Timing belt replacement instructions

Tiny
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Okay, here’s the update: The click is actually on the firewall in a relay box, not down by the fuel tank.
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Saturday, February 6th, 2021 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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It is coming from here.
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Saturday, February 6th, 2021 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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It will have a slight whining noise from the fuel tank if it is working.

If you spray some carburetor cleaner or starter fluid into the air filter, see if it starts and stalls.

Roy
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Saturday, February 6th, 2021 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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The pic is the ABS relay, so disregard that. I’ve removed the back seat to get at the pump and sender, and disconnected the harness. There is only voltage on one pin, and only 9v I bought a relay for the ECM and swapped with existing, and checked ECM fuse. Manual says if no voltage at pump could be PCM and to take to dealer.
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Saturday, February 6th, 2021 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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There will be the voltage at the pump for 2 seconds with the key in the on position. Full voltage when you are cranking.

Did you check it that way?

Did you spray starter fluid in the air filter and see if it starts and stalls?

I attached a diagram and the fuel relay for you to view. It is under the dash. We need to do some testing. The brown wire at the pump needs to have voltage.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Roy
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Saturday, February 6th, 2021 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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Great to have the diagrams.
I located the circuit open relay. First tried just replacing with a replacement relay, and this did nothing. Confirmed continuity form bottom relay socket to brown wire at pump there are 12v at two of the relay sockets (one parallel to the brown wire socket, one perpendicular). The other socket gets 9v when key is turned (not going off after delay) and during starter crank. The starter fluid did not have any effect. Maybe it didn't get past he throttle body, it's quite a long way. I did already verify spark at the front plug.
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Saturday, February 6th, 2021 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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Do you have power on the white wire with the key on?

That is the supply power for the load side or the fuel pump when the relay closes.

I have no idea what you mean with the last portion of your post.

Roy
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Saturday, February 6th, 2021 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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No voltage to either brown or white/black, ever.
9V on pink, which is not in the diagram.
I don't understand the blue. Wiring diagram shows brown becoming blue?

I think disregard my prior claim to have tested the relay sockets. Pretty sure it was not the correct relay. The first picture is the panel under the dash. Based on your 3rd image above, I thought the bottom one in the pic was it. However, looking around, that is a standard relay and the pics I've seen of Toyota Open Circuit relay's are different. The second pic for example.

On the other thing you said: "Did you spray starter fluid in the air filter and see if it starts and stalls?" The answer is yes I tried it, and no, nothing happened when I tried that.

Toyota parts department told me the relay is in the engine bay. I'm going to look now to see if I can find it.
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Saturday, February 6th, 2021 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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Okay, brown goes to the pump itself.

The black wire, which change from white is the power from the EFI relay.

That is the power for the circuit relay.

No, the relay is where I posted it and it is marked. It is inside the car.

Roy
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Saturday, February 6th, 2021 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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I just noticed that a seat heater relay is identified in the third diagram, but this Highlander has no heated seats.
Do you think the pic I uploaded with 3 relays corresponds to your third diagram?
I’m thinking the open circuit relay is quite a bit bigger than the little blue ones.
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Saturday, February 6th, 2021 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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The upper part of the picture you posted showed a blue relay. Is there other slots next to it?

Roy
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Saturday, February 6th, 2021 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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That seems to be it, as the positions are the same and the seat heat relay is missing.

I was able to pop it out and bring it down where I could get a probe on it.

I’ve got 12v on black and on white, nothing on brown or yellow with key on or starter engaged.
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Saturday, February 6th, 2021 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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If I’m reading this right, voltage on yellow will cause the relay to connect black to brown.
Can you find out where yellow is coming from?
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Saturday, February 6th, 2021 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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That goes to the ECM. It grounds a signal to the control side of the relay. When it does, it closes the relay and sends power to the pump.

I attached the picture and there is a fuse that controls power to the relay. Test that fuse for power on both sides.

Roy
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Saturday, February 6th, 2021 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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Yes, fuse has power to both sides, which confirms power to black in the relay.
I used my probe to apply voltage to brown and the pump runs.
So yellow is not getting the grounding signal to close the relay.
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Saturday, February 6th, 2021 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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Yes, and that comes from the ECM.

Roy
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Saturday, February 6th, 2021 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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Is that a dead end then? New or used ECM?
Or else find a key on 12v wire to splice into and replace yellow with that.
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Saturday, February 6th, 2021 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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It is coming to that, yes.

Never a used ECM. Most of the time they will not program to another VIN number.

I am not one for hot wiring. You could do that but I like things that work the way they should.

Roy
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Saturday, February 6th, 2021 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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I hear ya. Is the ECM supposed to ground yellow for the relay to work?

What do you suppose triggers something like this? All I can imagine that involved electrical is the battery disconnect before doing the timing belt and reconnect after.
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Saturday, February 6th, 2021 AT 9:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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It grounds the wire based on strategy in the programming.

That is not something that is adjustable.

Roy
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