Can a bad caliber, warped rotor, stuck or jamming slide pins cause a rumble and skipping without hitting the brakes?

Sorry for the poor English I wrote that in haste. Can a bad caliber, warped rotor, stuck or jamming slide pins cause a rumble and skipping without hitting the brakes? It first started a few days ago when I changed my compressor for my Airmatic. It didn't do it when I jacked car up and replaced part. But it did start afterwards, I'm lost don't know what to check first. I don't know how the car is fine one second then does this after. I checked all my work, and nothing is rubbing.

I was so fixated on the left side of car I never checked the right. It's obvious my right-side wheel bearing is shot and most likely the cause of my issues. Do you think this can cause my issues based on everything I said? When you spin the wheel, you can hear the bearing making clicking noise followed by a skip.

Hi,

Certainly, if all that play is from the bearing, it needs to be replaced. However, did you confirm there isn't an inner tie rod issue? When you wiggled the wheel, I see the outer tie rod appears tight. When you do this, is the driver's side tire moving as well?

You asked about the brake caliper. If it is applying pressure on the brake rotor, it will cause the rotor to overheat. That can cause what you are experiencing as well. I've actually seen them slowly apply the brake until the wheel was locked. However, if the brake is the cause, you should notice excessive heat from the affected wheel. Also, you would likely smell the brake pads from being overheated.

So, if that play is the bearing, yes, replace and adjust it.

I attached the directions for the removal and replacement of the bearing below. Take a look through them and let me know if this helps and if you did the driver's side in this manner.

Take care and let me know.

Joe

See pics below.

The photo is somewhat wrong. My hub has two bearings and plate, or shield is connected to the knuckle not hub. I just remembered something in the past I only had this rumble/slight grinding sensation come from front of car when hitting pothole or bump then it would go away. Sometimes it wouldn't happen for days or weeks. Over time I had a slight shake that developed and got slightly worse as time went on. It mostly happened at 60 to 65 and up. But nothing at lower speeds until a few days ago. I replaced my compressor on the left side of car for my Airmatic. I had the car jacked up for 4 hours since I had to run out. I'm thinking the pressure on the right side from being jacked up did something to an already failing bearing. I didn't have any of these current issues till that exact second. Yes, I checked everything over and nothing is rubbing, and everything is tight.

Did you have the air ride turned off when it was lifted? I know some models require it to be manually turned off to prevent damage. But that wouldn't happen to the wheel bearing.

Are you confident that the play in the video is from the wheel bearing?

Let me know.

Joe

Mine doesn't have to be turned off. I don't know if that what's wrong, but I'm positive the wheel bearing is shot. I do know my lower ball joint and outer tie ride are worn and make a little noise. But that is when turning only. The issue I'm worry about almost feels like brake pads that are worn all the down and bad CV and a skipping bearing. That is the best example I can give after driving today. it almost always happens in straight line. It also happens when you let off gas and when you accelerate. Sometimes it will only happen once you hit above 20 MPH. It's random when it happens. It doesn't get much worse with speed till 60. The car was completely fine, I replaced the compressor then it started to it. It's just so weird. I'm not new to cars at all. I know how to work on them. I have done it a million times, i checked my work, all of it. I'm just lost on this one.

About the whole braking and start thing. I you want to play it safe they say to disconnect the SDC harness, so you don't throw a red warning. But you don't need start itself to do it. You can also disconnect the 2 batteries but if you forget to shut off lights and radio and unplug anything in cigarette lighter, make sure all doors are closed, keys is out of car and you disconnect terminals in proper order and install you will burn out the rear Sam, front Sam and other electronics. The safest route is to close doors and unplug SDC.

Confirmed wheel bearing.

Hi,

It certainly sounds bad. LOL Do me a favor. Once you get the bearing replaced, let me know how much play is still in the steering.

Take care,

Joe

So, I replaced the bearing, and it is better. It still does it a little, but it sounds more like a brake issue now than anything else. compared to how it was it's better. I have a tie rod for the right side, so I'll be doing that today as well. I still have a little in wheel. That is from that outer tie rod. The steering itself feels fine.

Hi,

I'm glad to hear that. Let me know if the tie rod eliminates the remainder of the play. I'm interested in knowing.

Take care,

Joe

So, I'm replacing both my hubs with bearings, races and seal prepressed. Rotors, pads and both outer tie rods. I got a really good deal through a friend for the parts. I decided to do it since my rotors do have a couple gouges and are developing a slight lip. I wasn't able to Remove 3 of the 4 races even with press. They are scuffed plus the hubs are seized in the rotor. I cannot remove it without damaging one or the other. I got all the parts for 175 so I figured I'll just get new pads tie rods and hubs, so I know everything is perfect. The parts car commonly used outside of Mercedes and specialty shops and they won't throw codes as they are matched OEM. I also bought the hub assembly since my right side seal failed. The spring in the inner seal broke and bearing ate it. I got the spring out but I'm not sure how much damage was done if any. Once I replace the tie rods, I'll let you know what happens. I have to wait for my friend to return my Dremel before I do it, just in case I have cut it off if it free spins.

