Tie tod end replacement question?

Are the tie rod ends loose or failing? Normally that is the only time you replace them, not age or mileage but when they have actual play in them. The rear links are the same way, they are only used to adjust the rear toe and don't normally wear out. However, they are easy to check. Jack up the front (or rear for the back) so you can see and watch the steering. Now have someone try to turn the tire by pushing and pulling on it on the outside. What you are looking for is play in the steering parts 1 2 and 3 So say you can see part 1 not moving but the tire can turn in and out an eighth of an inch, that would be wear that you want to replace the parts for, or if you can see the boot moving but the steering wheel is stationary, that could mean the inner joint 3 is worn. For the rear you do the same thing while watching part 5.
For instance, the front and rear links will be similar to the first picture in this guide. What you are looking for is movement in the upper steering knuckle, without movement in the lower part, which would show wear. If there is none, they are okay.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/tie-rod-end-replacement

The attached are the images for your front and rear suspension. The parts you are talking about are 1,2 and 3 on the front and part 5 in the rear. However, for the front end you might be better off replacing the entire rack rather than the individual joints. That is because the entire rack can be replaced in about 3 hours while replacing both inner tie rod ends alone is a 4-hour job. Replacing the complete rack gets you all new inner and outer parts and boots as well as replacement steering fluid.
Part price wise it is a bit more, but you get all new wear items and pay less in labor overall.
The rack is part # 26044316 and a rebuilt unit runs about $250.00 from Rock Auto (local parts store is going to be more) You then add the price of outer rod ends (about $20.00 each).
For the rear there are inner and outer links that allow adjustment, but if you are not seeing odd tire wear and testing shows no movement, they are fine.
I don't like to see folks spend money on items that are really not needed. So, I would check them myself. Oh, and FYI, find a nice independent shop, many of the chain places will "upsell" on anything they can. Not saying that is the case but a good local independent is usually better.

It could be DIY but it's not a fun job without a lift. Not sure what "beyond adjustment" means They are normally either okay or worn out with excessive play. They don't have any adjustments to the links themselves. The inner end screws into the end of the rack and is torqued down. The outer gets mounted to the steering knuckle. Then they thread together for 2-3 inches and then you use them to adjust the toe and lock them down. As for the "alignment policy" if it's the typical one, it says they align the vehicle "free" every X amount of time. Additional parts and labor charges may apply. Multiple items that can be tacked on to that parts and labor as upsell items. Worn rod ends, Steering rack, Struts, shocks, subframe bushings, suspension bushings, suspension arms are all part of the items that could cause a bad alignment. 99% of the time odd tire wear is due to alignment issues. So, if your tires wear evenly and the vehicle is driving straight down the road without pull or wander, the alignment is probably fine. Just pointing out that none of the "free" services you get at shops are actually free. The entire idea of them is to get the vehicle in the bay to find something wrong that they can make money on.

Could you? Maybe, but you need a way to support the front of the car while you drop the subframe down about 3 inches to get it out. You set the wheels straight. Then lock the wheel or strap it in place. Then pull both front wheels. Now you pop the rod ends off the steering knuckles. Disconnect the steering shaft from the rack. Remove the lines and then the bolts. Now you mark the location of the subframe and loosen the front bolts and remove the rear ones, lower the subframe until you can remove the rack through the driver side. Do not lower it more than 3 inches though, you can damage engine parts because the engine tilts back.

If you want to read through it you can get the DIY version of Alldata or Mitchell for a reasonable price. It will give you the service information for a single vehicle. The other part of it is that if you use a windows machine you could use it to "print" each section of the information as pdf files to have later, when you don't want to pay anymore. Think it over and see if you want to tackle it. We'll be here if needed.