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My car shut off while driving?

Tiny
CLEFFEL
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thank you, I did replace the purge valve. And also fuel pump. Is there any other reason there could be for this problem?
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:06 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Yeah. It is the charcoal canister that I mentioned. More than likely that has raw fuel in it. If that is the case then every time the purge valve opens it is allowing too much vapor in.

When you fill the tank now it is forcing even more vapor in the canister and it can't hold anymore so it is pushed into the engine. I would suggest removing the canister (circled) and shaking it and seeing if you hear fuel in it. Then replace that and the CCV on the side of it.
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:06 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
  • 2008 HYUNDAI ACCENT
  • 126,125 MILES
Car keeps dying after short trips. What's the cause of it.
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:06 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
If the stalling occurs only slowing down, ie accelerator released, that would mean excessively low idling speed.
Is the Malfunction Indicator Light showing?
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:06 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MOMMYMCT
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 2007 HYUNDAI ACCENT
  • 1.6L
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 181,000 MILES
I’ve had my car since March, I bought it from the second owner. Since I bought it it’s given me issues with stalling and flashing check engine, check fuel cap and the oil canister but only when stalling or shutting off. It does it while driving. I’ve done the machine readings many times giving me many causes all I’ve replaced (sensors, fuel filter, ignition switch and 4 coils, belts, spark plugs) I’m not sure what it can be anymore and now when shutting off the oil canister and battery light come on. Any ideas? I’m stumped
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:06 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello,

Is your Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) or "check engine" light illuminated? If it is can you please pull the Direct Trouble Code(s) for us. You will need a scan tool to do this, and if you are unfamiliar with how to do it, here is a link for you to go to:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please go through the guide, if needed, and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:06 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MOMMYMCT
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
The lights are not consistent, when the car stalls the lights come on but once the car is shut off and turned back on it does not show the lights until it stalls again. Which also means we are unable to get a code.
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:06 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

Not all of the warning lights, just the "check engine" light. Is that light illuminated?

Thanks,
Alex
2CarsPros
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:06 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MOMMYMCT
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
No, the oil canister and the battery lights appear on the dash when the car stalls.
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:06 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

Okay, this could be a problem with your vehicle's Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) starting to fail. Your vehicle's Power-train Control Module (PCM) or "computer" uses this signal to determine where the engine is in it's 4 stroke cycle. It the turns on the fuel injectors and makes the spark plug spark accordingly. The sensor when starting to fail, will usually do it when it gets warm. Here are a couple of links below for you to go to:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-crank-shaft-angle-sensor-works
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

In the diagrams down below I have included the description of operation as well as the location of the CKP for your vehicle. Here is a link for you to go to on the removal and installation of the CKP:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:06 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRYANA BEECHAM
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2007 HYUNDAI ACCENT
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 223,000 MILES
When I test drove this Hyundai, I noticed a problem when it went up long hills; it slows down to a crawl and then will not go past 40 kmh for a while, and then the brakes seize when I stop the car at an intersection. Then the car bucks and leaps when I press on the gas, makes huge crunching noises. Have seen smoke coming from wheels. The previous owner said he fixed the problem, but obviously not! And now he has disappeared. Any advice? It feels dangerous to drive it this way, but I have limited funds and would like to take it to the garage and at least have some intelligent request. Is it the ABS brakes? Could it be the caliper?
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:06 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,740 POSTS
Hi,

I don't think it has to do with the ABS, but rather. It sounds like the brakes are stuck in the on position. Since you saw smoke, that sounds like they are overheating. It could be a caliper is frozen. If you can, safely lift one wheel off the ground at a time and see if you can turn the tire. Do this and let me know what you find. Also, let me know if it was one wheel or more than one you saw smoke from. By the way, that would be the first one I would check.

Let me know.

Joe
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:06 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRYANA BEECHAM
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I did end up taking it to a local shop. Their best guess was that the brake fluid was contaminated at some point in the past, and now it has mucked up the system to the point that the brakes seize after 10 minutes of driving. He showed me the damage to the seal under the cap (it was swollen and discolored, had ripped) and where the heat discolored the brake pads. Too dangerous to keep driving, he said, and a progressive problem, that will only get worse over time. They told me I would have to replace the entire brake system, to the tune of about $1,500.00 CDN, which is what I paid for the entire car. So not sure if I'm going to go ahead with it, but does that sound like a possibility to you?
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:06 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,740 POSTS
If the brake fluid was contaminated, yes it is possible. However, that price is a bit crazy. What exactly is that amount in USD? If that is the problem, it will be a lot of parts to replace, but none of the steel brake lines would need replaced, just flushed. In my mind, I can't imagine parts being over 500 USD. I can provide you with the directions for replacing everything they told you, so if you want to do it yourself, let me know.

Joe
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 11:06 AM (Merged)

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