Was the Exhaust Manifold, Front Pipe supposed to sway during Catalytic Converter Install?

Tiny
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  • 2006 MITSUBISHI MONTERO
  • 3.8L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 195,000 MILES
I checked out your GoFundMe and I'm ready to donate if this goes well, for sure.

Long story, Homestead backup vehicle, sat a lot between service expecting the service to be good.

Started off with Cylinder 5 misfire and running too rich. I myself replaced the Air Filter, Mass Airflow Sensor, All Oxygen Sensors, Fuel Pump, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Spark Plug Wires, Spark Plugs, Select Electrical Fuses, 1 Relay, Battery, Alternator, Battery Fusible link with best premium parts. OEM usually discontinued. Some OEM was shipped from Japan using either Megazip or Amayama. I love this SUV; it won the Dakar! Some of it surely ended up in 2006!

Anyways, my work did not fix it, so I sent it to Nippon Auto Works Vegas to replace the fuel injectors with decent quality aftermarket from Rockauto, not premium. There aren't as many gas outvents as OEM fuel injectors. Dave at Nippon said codes were supposed to go away after 100 miles but did not. Brought it to Lake Havasu City AZ shop for complete plenum leak in the upper manifold they said. They also *said* they found an o-ring was missing in one injector. That $3000 fix ended with no more of the previous codes but now got a Catalytic Convert error code which they said was caused by the leaky injector, so I replaced that myself with AP Eastern Y-pipe Catalytic Converter from Rockauto.

When I was bolting together the right, passenger side cata to the front exhaust pipe connected to the exhaust manifold it swayed and budged because I did not tighten the mid bolt hangar to the exhaust. I instantly regretted it and felt shocked that it did that.

So now even though the cata system is tight, the original error codes are back as I'm afraid I sheared or cracked the exhaust manifold or front pipe because now I hear a loud clicking near the valve cover.

I don't smell much if any exhaust but maybe. The Montero needs to be pumped with gas hard to start up now. Must I take down that side of the engine bay, heat shield, EGR, and inspect the manifold? Are there any ODB cues I should look for?
Tuesday, March 18th, 2025 AT 7:04 PM

22 Replies

Tiny
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Oh yeah, the RPM gauge is no longer responding as well since the catalytic converter install.

Here is also the documentation I have for this period although, many hardships occurred with these mechanics, including theft of my premium MAF sensor to be replaced with cheap crap, breaking my airbox, undoing the fuel pump ring so it leaked profusely, keying the Montero. The writing may seem disconnected.
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Tuesday, March 18th, 2025 AT 7:15 PM
Tiny
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Nice work winning the Dakar! It sounds like the connection between the head pipe and exhaust manifold is the problem. There cannot be a leak there or the system will run rich. I would start with new gaskets and do an inspection of the system while it is apart to check for cracks or rust, like I say, there can be no leaks. It seems like you can do the work yourself so please use us to answer any question or guidance you need. Once we get the exhaust straightened out, we can deal with the other issues. The head pipe should not move once connected to the exhaust manifold so the hanger would have nothing to do with it so don't feel bad. Please upload images or a short video of any issues you may find. Please check out the images below where I have marked the gaskets and flange in question.
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Wednesday, March 19th, 2025 AT 11:04 AM
Tiny
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Nice response. Well, it would be good news that it would be only the front pipe gasket and not the exhaust manifold that "peeled away" from the engine block. As I just replaced the catalytic converter with all new seals and bolts and it's running silent with no exhaust smell, super tight install - it would be only the front exhaust pipe to manifold gasket I would be replacing.

I like things perfect and to only do a job once. Would it be advisable to install a brand new front exhaust pipe (9) that's between the manifold and converter along with commiserate gasket or is that overdoing it?

Also, I just noticed that the prior mechanic put a crack in my airbox and replaced premium MAF with Chinese single wire crap which also may account running too rich, but also Cylinder 5 misfire which is right in-line with MAF on right side? Could that also be the cause?

What ODB tests can I run to determine if the cylinder misfire is from the airbox leak, badly matched MAF rather than exhaust leaking?

