it seems like the engine is misfiring?

It is possible you need a tune up but it could be a fuel injector as well we should run the codes to see what's going on first.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-tune-up-a-car-engine

Please run down these guides and report back.

I went to advanced auto parts they put it on the diagnostic computer and it was saying that cylinder one was misfiring due to a bad coil. I replaced the coil with a ford motocraft coil and put in all new spark plugs (platinum) after that I cleared the codes by disconnecting the battery and started it. The engine is still misfiring I am thinking what next?

Diagnostic fault codes never say to replace parts or that they're bad. Without knowing the exact code number I can't help with a plan of attack, but if you had a misfire code, you need fuel, spark, and compression. One of those things has to be missing. A quick trick to identifying the likely suspect is to switch the injectors between the misfiring cylinder and one other one, and the ignition coils between the misfiring cylinder and a different one. For example, switch the injector from cylinder two, and the coil from cylinder three. Erase the code, drive it, and see which code sets next. If cylinder two is misfiring now, suspect the injector. If it's still cylinder one, look at compression, worn camshaft lobes, and things like that.

Thanks for your response...I did change the coil pack on that cylinder and it was melted smelled real nice too....my car is a Taurus X eddie baurer edition. When I changed the plugs cause it was over 100k none of the other coils were melted...

Try swapping two injectors.

Gotta run now because my 'puter battery is dying. I'll check back later to see if you solved the problem.

change spark plugs in a 07 ford taurus ,P0303, Cylinder 3 misfire

If still a miss fire check coil if coil over plug, or ignition lead and cap, check that the injector has pulse and it is firing, check for a vacuum leak around the cylinder, start here.

mark (mhpautos)

I have a 2006 Ford Taurus 3.0 V6. My check engine light came on and I got it scanned at the parts store. The reading was a misfire.(It was not noticable.) Since my car has 95,000 miles on the original plugs and wires I assumed that was the problem. I changed both items and now there is a much larger misfire. I then changed the coil pack as the next step and the misfire just seems to be getting worse. I properly gapped all the plugs and the wires are not crossed and are going to the correct cyclinders.

What is the misfire code? P0300?????

I didn't get the code. I just saw that is said misfire. I haven't let it run for more than 5 minutes now and the check engine light hasn't returned.

Run the car @ idle. Start pulling ignition wires one at a time to see which cylinder is not firing. Start hear

i have the same problem. after pulling ignition wire how will you know which cylinder is not firing?

Because the engine wont change when you get the cylinder that is not working.

car has already been to dealer service department, where, since they couldn't find anything wrong, they "serviced" the transmission (replaced fluid). Car lurches, jerks, etc. on open highway at 55mph or faster, also does this at lower speeds. Tachometer jumps slightly when "jerk" takes place. It doesn't do this all the time. But it's becoming more frequent.

This sounds like an ignition problem. The jumping tach is a good clue. The possibilities are EDIS module, crank position sensor, or cam position sensor. One of these is giving erratic signals that cause the car to jerk and the tach to jump. Before replacing parts, though I would check all of the related connectors for corrosion or loose contacts. Also, check the harness for any chafing that may cause an intermittent shorting to ground.

Hi my sister has a 2006 Ford Taurus SES, 3 different times the odometer and speedometer start to go haywire, when they go back to zero the car then jerks forward then the car shuts off. she has had a diagnostics done on this car but they say they cant find anything wrong. at first they told her it was her breaks so they flushed the brake line, checked her breaks and tightened the shock springs. but the issue continues.

When we start the car and press on the brake to put it in gear the entire car jerks. We can also hear a weird ticking sound that might be coming from the transmission. It has jerks while we were driving but the main issue is when the car is at a stand still and we press on the brake.

Sounds as if you have a vacuum leak at the brake booster, to check this, pull the vacuum line from the booster or the manifold which ever you fine easier and block the port, run the engine and press the brake, if the problem is solved, you will have a faulty booster,

car misfires under load. had a diagnostic check & engine code said #3 cylinder misfiring.
what steps do we take now? does the intake have to be removed to get to coil pack & sparkplug?

#3 is the last plug in back near the driver, you must remove the upper intake manifold to access the coil on plugs, When you do get in there you might find a torn boot.

Bought car brand new in 2004 - never a problem. Drives fine, then i drove 20 miles 2 days ago, on freeway- engine does a jerk feeling. almost like the car is slipping on ice. Then drives fine for another 20 miles, does it again. then miles later, does it again. starts out slight, then get harder jerk feeling, only last about 3 seconds. no change in performance, no noise... yesterday, took it for oil change, & replace fuel filter & a fuel system clean. Drove fine. Today after driving more than 50 miles, engine on freeway - does a jerk again. Just one time. not while trying to acelerate... Doesnt feel like transmission slipping, no dragging - just a jerk feel - like the car is slipping on ice for a few seconds. but its not ice... could it be a sensor going bad? Check engine light does not come on or any system messages display...

This is a tough one without the check engine light. It sounds like an engine miss, but because it is so temporary, the computer isn't picking up on it. Have you ever had the engine tuned up with plugs, wires...?

These guides will help us find out whats going on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

Please run down these guides and report back. Let me know. Joe

OK - 2 days ago, got a tune up at a lic. facility - Platinum plugs and wires, - their computer dia - showed nothing - then the car jerked 4 times on the way home... at around 38-40 mph the rpm doesnt spike, just dips slightly or not at all. A transmission place stated this is a common issue with a 04 Ford taurus and recommends a complete re-build to fix seals - cost of $2,200. Then drove it yesterday over 100 miles - didnt jerk. Any further ideas? thanks

Ford does have a rep for o-rings and seals in the transmissions getting hard and causing shifting problems. However, before I would pay them that kind of money, there are a lot of products that are designed for this type of problem. I'm not to provide product names because we don't want people to think we work for specific companies. However, if you stop at the local parts store and ask them for a product designed to soften seals and o-rings in a transmission, they will have what you need. I think I had a man once use a product manufacturered by a company called BG and he was very happy with the outcome, but I can say anything about that.

Try that and see if it helps. It should be under 10.00 rather than 2200.

Let me know what you find.
Joe