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To Saturntech9. Drivers Side Window Regulator On 04 Pontiac Grand Am Sedan

Tiny
BENSJETS
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 PONTIAC GRAND AM
  • 3.4L
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
Louie. This is a GT Sedan. The front drivers side window regulator has broken somewhere. It has power windows, and the regulator goes down, but you must push the window down by hand. The window will come back up with the regulator, but it comes in a cocked position, and this makes the glass get jammed up and won't allow it to rise all the way. You must use your hands to wiggle the glass into a position so the power regulator can raise it all the way up. I'm guessing the plastic clips that bolt the regulator to the glass has broke. Do you know of any sites that tell/show how to do this procedure? I've found a site that sells a new regulator with motor for about $36.00, which I think is a very good price, especially after checking the prices at Auto Zone and Advance Auto. I also found just the plastic clips for sale too, but for $36.00, I can replace the whole thing if it isn't too hard of a job. I never done this before, but I'm sure I can do the job myself. I just don't want to start it before checking to see if there are any tricks I should know, or if maybe something else has broken I'm not aware of. I told you I'd be contacting you again soon. LOL. Thanks again my friend
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Wednesday, February 5th, 2014 AT 4:34 PM

13 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
Hey there I looked at your window regulator its two pieces connected with cables its like the chevy trucks tahoes etc. The plastic pieces break.I recommend getting the dorman one there life time warranty. They sell themfor about 60 on rock auto dot com plus shipping I have a 5 percent discount code if your interested helps off set the shipping. Once the inner door panel is off its pretty straight forward unbolt the window then slide the window up and unplug the window motor and and unbolt the regulator.I then slide it out when you put the new regulator in make sure the cables between the two pieces are twisted when installing the new regulator.I posted instructions.
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Wednesday, February 5th, 2014 AT 5:15 PM
Tiny
BENSJETS
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  • 64 POSTS
Hello once again my friend. The task does look simple enough, and I'm sure I can do it. Thank you for your input and especially the pictures on how to do the job, I did find several sites on EBAY selling the plastic clips that are on the regulator and bolt to the window, but I also found a sight that says these clips aren't replaceable. A bit confusing to me. Either they can or they can't be replaced. I will try to find this out just to clear things up for myself. The regulator is going up and down or I wouldn't be able to push the window down and then the regulator bringing it back up. I'm sure it's the clips, or the sash clips have come unglued from the window, which would produce the same results. I found a site that sells them too. If I decide to buy a regulator, I will follow your suggestion to buy a Dorman from Rock Auto. I've dealt with them before and was very satisfied. We just had a snow storm, followed by an ice storm, and they are calling for more snow over the week end. Being I'm doing this in my driveway, it will have to wait till "Mother Nature" allows me to do so. I will keep you informed. Again, thank you for all your help. Take care.
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Thursday, February 6th, 2014 AT 6:46 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
Your welcome I meant to say make sure the cables between the two parts of the window regulator arent twisted.
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Thursday, February 6th, 2014 AT 7:54 AM
Tiny
BENSJETS
  • MEMBER
  • 64 POSTS
To Saturntech9. Hello my friend. I finally was able to look at my window regulator. I found that both sash clips came unglued, and one of the guide clips had broken. I found several places on E-BAY that sell both at a cheap price. I tried Advance Auto, Auto Zone and Napa. All three are asking a terrible high price. I will be ordering on line. I can wait. My question for today is: What would be a good product to use to reglue the sash clips back on, and what should I use to clean the stuff off that GM used to originally glue them on? Do you think finger nail polish remover would do the trick to clean it off, or do you suggest something else? It has really turned very hard, whatever they used. I've thought of using the glue that holds the metal piece onto the windshield for the rear view mirror, but I'm sure there must be something better then that to use. I'm hoping they sell something at one of the auto parts stores, or maybe Lowes or Home Depot. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. As always, hope you and yours are well.
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Wednesday, February 19th, 2014 AT 1:49 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
Try some jb weld epoxy I would just glue dont worry about the residue.
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Wednesday, February 19th, 2014 AT 9:38 PM
Tiny
BENSJETS
  • MEMBER
  • 64 POSTS
I got the JB Weld epoxy and two new clips from Advance Auto. Payed way too much for the clips, but I want my window back. LOL. Will be doing the job on Saturday. Will let you know how it went. Thanks again.
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Thursday, February 20th, 2014 AT 1:27 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Your welcome keep me posted.
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Thursday, February 20th, 2014 AT 10:46 PM
Tiny
BENSJETS
  • MEMBER
  • 64 POSTS
I couldn't wait till Saturday. The task was a simple one with your guidance. I used the old sash clips though. I couldn't get the new ones on the window without taking the glass out and cleaning the old glue off cause the gap in the new clips were much closer. Guess over the years the old ones spread apart. I'm waiting till tomorrow to use the window so the JB WELD has time to cure. If the old clips don't hold, I'll take the window out and try to clean the old glue off so I can use the new sash clips. The guide clips went on with ease. I'll keep you updated, and thanks again for all your help.
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Friday, February 21st, 2014 AT 8:59 AM
Tiny
BENSJETS
  • MEMBER
  • 64 POSTS
Saturntech9. Well it's Saturday and the window works like a new one thanks to your help and guidance. Now I have another question. No, you aren't rid of me yet. LOL. I have a warranty on this car, and lately I've noticed the transmission acts different when cold then it does when warmed up. The dealership says I'm wrong, but I'd like another opinion. When it's cold, it shifts 3 times. The last shift at 40 miles an hour. When it's warmed up, it shifts 4 times, the last one at 40 miles an hour. The owners manual says it's an automatic overdrive, but my Haynes repair manual says it's a 4 speed automatic. The dealership say they had it rebuilt before I bought it, and says their trans guy states it is the torque convertor locking up, whatever that means. Regardless, why would it shift 3 times when cold and 4 times when warmed up? If I was driving in the city when it is cold, I would have to reach 40 miles an hour to get the 3 shift, which just doesn't seem right to me, especially being at most times you can't drive 40 mph in the city. Again thanks for your help with the window and will be waiting to hear your thoughts on the trans.
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Saturday, February 22nd, 2014 AT 7:43 AM
Tiny
BENSJETS
  • MEMBER
  • 64 POSTS
To Saturntech9. Will you please read my last message to you about my transmission and let me know what you think My window is still working like a new one. Thanks once again and I will be waiting to hear your thoughts about my trans.
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Sunday, February 23rd, 2014 AT 11:52 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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If it was a 4 speed trans which it should be it will shift 3 time into second third and fourth the fourth shift you would feel would have to be the torque convertor locking. The torque convertor is locked using a tcc solenoid.
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Sunday, February 23rd, 2014 AT 2:14 PM
Tiny
BENSJETS
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Ok I think I got it now. The fourth shift isn't really a shift. It's the torque convertor locking up, although the rpms on my tach actually reduce when this happens. I guess it has to be warmed up to shift properly then. When it's cold, it seems to either bypass drive altogether because I have to reach a speed of 40 mph before it will shift, and the rpms are higher at these times. Once it's warm, the fourth shift/convertor locking, brings the rpms to a lower #. Thinking it over, I'm guessing it only goes into fourth gear when it's cold and once warms up, that is when the convertor locks up and in turn the rpms come down. I know nothing about automatic transmissions. Either they work, or they don't. It doesn't show though does it? LOL. Again, thanks for everything.
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Sunday, February 23rd, 2014 AT 5:15 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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When the torque convertor locks the rpms will lock saves gas and yes when it warms up it locks glad I could help.
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Sunday, February 23rd, 2014 AT 6:39 PM

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