Here is one of the old inner bearings. There is definitely wear on inside and the grease is definitely not good.

Hi,

That doesn't look good. LOL As far as the future work you plan to do is concerned, let me know if there is anything I can do to help. Actually, I'm glad to hear you are replacing everything. The play that I saw in your video worried me. LOL

Also, thank you for the update. I appreciate it and look forward to hearing the outcome.

Take care,

Joe

Yeah, when it comes to breaks and or suspension components, I don't like to put it off. I had a few close calls in past that gave me a new perspective.

I'll definitely let you know. There is a few things I might need help with.

Hi,

I appreciate it. Let me know what I can do to help.

Take care of yourself,

Joe

So, I need your help with the lock nut. I checked online and other sources of information and it's all conflicting. I don't have a tilt gauge to accurately tighten lock nut for wheel bearing. Some say to hand tighten and that's it. Other day hand tighten use wrench do a 1/4 turn and back off slightly. Some say to do a 1/2 turn and 1/4 back. What do you think I should do? I hand tighten and went around the block. I was going to turn it few mm more with wrench. What do you think my best bet is and which people you think are most accurate?

This is one reason why I decided to do the rotors and pads. Also, hubs are seized in rotors. My side pins were also dry and stuck like crazy. That explains the clunk and banging sound when letting off brakes.

When I do it, I snug it, spin the rotor, and re-snug it until it is somewhat tight. At that point, i spin it again and normally feel a bit of drag on the rotor. Then I back it off until the drag is basically gone. There really isn't a specific direction for how far to back it off. You want it to the point where there is no drag and no play between the bearing and hub.

The tightening multiple times is done to make sure it is fully seated.

Let me know if that helps. And certainly, the brake rotors look bad.

Take care,

Joe

Cool, that's what I did. I tighten spin loosen spin tighten spin ect. Then I hand tighten as much as I can. I didn't back off when drag was felt. I can do that when the sun comes up. Since I replaced the front brakes, rotors and hubs i can give you a better idea of what's happening. Unfortunately, it didn't fix my concerns all the way it's still doing it but not as bad. It feels like when the ABS brakes lock up and crunch, rough spot on the brake pads and rumble strip at low speeds. It happens when accelerating for most part on occasion when breaking. Sometimes it happens when hitting a bump or pothole. It's a mix of all three. Can it be my rear wheel bearings? The vibration is just transferred to the front. Is it possible my e-brake bracket or cable is causing it not to disengage completely or something along those line? Can it be the rear axle is going bad? What do you think it can be? I'm really exhausted, and my body is really hurting. I haven't really had a day off to rest in a month and it's taking its toll on me. Any ideas to help isolate the issue?

I have to tighten it more. Those ways didn't work, it had a little too much play. It appears you have to hand tighten then use wrench to turn till snug then back it off a few mm. My side pins keep sticking on me. I cleaned and lubed two times and they still stick. I hope the 3rd time is a charm.

Hi,

It's a good idea to turn the rotor when slowly tightening the bearing. That way it seats properly. Keep in mind that you want no play and no drag. If there is a drag, it will be hardly noticeable.

Let me know how it goes.

Joe

I'm going to finish it tomorrow or the following day. I'm not driving that much so I'm not worried. I'm going to take my car to a shop near my house. I think it's best to have an actual mechanic check the car over.

Hi,

Sounds like a plan. Let me know how things turn out for you.

Take care,

Joe

I haven't taken the car to shop yet. I'm convinced it's either my slide pins or calibers cause the problems. I was at a stop sign holding down brake pedal and when I lifted foot, it clucked. Then i lifted my foot, but this time I pressed the brake pedal down slightly and it clunked. When I first did brakes, I cleaned the slide pins and lubed them but three of them had issues after. One was stuck completely and two were sticking bad. Cleaned and lubed again but they still are sticking. I'm going to have to really clean the slot and pins, add a lot more lube. I'm really starting to think it's the cause since the issue is intermittent and car feel like it has drag.

Hi,

Absolutely, that sounds like the issue. If the brakes hang up, the rotors get really hot. Interestingly, the hotter they get causes the brake fluid to expand applying more pressure on the pads. That could be the cause of everything.

