My starter is not working?

Make sure the battery has a full charge and connections all good, positive and negative. If the starter motor is only spinning and not cranking the engine, have to check starter motor and flywheel teeth.
As far as stalling at idle, my first thought is check IAC motor, any trouble codes point in that direction? You can try cleaning your throttle body and throttle valve with old tooth brush. Some solvents aren't meant to be used on throttle bodies. How long since overall tune-up?
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Sorry I meant 12.1 is very low.

Roy

If the starter motor cranks the engine, the starter motor should be okay. Cranking is starter motor action not starting. I'm trying to make sure we're on the same page? If you use a digital multi-meter across battery posts, everything off, 12.6 volts is generic spec for full charge. Leave the leads touching the battery posts while helper turns key to crank, how far does the voltage drop, Usually shouldn't drop below 9 volts. Some vehicles say 9.6 volts, some say 10 volts, but, you get the idea, if it drops way down there, have to get battery charged.
I wondered about your battery because you said weak spark, certainly there could be other issues. Any applicable trouble codes? It seems I have heard of problems with distributor assembly, but, I can't be positive that is your problem? I'd hate to see you replace something and it not fix it.

Okay, do you have a voltmeter to do some testing in the starting circuit?

Check the fuses listed for power on both sides.

Roy

The basics for a rough idle, check for a leak of some kind, fuel, EGR, vacuum. I did look at your fuel pressure spec, it said 47--51 psi, key on engine off. so if in the middle should be fine.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

The voltage at your battery when running is being produced by the alternator. You need to load test the battery with the engine off. Here is a quick link for that:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Now, the issue with taking three times to stay running sounds like the fuel pump is losing prime. What I want you to try is this. Turn the key to the run position (not start) and count to five and turn it off. Do that procedure three times and on the fourth, start it.

Do that and let me know what happens.

Take care,
Joe

Welcome back:

Let me know. By cycling the switch, you are allowing the pump to re-prime the system. If it starts right up, we need to determine why it loses pressure.

Take care and I will watch for your reply.

Joe

Welcome back:

Most certainly it could be the filter preventing pressure issues. Here is a general description showing how to check fuel pressure:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

The pictures below show common causes of low fuel pressure or why pressure can drop. Note that one possibility is a clogged fuel filter.

The fuel pressure your vehicle should have is the following:

Measure fuel pressure while the engine is running at idle.
Standard value: 324 - 343 kPa (47 - 50 psi)

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Hi guys. Please allow me to stick my nose in here and add one wondrous comment of great value. When I read the engine starts, then stalls, this is an extremely common problem on Chrysler products after the battery has been run dead or has been disconnected. All other data will be relearned as soon as you start driving, except for "minimum throttle". A very specific set of conditions must be met for that to take place. The clue is the engine will stay running when you hold the accelerator pedal down 1/4". You may also notice good cranking with a total failure to start, or stalling at stop signs.

To trigger the relearn to occur, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the pedals. The Engine Computer wants to see high manifold vacuum for seven seconds, (so it knows you are coasting and therefore the car is moving), and it must see a rock-solid signal voltage from the throttle position sensor. After seven seconds, it puts the TPS voltage into memory. From then on, any time it sees that same voltage, it knows your foot is off the accelerator pedal, and it must be in control of idle speed.

As a mechanic, a test-drive to perform this relearn should be part of any service that required disconnecting the battery, or you should explain the need for this procedure to the customer. That will prevent customers from returning with a complaint. Even if you let them go without this explanation, the relearn will take place on any typical off-ramp, but the owner might remember the original stalling problem and falsely associate it with shoddy workmanship.