Can a bad Caliber, warped rotor, stuck or jamming slide pins cause a rumble and skipping without hitting the brakes?

Cool, that's what I did. I tighten spin loosen spin tighten spin ect. Then I hand tighten as much as I can. I didn't back off when drag was felt. I can do that when the sun comes up. Since I replaced the front brakes, rotors and hubs I can give you a better idea of what's happening. Unfortunately, it didn't fix my concerns all the way it's still doing it but not as bad. It feels like when the ABS brakes lock up and crunch, rough spot on the brake pads and rumble strip at low speeds. It happens when accelerating for most part on occasion when breaking. Sometimes it happens when hitting a bump or pothole. It's a mix of all three. Can it be my rear wheel bearings? The vibration is just transferred to the front. Is it possible my e-brake bracket or cable is causing it not to disengage completely or something along those line? Can it be the rear axle is going bad? What do you think it can be? I'm really exhausted, and my body is really hurting. I haven't really had a day off to rest in a month and it's taking its toll on me. Any ideas to help isolate the issue?

I have to tighten it more. Those ways didn't work, it had a little too much play. It appears you have to hand tighten then use wrench to turn till snug then back it off a few mm. My side pins keep sticking on me. I cleaned and lubed two times and they still stick. I hope the 3rd time is a charm.

I'm going to finish it tomorrow or the following day. I'm not driving that much so I'm not worried. I'm going to take my car to a shop near my house. I think it's best to have an actual mechanic check the car over.

I haven't taken the car to shop yet. I'm convinced it's either my slide pins or calibers cause the problems. I was at a stop sign holding down brake pedal and when I lifted foot, it clucked. Then I lifted my foot, but this time I pressed the brake pedal down slightly and it clunked. When I first did brakes, I cleaned the slide pins and lubed them but three of them had issues after. One was stuck completely and two were sticking bad. Cleaned and lubed again but they still are sticking. I'm going to have to really clean the slot and pins, add a lot more lube. I'm really starting to think it's the cause since the issue is intermittent and car feel like it has drag.

I did the outer tie rod today, It was really bad and most likely would of failed soon. It was really hot today and I forgot to take the photos of the slides and other components. Monday I'll try to do it.

Definitely not in good shape.

I used to love the heat till I had a heat stroke when I was 20. That was 14 years ago and until feel the effects from it, luckily, it's nowhere near as bad as it was. That tie rod end it worse in person, it has 4 mm up and downplay and it opened 3mm along the joint. Just 1 mm more it would sperate completely. It gave me hell the lock nut was completely seized and the outer and inner were seized together as well. It took map gas, a can of pb blaster and 2 hours to finally break free and remove.

Both outer tie rods are done now. The inners on both sides aren't the greatest but they still have a little more life. When the car was jacked up, I noticed my left lower ball joint was bad and leaking. I already knew that was bad and needed replacement. Before I do that, I want to find out what's causing that grinding, skipping, and binding issue. I really wish I could give an exact explanation. I found an old cell phone, I'm going to zip, tie it to each wheel and record. Maybe I can find the issue or at least narrow it down to a location. I'll try to get the photos of slide pins later today.

So, I pulled the slides, and the two bottoms were completely jammed I had to remove using a screwdriver and a lot of force. The rubber or ring on both expanded causing them to lock up. I did remove the o rings, lubed everything up and now the bottoms move freely. The tops aren't nearly as bad, but they aren't moving freely like they should. I cleaned, lubed and installed. I only took it around the block, and it does seem a lot better. It does still do it but it a lot better. I'm going to do the rears sometime this week and will remove the fronts again and add a little more lube. I used the cell phone trick a few times, it actually works. I was working on this older woman's car and she was told her transmission is bad. The car was shaking and when she would accurate the car would stop accelerating then reengage. It would also jump and make a very loud bang noise when it happened. I used my old phone to take video and audio and when I took on test drive, I was able to reproduce everything. I watched the video, and it wasn't the transmission it was the CV axles. When you give it gas both start to separate and spin freely in the boot. Let off gas they return to normal. She only had to buy two axles instead of a transmission.

It started doing again a little worse than before. Tomorrow I'll take pictures of everything. Now it's starting to do something new. Right before you come to stop it makes grrrr and errr noise and you can feel it also.

Video 1 driver side. Rumble, grinding binding. Most notable Times. 1:16 to 1:25.1:32 to 1:47.2:05 to 2:19 to 2:24. 2:29 to 2:34.2:43 to 2:46. Not all the noise is wind noise some of it is actually the noise.

Video 2 passenger side. Rumble, grinding binding. Most notable Times. 0:50 to 0:54.1:08 to 1:13. 1:28 to 1:36.1:48 to 1:52.2.00 to 2:08.2:13 to 2:19. 2:27 to 2:32. When accelerating and picking up speed the wind noise isn't all wind noise. That rumbling, grinding is my main concern. It feels like it's binding as well. You can feel in pedals and seat.