Do me a favor. When you have it apart, take a few pics of the slides and upload them for me to see. Also, when I do these, I take an ignition file (which is very fine) and file away dirt, rust, or whatever is on the parts. Try that. Keep in mind, if they are hanging up after you do this, I would replace them.

Also, the floating caliper support needs to be cleaned as well (pic 1). I use a small round file to clean debris out of them as well.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have questions

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

I did the outer tie rod today, It was really bad and most likely would of failed soon. It was really hot today and I forgot to take the photos of the slides and other components. Monday I'll try to do it.

Definitely not in good shape.

Hi,

Wow! That thing is done. I'm glad you found it. That could have caused an accident if it would have come apart.

As far as the slides, I look forward to seeing the pics. I will watch for them.

Take care and stay cool. It was hot here today as well and tomorrow it's to be worse. I can't complain. I love hot weather. LOL

Take care,

Joe

I used to love the heat till I had a heat stroke when I was 20. That was 14 years ago and until feel the effects from it, luckily, it's nowhere near as bad as it was. That tie rod end it worse in person, it has 4 mm up and downplay and it opened 3mm along the joint. Just 1 mm more it would sperate completely. It gave me hell the lock nut was completely seized and the outer and inner were seized together as well. It took map gas, a can of pb blaster and 2 hours to finally break free and remove.

Hi,

You are so lucky it didn't fall apart. Wow! As far as removing it is concerned, I totally understand. I've actually had to burn the nut of some. LOL Nothing is ever easy.

I hope the other tie rods are in good condition. Let me know if I can help in any way.

Take care,

Joe

Both outer tie rods are done now. The inners on both sides aren't the greatest but they still have a little more life. When the car was jacked up, I noticed my left lower ball joint was bad and leaking. I already knew that was bad and needed replacement. Before I do that, I want to find out what's causing that grinding, skipping, and binding issue. I really wish I could give an exact explanation. I found an old cell phone, I'm going to zip, tie it to each wheel and record. Maybe I can find the issue or at least narrow it down to a location. I'll try to get the photos of slide pins later today.

Hi,

What an ingenious idea with the phone. If it's old, it won't matter if it gets damaged. I like how you think!!!

As far as the drag and noise, I have a feeling it deals with the brakes. Let me know how things turn out with the caliper slides.

Also, when you have the caliper off, make sure the pads are able to move easily. I can't tell you how many times I find the caliper mount rusts and the aluminum hardware then expands causing the pads to stick.

Let me know the results.

Take care,

Joe

So, I pulled the slides, and the two bottoms were completely jammed I had to remove using a screwdriver and a lot of force. The rubber or ring on both expanded causing them to lock up. I did remove the o rings, lubed everything up and now the bottoms move freely. The tops aren't nearly as bad, but they aren't moving freely like they should. I cleaned, lubed and installed. I only took it around the block, and it does seem a lot better. It does still do it but it a lot better. I'm going to do the rears sometime this week and will remove the fronts again and add a little more lube. I used the cell phone trick a few times, it actually works. I was working on this older woman's car and she was told her transmission is bad. The car was shaking and when she would accurate the car would stop accelerating then reengage. It would also jump and make a very loud bang noise when it happened. I used my old phone to take video and audio and when I took on test drive, I was able to reproduce everything. I watched the video, and it wasn't the transmission it was the CV axles. When you give it gas both start to separate and spin freely in the boot. Let off gas they return to normal. She only had to buy two axles instead of a transmission.

Hi,

LOL, I love that idea. I suspect she was happy. LOL

As far as your vehicle is concerned, let me know what you find on the rear. Take a few pics of what you find. I'm interested in seeing what you're dealing with.

Take care,

Joe

It started doing again a little worse than before. Tomorrow I'll take pictures of everything. Now it's starting to do something new. Right before you come to stop it makes grrrr and errr noise and you can feel it also.

Is the sound coming from the front? Let me know. Also, pics and videos with audio would be great. I would like to hear what you are describing. Something isn't going together properly or needs to be replaced.

Let me know.

Joe

Video 1 driver side. Rumble, grinding binding. Most notable Times. 1:16 to 1:25...1:32 to 1:47......2:05 to 2:19 to 2:24.... 2:29 to 2:34....2:43 to 2:46. Not all the noise is wind noise some of it is actually the noise.

Video 2 passenger side. Rumble, grinding binding. Most notable Times. 0:50 to 0:54....1:08 to 1:13...... 1:28 to 1:36.....1:48 to 1:52......2.00 to 2:08.....2:13 to 2:19...... 2:27 to 2:32.. When accelerating and picking up speed the wind noise isn't all wind noise. That rumbling, grinding is my main concern. It feels like it's binding as well. You can feel in pedals and seat.