Engine misfiring I think it could be a coil?

It is possible you need a tune up but it could be a fuel injector as well we should run the codes to see what's going on first.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-tune-up-a-car-engine

Please run down these guides and report back.

It is common for the coil to go out this video will help you fix it

https://youtu.be/iDgXwKA-IIc

Please run down this guide and report back.

Has the check engine light come on? Also, can you tell aprox where the noise is coming from?

Most likely something causing a vacuum leak. Maybe to the EGR or PCV.

Let us know if you have questions in the future.

Joe

You need to have someone who will look at it and not guess. Start with a compression test. Check the plugs, wires, coil and then the injectors. It could also have vacuum leaks that could cause this.
In other words, you need a shop with good techs to point you in the right direction without replacing parts needlessly.

Roy

Hi bcardwell,

Yes, the EGR can cause midfiring at below 2,000 rpm with slight acceleration.

When a code is recorded, the item in question usually requires replacement unless source is from electrical.

Is the problem only occuring during idleing? Or also while driving? If only at idle, try cleaning the Idle air control valve, it's bolted to the throttle body and has a connector on it, two 8mm bolts hold it on. Be careful removing it unless you buy a new gasket! Use gumout to clean it and just a rag, no Gumout in the throttle! Teflon coating can be damaged if you use the wrong cleaning solvent! You may need to replace the IAC!

I'm having trouble with it I guess, this was posted by an old Ford troubleshooter. Try it and see what happens. HELLO! Let me take a stab at this. Relatively cheap test/possible fix. Take it to repair shop and raise it in the air. Remove the shield that covers the bottom of the radiator and a/c condenser. With a bright light. Look up between the rad. And cond. I'm sure you will see what looks like a thin blanket covering the rad. Fins. Have the poor tech create a tool using a 24in metal fuel line and his blow gun. On the blow gun. Remove the OSHA approved restricting tube. Take the fuel line and cut one flare off and remove the flare nut as well. Leave the other flare and nut intact. Flatten and pinch off the cut end. Then use a hacksaw to create a right angle outlet on the cut/crimped end. Only cut 1/3 the way through. Attatch the tube to the blow gun. Yes they are different threads but the metal flare nut will cut new threads. He now has a new money-making tool. Connect to air hose and insert between rad. And cond. Blow first toward the eng. Through the rad. Fins and stand back because stuff will fly. Then have him blow back through the cond. Fins. Once again. Stand back because sand will fly out. Because of the relatively small but concentrated air flow at 100psi this tool will remove your blanket, improve your a/c performance and keep your engine running cooler. What I believe is happening is. Now follow me. It's hot outside. So you run the a/c that creates heat. You are at highway speed more heat but also more cooling airflow being forced through the rad. Fins because of your speed. You start to slow down. Less airflow. The fuel in the fuel rail starts to boil(yes I said boil) your injectors are now getting bubbles instead of fuel. Your engine stumbles and maybe dies. Your engine cools some. It restarts because of no bubbles. You go back to slower driving speeds. Runs good. Print this out for the tech. Don't let them tell you that the rad. Has to come out for proper cleaning. Don't let them use water pressure through the cond. This causes a hard mudpack if you don't already have one. If you do. Spray water up between the rad. And cond. And wait 10mins before using the air tool. If they charge you more than 1hr labor they are ripping you off. Please get back to me with your results

Still no codes? Cleaning the radiator will not hurt. Even if it's not the answer. Make sure the plug on the Crank sensor is on tight. MAP, MAF, and vacumm leaks can also cause your symtoms. Unplug the MAF see if it improves. If it does you can try cleaning the heated wire with alcohol and a q-tip, or replacing it. Check for vacuum leaks with a can of spray gumout, spray around the intake, and vac lines, if the idle changes, you found a leak.