No crank no start issue

Hi,

What you described sounds like a poor connection. It could be at the battery, the starter, or a fuse/relay.

I attached the wiring schematic below for the starting system for your reference. I'm not sure if it has a smart key or not, so I went with "not". If that's wrong, let me know.

Now, since everything is new, are you certain the engine isn't locked up, preventing the starter from turning it? If you have checked and it turns, we need to next confirm all connections are tight, clean, and free of corrosion. Although the battery is new, please confirm it is fully charged and the connections to it are clean and tight.

Take a look through this link. It describes exactly what you described and what to check for.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Next, I attached the wiring schematic below and highlighted fuses and relays to check. As far as the click you hear, is it in the vehicle or under the hood? There are two different relays related to the starting system and they are at different locations.

When you check the fuses identified, first, confirm the fuse itself is good. I suspect you already did that. However, if the fuse is good, you should also confirm there is power to and from it. Here is a link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Next, if all fuses are good, confirm both relays are good. If there is a different relay with the same part number in the box, switch them to see if it makes a difference. If there isn't, here is a link that explains how to test one:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below. Note: I had to cut the schematic in half to make it readable for you. I did overlap the two pics so you can follow from one to the next. Also, I attached pics of the fuse boxes and fuse locations.

If the battery terminal is as tight as possible but you can still pull it off, I have a feeling that is where the problem is. Have you tried replacing the terminal? That is where I would recommend starting.

When you engage the starter, there is a heavy draw on the battery. When you have a loose terminal as described, a lot of times the draw causes the connection to be temporarily lost. Then, you'll notice power returns.

As far as shimming the starter, if that was an issue, you would either hear the starter grind against the flywheel because it's too far away, it would engage and make a click or turn the engine and then stay engaged.

Based on your description of the battery terminal, I feel that is the issue.

If possible, get a replacement terminal that can be tight on the battery post.

Let me know if that takes care of the problem.

Take care,

Joe

Hi,

The module won't prevent it from starting. However, the airbag will be inoperative.

Has the battery terminal that was loose been taken care of? Also, at the starter, you have two primary wires to worry about. One is straight from the battery and will have 12v at all times and will be a much heavier gauge wire than the other. There will be a smaller wire that is the trigger wire. It is smaller in diameter and only receives 12v when the key is in the start position.

According to the wiring schematic, both wires at the starter will be black (which is odd). Locate the larger one and confirm 12v at all times. Then check the other with the key in the start position. Here is a link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

The idea that everything electrical goes out when you try starting it still sounds like a connection issue. If possible, turn the headlamps on and have a helper turn the key to start while you watch the headlamps. See if they go dark.

Also, any pics or videos of what is happening may help me. If I could hear everything that is happening, it may help me. Also, the idea that the fan was turning slowly is a bit of a concern. Are you sure there isn't an engine issue (locked-up)?

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

Looking at the codes P1111 and 1112, we have a connection issue. Interestingly, the two codes are opposites.

Do me a favor. Take a look through the diagnostics below and let me know if you are comfortable doing it. Personally, I would start with 1112, but that's your call. It starts at pic 5.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.