Steering Wheel makes cranking sounds when driving slowly or turning?

Tiny
IZIDORO
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 81,000 MILES
Cranking sounds when I’m going slow or turning. I just fixed the Struts on the front driver and passenger side. I thought maybe that would get rid of the problem, but it didn’t. What is it?
Sunday, November 12th, 2023 AT 1:24 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
It sounds like the CV axles need to be replaced, which is common. Can you please shoot a quick video with your phone so I can hear the noise? That way I can tell for sure what's going on. You can upload it here with your response. Here is a generic guide to help you step by step with instructions in the diagrams below to show you how on your car:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-cv-axle

Check out the images (below). Please upload pictures or videos of the problem so we can see what's going on.
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Monday, November 13th, 2023 AT 10:32 AM
Tiny
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Cranking might be a bad description, it sounds more like a grinding sound.
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Tuesday, November 14th, 2023 AT 8:59 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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Hi guys. I've been following to learn the solution. After hearing the video, two things came to mind. The first is there is usually a very small universal joint in the steering shaft under the dash. Look for that, hold one hand on it to feel it as you turn the steering wheel with your other hand. If it's binding, you should be able to feel it.

The other suggestion has to do with a similar problem on the mid to late '90s Neons. There was a service bulletin for a creaking noise, especially in very cold weather. I looked under the '95 and '96 models but couldn't find that bulletin. It had to do with the steering shaft sticking to the rubber weather seal down by the firewall. The suggested repair was complicated by a large hard rubber cover that had to be removed to gain access to the seal. The steering shaft did not have to be disconnected, but that boot did have to be slid up on it, out of the way.

The next step was to remove three self-tapping screws that went into the firewall. Those were special screws that had no threads right under the heads, so once you ran them in, they could just keep spinning and spinning without tearing out the hole in the sheet metal. You had to use a cotter pin hook to pull the boot up as you ran the screws out with an air-powered ratchet. A hand ratchet worked too, but took longer. Pulling up on the boot pulled the screws up to where the threads would catch, then they could be run out like normal.
Once the three screws were out, that seal could be lifted up, then we were to spray on some of Chrysler's "Spray White Lube", then reassemble everything. That's a white lithium grease that goes on very runny. The juice runs into tight places and takes the grease with it. Later, the juice evaporates but it leaves the grease behind. It works great for door hinge pins. Now you can find similar greases at any hardware store.

That grease does get rather hardened after a while and looks like an oil film on the engine that dirt has settled on, but it's cream-colored. If you go through all this work, you might consider using a light axle grease or the grease you use for ball joints and tie rod ends.

After doing a number of these, I got to the point that I didn't need to remove the hard rubber cover or the seal. By knowing where to stuff the cotter pin pick in, I could pull the boot back enough to spray in the grease. We had a number of good customers who liked to work on their own stuff. For them, I often suggested just spraying some "Silicone Spray Lube" on the seal. That stuff looks like and goes on like water. It evaporates, but leaves a film of "slippery" behind. That will sneak past the seal and get to the area that's rubbing, but I don't know how long that will last. You might try that to see if the noise is gone for a few weeks. If it is, but comes back, redo the job with a grease.

This drawing shows the seal for your car. It looks much like those on the Neons, but I don't see that hard rubber cover. The tip of my red arrow is touching the edge of the seal that must be pulled back to squirt in the grease. If you don't have a cotter pin pick, I would use one screwdriver to stick in under the seal and hold it away a little, then put some light wheel bearing grease on the tip of a flat-blade screwdriver, and stuff that in there. Remove the first screwdriver, then the lip of the seal will wipe the grease off the second one and leave it in there as you pull it out.

If this doesn't help, I'll be sitting in my corner waiting in case you need more of my wondrous wisdom, and to learn the solution.
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Wednesday, November 15th, 2023 AT 7:30 PM
Tiny
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I took my car in today to my mechanic and asked him to look into it and tell me what it was, he said it was the Lower ball joints. I also have another problem happening with this car, it dies on me while I’m idle, turning or when I’m about to park, or stop. (No one has been able to fix this issue yet) this happens very randomly. I’ll post another question and write more details about that. But does it sound like Lower Ball joint might be the problem?
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Friday, November 17th, 2023 AT 2:46 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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The ball joints can become tight and make a creaking noise, but we don't see that very often anymore. There's a couple of ways to verify that. One is to crawl underneath or drive the car onto a drive-on hoist, then listen next to each one with a stethoscope while a helper turns the steering wheel.

Another approach is to raise the front tires off the ground, then support the car on jack stands under the frame, not under the lower control arms.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/jack-up-and-lift-your-car-safely

That will unload the lower ball joints. Now turn the steering wheel back and forth. If a ball joint is causing the noise, it likely will not now because there's no stress, or forces acting on it. On your model, the lower ball joints are the "load-carrying" joints because the vehicle's weight passes through them on the way to the ground. The upper ball joints just hold the steering knuckle in position. As non-load-carrying joints, they don't wear to become tight or noisy.

If the creaking noise is still there, it has to be coming from something that isn't affected by vehicle weight. That suggests the universal joint or dust shield in the steering shaft. The rack and pinion steering gear is also not affected by vehicle weight, but I can't think of anything inside them that could make this noise.

Another clue to a tight ball joint is it is going to interfere with normal steering wheel return to center after turning a corner. That's called "memory steer". The steering wheel tends to stay where you put it. You'll have to pull the steering wheel back to center. Normal, minor steering corrections as you drive will become very tedious and tiring. It will make for a miserable car to drive, beyond the noise.

Did you post the new question about the low-idle problem? If you did, someone else posted an answer before I saw it. There's some very easy and common things to look for to diagnose that.
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Saturday, November 18th, 2023 AT 1:34 PM
Tiny
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No, I haven’t posted the question about the low-idle problem yet. Where did you find an answer? Also, I found out that if I go very fast on the freeway, the creaking, grinding sound disappears. I tested this out for a few days. Does that help at all? Haha
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Friday, November 24th, 2023 AT 10:04 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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Any type of road vibration can vary the weight the ball joints are supporting at any instant and can change the stress in a tight one and make the noises stop. The best is to listen next to each one with a stethoscope while a helper works the steering wheel.

For the low idle speed, I don't know when this stopped being an issue, but all through the '90s and later, only on Chrysler products, low idle speed resulted any time the battery was disconnected for any reason. The memory gets lost in the Engine Computer. All of the fuel trim data and sensor personalities are relearned as soon as you start driving, without you even noticing. The one notable exception is "minimum throttle". Until that is relearned, the engine may not start unless you hold the accelerator pedal down 1/4". It will tend to stall at stop signs, and you won't get the nice "idle flare-up" to 1,500 RPMs at start-up.

A very specific set of conditions must be met for minimum throttle to be relearned. To meet those conditions, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the pedals.
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Saturday, November 25th, 2023 AT 6:25 PM

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