My engine stalls at idle can you help me fix it?

Can you give us the actual trouble code numbers? We need that to help you more effectively. This sounds like you have a vacuum leak, dirty throttle bore or the IAC motor is not working but to be sure lets check out these guides to help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down these guides and report back.

Running 2 seconds then shutting off sounds like a security issue as the system shuts off the fuel supply. Post the numbers you are seeing on the code reader please. Are there any other lights on besides the check engine light?

Good afternoon,

I attached a guide for security reset. Give it a try in case it is a security issue. Usually the theft or security light stays on when this is the issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Let us know the code numbers so we can help you further.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Roy

I tried the security thing. its not that. I getting codes
P0351.
P0352.
P0353.
P0354.
I think it's kind of rare for all coils to go bad at the same time...
When I try to start it runs about 2 seconds and shuts off. I can pump the gas pedal while I'm starting it and it will rev up for a second and shut off. I think I'm getting bad coil codes because its not getting fuel or enough fuel.. it has got me stumped.

You could get those coil codes if the voltage to the coils was low or dropping out, that would also cause the stalling you have as the coils and injectors share that power feed.
It could be a short in a coil or injector that is shutting them all down as the codes all relate to the ignition signal not returning to the ECM from the coil. The coils all share the power feed, the ground and the signal return. To test the easiest way would be to simply unplug the connector on each coil one at a time and try running the engine, if it's a shorted coil or bad signal the coil you unplug and the engine runs is the one sending a bad return signal. If you unplug each and there is no change then Go to the IG2 relay in the box under the hood on the left side and see if it is turning off after the two seconds. If it isn't then check to see if the fuel pump relay (C/OPN) is turning on when you first turn on the key and then staying on once the engine tries to run, it's in the fuse panel on the end of the dash.

I will give it a shot.

Good morning,

I attached the meanings of the codes for you below. You need to test for power to the coils to see if power is present for them to work.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

How did you test the coils? They should have power with the key in the on position. I attached a wiring diagram for you as well.

Roy

DESCRIPTION
HINT:

These DTCs indicate malfunctions relating to the primary circuit.
If DTC P0351 is set, check the No. 1 ignition coil circuit.
If DTC P0352 is set, check the No. 2 ignition coil circuit.
If DTC P0353 is set, check the No. 3 ignition coil circuit.
If DTC P0354 is set, check the No. 4 ignition coil circuit.
A Direct Ignition System (DIS) is used on this vehicle.

The DIS is an ignition system in which each cylinder is ignited by it's own ignition coil and spark plug. The secondary wiring of each ignition coil generates a powerful voltage which is applied directly to each spark plug. The spark passes from the center electrode of the spark plug to the ground electrode.

The ECM determines the ignition timing and transmits the ignition (IGT) signals to each cylinder. Using the IGT signal, the ECM turns the power transistor inside the igniter on and off. The power transistor, in turn, switches on and off the current to the primary coil. When the current to the primary coil is cut off, a powerful voltage is generated in the secondary coil. This voltage is applied to the spark plugs, causing them to spark inside the cylinders. As the ECM cuts the current to the primary coil, the igniter sends back an ignition confirmation (IGF) signal to the ECM, for each cylinder ignition.

Okay, I checked the coils unplugging one at a time and try to start.. still starts and shuts off. Getting the same trouble codes.

You need to test the voltage at each coil with the key on.

Roy

If unplugging the coils did nothing then it's time to check the injector power and see if the voltage is turning off. Then check the fuel pump relay. 2 seconds would be about the time the engine could run if the pump was priming the system then shutting off.

I put a new fuel pump relay in. still no start.

Did you verify voltage at the coils?

Roy

Changing the relay won't do anything unless there is voltage to it. That is why Roy and I are saying to test the actual voltage.

Okay, I tested the injectors power and there getting constant power.

Did you test the voltage on both sides? There Should only be voltage on one side constant and other should flash when cranking.

Roy

Power on one side flashing on the other.

Okay, the ECM is working.

