunday, June 16th, 2019 AT 7:49 PM
Tiny
PHILIPEC
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Original Ignition System
No ballast resistor
Original Type spark plugs
The coil is the type that uses a resistor wire or external resistor

You assumption that I cannot time it because it will not run is correct. I have moved the distributor from one extreme to the other and found what seems to be the "best" position somewhere in the middle based upon how close the engine comes to running. The engine coughs and sputters, but just does not have consistent enough spark to catch and run.

It does not seem to be fuel related as there is plenty of fuel in the bottom of the manifold looking through the carburetor. The gas is fresh. And I have installed a pressure regulator on the fuel line to ensure we are not flooding the carburetor with too much pressure.

The spark is simply very erratic. Sometimes none at all. Sometimes very weak. Very rarely. At the end of a cranking cycle, the spark is very strong. It's acting like a loose wire or ground, but I've checked all the grounds and wires multiple times and cannot find anything amiss.

Could the pickup in the distributor be loose somehow, or moving internally causing a weak spark? Could the new rotor/new cap somehow be misaligned?
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Monday, June 17th, 2019 AT 8:41 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,005 POSTS
Prestolite

Your coil requires an external resistor. Either a resistance wire or a ballast resistor.

Install the B.R. Just before the positive side of the coil.

Distributor test.

Disconnect the distributor wires (2) connect Mr. Voltmeter's leads to both distributor wire connectors, alligator clips work well. Set the voltmeter to ohms and test for continuity.

Presto has miniature solid bell wire wires running into it. If they were never really fastened down good, they can and will shake and flop about and break! One of several reasons I dislike Presto!

Move the wire about while watching the voltmeter to see if you have a break in yours.

Your turn,

The Medic
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Monday, June 17th, 2019 AT 5:47 PM

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