Blower motor

Tim,
Pulled a resistor from a junk yard and replaced the resistor. Same problem (blower motor work on high and low most of the time and cuts off on the 2nd and 3rd speeds. Do you think it is a different problem or possible I pulled a bad resistor from the junk yard?

Tim.
Per your last mail. I think you are looking at the wrong wiring diagram. My blower switch as you are looking at it has its controls displayed like this (Off, L, M1, M2 and High). I think you make be looking at the late model viewed like this (Hi, m2, m1, low and off) vice early model. Unpluged the resistor and motor ran fine on high. However, when I checked the volts with the motor blower on it was less than 1 volt on high. How is that possible? I checked the meter and it is fine. When I checked it on the M2 (the third speed) the voltage actually went up as the fan slowed to a stop! Looking at the correct wiring diagram what wires should I jump to test?

Tim,
What two wires do I need to jump. For example : High to Low, M1 to M2 etc? Not the electrical guy here. The resistor was unpluged but I did not use the fan as a ground. When I wiggle the switch I can sometimes get the fan to kick on but not all the time. I have not jumped the wires because I think you were looking at the wrong diagram. Thanks!

Getting to the switch is a major pain. The Haynes Manual does not correctly show how to do it, I have taken the three screws out of the heater control unit and it will not pull out. I might have to go to the dealer and look at the real manufactor's repair manual. I hate dashes. Thanks for your help.

Tim,
Was the Blower switch. Pain in the rear to get to. You must push up on the switch and pust towards the fire wall to get out. Haynes manual does not give all the steps to get in out. You must remove control plate, radio, glove box and some odds and inn. Very tight space and YOU MUST push up and sldie towrds the fire wall or you will break a clip (I did) but thank God for arrow fletching glue. Thanks Again.