Did you verify fuel pressure to the injectors?

Roy

The pump is putting out but it's like something is shutting fuel off before it gets to engine.

Cannot be. If it is running, then either the pressure is too low to the front or the pump is bad. That is why I need the pressure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Roy

This has happened twice now in two weeks 7 days apart. I went to start my car and it turned over (no grinding or clicking noise) and the car acted like it was going to start as normal, but before the engine fully got going it stalled out. I tried to start it again and it fired up no problem. Other than this, I have not had any trouble with my car's ignition other than the starter which I replaced three years ago.

Hi and welcome to 2CarPros. I would recommend you clean the throttle body first. Here is a link on throttle body issues:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

Clean it out first and let us know if that help the issue.

Once engine warms, car will not idle at a stop (such as a red light) regardless of what gear (D, N, P). RPM's drop rapidly to 0 and car shuts off.

Only way to keep engine running at a stop is to pop in neutral, one foot on brake, one foot gently on gas to keep RPM over 1,000.

This could be as simple as the idle control valve is causing it to stall. However, this normally causes a stall at start up not only when it is warm. However, it would be a good idea to clean the throttle body and ISC valve.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

If this does not correct the issue then we need to check for a vacuum leaks. Here is a guide that can help with that. Let me know what you find and we can go from there. Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

hi, only stalls when and not always as i make a stop red light etc. then go to take off. thanks , rob

Try cleaning the Idle Air Control Motor. Also clean out around the butterfly in the throttle bore with carb cleaner and a rag. This should help stabilize the idle.Also be sure the tune up is in good shape, at that mileage you should be on your second major tune up

replace engine coolant temp sensor.

Hello, my 2001 Corolla starts but stalls immediately unless I step on the gas. It stays running until I take my foot off the gas. The are no warning lights. The car is serviced regularly.

Many thanks.

Clean out the idle air control valve, test the TPS and MAF sensors-to include checking the EGR valve

Where is the IAC Valve and MAP sensor located on a 2001 Toyota Corolla? Thanks

The IACV is on the throttle body and the mass airflow meter is on left side of engine compartment in air intake duct.

Fuel pump only runs about 2 seconds and shuts off what’s causing the issue? Theft lock?

Just to clarify the issue, are you trying to start the vehicle and it is not starting? When is the pump only running for 2 seconds? When you turn the key to the on position? If that is the case, that is normal. It is just priming the system and building fuel pressure so that it is ready to start.

If you are having a starting issue let's confirm the pump is building pressure by running a fuel pump test. This guide will help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here is another guide that will help with a crank no start if that is what is happening:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Let us know and we can go from there. Thanks

The vehicle is an abandoned vehicle. We have removed, and now have the title for. The ignition switch is broken. Using jumpers in the pins to fire same as it would be if it was the switch. We turned the ignition to “on” position. Fuel pump comes on, runs 3 seconds, cuts off (primes the system) touch crank wire and it fires up and cranks then shuts off and fuel pump comes back on.

Okay. can you get a video of this? I am not sure what you mean by fires up, cranks and then shuts off. Does the engine even start? Or it just cranks for a few seconds then stops?

Having a stalling problem on a 00 corolla. I have checked condition out and confirmed that the fuel injectors are cutting out after the first few seconds. I don't see any security lights. How do I further diagnose?
recently been rebuilt.

It's not a security problem. The headlights and horn would be flashing if it was. You could have a shorted injector. I would disconnect all of them, and see if you can keep it running with carb cleaner while monitoring a noid light on the injector plug.

Ok I will check it out with noid light.

Question: would the computer shut down ground pulse to all injectors if it sensed more draw/short on any given injector?

I will check coil resistance on all injectors and compare.

with all injectors unplugged I cranked the engine, and the ground pulse was only there for 2 seconds. After that there was no activity.

Could be a bad computer but all the wiring has to be tested first.

I agree, Where should we start?
Should I test cam sensor circuits first, or what would you recommend.
Wiring diagrams go a long way and really help. thanks