Vehicle shaking

Tiny
SNOOK187
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  • 2005 CHEVROLET MALIBU
  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 162,000 MILES
Hi! First time posting.
I was driving one day and all of a sudden the vehicle started to shake violently at around 45 to 50 mph. I checked the tie rods, control arms, struts, ball joint, wheel hub, and it has semi new tires all the way around and the motor mounts are good. I am suspecting play in the inner CV axle, but I don't know where else to look. Any information will be greatly appreciate it.
Sunday, March 22nd, 2020 AT 3:37 PM

29 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Where did you feel the shaking? Was it in the steering wheel or did it feel more in the seat?

I suspect by what you were inspecting that it was in the steering wheel which means you are on the right path.

If you can, would you provide more detail on how you checked the suspension components? Some people just look at them or try to move them around but don't actually lift the vehicle and inspect them properly. Which means we have to ask.

Lastly a bent or broken CV axle could cause a sudden issue like this but normally they get worse over time so unless it has been making noise and clicking that you ignored, I am not sure the CV axle is the issue. We can't rule it out but is down the list.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-cv-axle-joint

Let me know this info and we can go from there. Thanks
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Sunday, March 22nd, 2020 AT 4:14 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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For it to be a sudden change the first thing I would check are the tires. It is easy for the modern stick on weights or the older clip on type to come loose and off. Depending on the weight amount it can cause a lot of motion. Next would be to determine if it's front or rear related. Where do you feel the shaking the most? Steering wheel or seat? Seat usually means it is in the chassis of the vehicle while a shaking felt through the steering means front end components? Any pot holes or curbs or related that may have been hit before it started? Is the check engine light on or flashing? How about a quick test, get to the speed it shakes at, now shift into neutral and let off the throttle, still shaking? What does it do if you lightly apply the brakes while it is shaking?
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Sunday, March 22nd, 2020 AT 4:16 PM
Tiny
SNOOK187
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It feels like the whole entire car is about to fall apart. It's mainly coming from the front end. All weights on all four tires are still attached. No code. I attempted to recreate the symptoms today at the same speed of 45 to 50 no shake or wobble. So I just kept driving until the symptoms came back the faster I go the worse it gets.
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Sunday, March 22nd, 2020 AT 6:02 PM
Tiny
SNOOK187
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And I also go through the check list of visually inspecting it and physically inspecting it the whole side to side up and down primer underneath. The tire jacking up the car checking for play in any component. Good brakes, good rotor. There is a little play in the CV axle up and down towards the inner, but I don't know if it's supposed to be like that or not. But thanks guys for helping I really appreciate it.
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Sunday, March 22nd, 2020 AT 6:12 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Is the play in the CV in the joint or is it in the stub that enters the transmission? In the joint itself there should be no play because of it's design. The transmission output bushing could be worn and that would allow a tiny amount of play where the stub shaft attaches. Anything more than a few thousands of play isn't good and it could result in the joint binding. Do you hear any popping or snapping or is it quiet? If you move the steering wheel as it happens do you feel a vibration? How about in reverse in a parking lot with the wheel against the lock on each side? Noise then?
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Sunday, March 22nd, 2020 AT 6:20 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Okay. Steve is correct that if you hit a pot hole or something that this seems like a tire/wheel. Do you have a spare tire? Hopefully not a doughnut but a full size spare. If you do, can you swap that in the left front, right front, then the same on the rear and drive with it on each position? I am curious to see if it goes away or at least lessens when a different tire on there. If it makes no difference, then we know if it is the suspension or hub/rotor or something like this.

We just need to start eliminating things so that we can figure out where it is coming from. Thanks
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Sunday, March 22nd, 2020 AT 6:24 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Just read Steve's reply as we can't read them when typing our own. Only after we submit them and the screen is refreshed do we see the other updates. His is a good idea. Try his first before swapping a spare on there.
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Sunday, March 22nd, 2020 AT 6:26 PM
Tiny
SNOOK187
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There is no popping noise from lock to lock and it feels like whatever is happening needs to warm up first before it shows its ugly head. But the up and down play is closer to the stub that inserts into the transmission. I'm guessing that's a bad thing?
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Sunday, March 22nd, 2020 AT 6:30 PM
Tiny
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So we need to test that theory of it warming up so see if when in the first thing in the morning if you can get up to the speed it does it and see how long it takes to start.

If it truly is temp related that would point more to tires or hub/rotor issues. The suspension components are not really effected by temperature because they don't get that hot.

At that point if it is possible to swap in the spare tire to see when/if it gets better.
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Monday, March 23rd, 2020 AT 9:02 AM
Tiny
SNOOK187
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It does not shake right off the bat I have to drive around a little bit before it begins. I can reach speeds between the 45 and 60 range without any problem in the beginning when I first take off it will take a minute then it will slowly start to shake. I'm going to try to get a video of what I am experiencing to try to help diagnose the problem.
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Monday, March 23rd, 2020 AT 12:37 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Okay. The video will help. When you get back from the taking the video, run your hand over the tread and sidewalls of each tire and just make sure there are no issues. Clearly it should feel smooth and even all the way around.
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Monday, March 23rd, 2020 AT 2:15 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Could you give an idea of the time you can drive without it shaking? A minute, 5 minutes or such. What does it do if you shift gears when it wants to shake, say it is shaking and you shift it to a lower gear other than drive so the engine rpm's go higher but at the same road speed?
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Monday, March 23rd, 2020 AT 4:25 PM
Tiny
SNOOK187
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10 to 15 minutes before it starts shaking too bad. I wasn't able to get it until full speed when the incident happened because I was in a residential area, but you can hear the noise that it's making closer to the end of the video.
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Monday, March 23rd, 2020 AT 5:24 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Can you try attaching the video again because it didn't attach? Thanks for getting it. I am sure it will help us.
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Monday, March 23rd, 2020 AT 5:30 PM
Tiny
SNOOK187
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It's still loading on my end.
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Monday, March 23rd, 2020 AT 5:31 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Okay. Just let us know when it posts. Thanks
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Monday, March 23rd, 2020 AT 5:48 PM
Tiny
SNOOK187
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Where's that at image or video? I can see my video there is it not showing up for you guys?
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Monday, March 23rd, 2020 AT 6:13 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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That video is a great help. Clearly it is a rotational noise so that means it is the axle, hub/rotor, or tire. I am putting my money on the tires. So that means the only what we are going to figure this out is start making a change. Since you stated it sounds like it is coming from the front left, either put a spare (if you have one ) on that spot or rotate the tires from the front to rear and see if the noise seems to move to the rear.
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Tuesday, March 24th, 2020 AT 6:28 AM
Tiny
SNOOK187
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So I rotated the front tires for the back it made no difference and the sound or the shaking. Put the car up on jack stands to remove front tires driver side no problem passenger side rim too hot to touch.
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Tuesday, March 24th, 2020 AT 10:30 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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That sounds like a bad caliper or more likely a bad brake line. The rubber lines can fail internally and act like a check valve. Then you apply the brake and they don't release. Now as you drive the brake starts to heat up and the heat causes the brake fluid to expand and cause the brakes to attempt to apply. I would start by seeing if you can use a bar to move the brake caliper and push the piston back in. If it won't move, loosen the bleeder and try again. If it now moves easily it is likely the hose. If it doesn't then it's either the caliper or the slide pins.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-front-brake-pads-and-rotors-fwd
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Tuesday, March 24th, 2020 AT 11:44 AM

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