I should hold off on visually inspecting the manifold and do the front pipe gasket first? It *is* heavily rusted. Can I use a valve clearance gauge set to see if there is a gap in the join between the exhaust manifold and front exhaust pipe to avoid taking it out or just do it? ;)

Trying to save time, it's like every vehicle at the homestead needs major repairs. Working on two motorcycles and wife's GMC all at the same time, it's the worst luck.
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Wednesday, March 19th, 2025 AT 11:43 AM
Tiny
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I'll add pictures after lunch.
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Wednesday, March 19th, 2025 AT 11:43 AM
Tiny
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First set.
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Wednesday, March 19th, 2025 AT 2:30 PM
Tiny
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Second set.
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Wednesday, March 19th, 2025 AT 2:31 PM
Tiny
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Better flashlight.
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Wednesday, March 19th, 2025 AT 2:51 PM
Tiny
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Wow, I just noticed that the last shop not only left a crack open in the putty sealing of the crack that they themselves made in the Airbox, the fasteners are totally broken. There is supposed to be a bar that goes across those broken plastic hold-down crowns.
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Wednesday, March 19th, 2025 AT 2:58 PM
Tiny
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Clarifying that I used "super-tight install" as a euphemism. Everything is torqued to spec at 33lbf except whatever the odd sets of bolts were, but that too. I have every possible manual for the Montero that exists.
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Wednesday, March 19th, 2025 AT 4:42 PM
Tiny
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Thanks for the images, the exhaust system looks okay, I don't think the damage to the air box will affect the way the engine is running. I think it would be best if we do a compression test for #5 to see if the engine is okay. Please go over this guide, also can you please upload a short video of the engine idling from under the hood?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

If you have a scanner you can read the fuel trims to see if the computer is giving fuel or trying to take it away. If the compression is good let me know the readings so we can go from there, also when the spark plug unload an image of it so I can see the color.

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Friday, March 21st, 2025 AT 8:38 AM
Tiny
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Ok, I'll send video and compression test results tomorrow, but this Airbox is more damaged that I thought. **All** tabs and skirts are missing and the hole pictured bottom right extends past the MAF faceplate.
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Friday, March 21st, 2025 AT 12:53 PM
Tiny
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I'm going to plastic bond the airbox as best I can and test it like that tomorrow. I doubt the odb2 scans will come up right with a hole in it?

Another thing that might be a clue is when I first put the dual catalytic converter pipe in it leaked at the muffler/driver side and gave catalytic converter code again. I tightened the spring bolts one turn which sealed the leak and *then* got the Cylinder misfire and running too rich codes while the cata code disappeared.
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Friday, March 21st, 2025 AT 2:14 PM
Tiny
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The damage to the air box should not trigger a check engine light. How does the engine seem to run, if okay you might want to try just clearing the codes to see if it comes back.
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Saturday, March 22nd, 2025 AT 10:48 AM
Tiny
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The engine runs really rough with the Cylinder 5 misfire and of course has the clicking sound coming from the valve cover it seems. I glued the Airbox even more today because the MAF bolt housing is disintegrating, refusing to hold the MAF sensor closely.

So I'll wait for that to complete in order to get reliable fuel trim odb2 readings as you said, that was a good idea while on the same day testing the compression.

I'll get a stethoscope on the valve, fuel injector areas so you can hear that too.
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Saturday, March 22nd, 2025 AT 4:26 PM
Tiny
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Okay, it seems like the camshaft lobe has worn down, I would remove the valve cover on the #5 cylinder side to check for wear. To confirm, the cylinder has compression, fuel and spark correct?
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Sunday, March 23rd, 2025 AT 9:40 AM
Tiny
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I assume so since the vehicle does run, but rough. Thing is when doing any of your suggested tests or fixes for the 2005 Mitsubishi Montero, you have the take the entire intake plenum and perhaps lower plenum off, it's a job.

So logically to compression test, I'd have to remove the intake manifold, remove the spark plugs, then reassemble the manifold, that's a lot of work. I think that if I'm in there that far I might as well check the lifters, valves, spark plugs, and cam.

A thing I can do easily is get the stethoscope on the Cylinder 5 Injector, I'll do that soon.

I'm not really too worried about compression because the lower block is actually a NEW "ES Engines" (Chatsworth CA, I think now defunct) Lower Block.

Screenshots are from the Mitsubishi Dealer Service Manual.
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Sunday, March 23rd, 2025 AT 12:39 PM
Tiny
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Screenshots again, encountered a website error.
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Sunday, March 23rd, 2025 AT 12:40 PM
Tiny
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Can't upload screenshots, encountered a website error>

Incorrect string value: ' xE2 x80 xAFPM.' for column `app_2carpros_production`.`Assets`.`Attachment_file_name` at row 1
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Sunday, March 23rd, 2025 AT 12:41 PM
Tiny
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Trying smaller photos
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Sunday, March 23rd, 2025 AT 12:44 PM
Tiny
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So help me out on the RPM sensor thing, that has got to be a big clue. It failed right after there was no leak in the catalytic converter y-pipe.

Is it the camshaft position sensor that does RPM? Cylinder 5 is right across from where that sensor is, toward the interior cabin, back of engine.
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Sunday, March 23rd, 2025 AT 1:38 PM

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