Stalls when driving?

Tiny
TDC77
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 150,000 MILES
95 Mazda Protege, I had an issue with the car a while back. Was driving great, and then one day, got in to go home, it didn't want to turn over. Tow driver said it WASN'T my battery, which made sense because everything else was working fine. Took the car to my mechanic, he said "Its' getting fire, and fuel. Must be the computer". He showed me the computer, and I noticed that there was something from the previous owner spilled on it (Its located beneath the cup holders) I had the car towed home (My mechanic couldn't find a computer for the car for over a month). I cleaned the prongs of the connectors on the computer, reinstalled it, and then with a little umph, it started up. I drove it around my house for a bit, with no trouble. Shut it off, then back on. No problem. Put everything back together (console and gear shift cover) Started again, and began to drive again. At this point, the car shut off in mid drive in 2nd gear. I restarted with problems not wanting to start, but then it would turn over, just to do stall out again mid drive. Is it the computer, or something else? THANK YOU!
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMES W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,394 POSTS
Yes, it could be the computer. What you'll need to do is; When the stalling condition exists, try to determine what is missing. Spark, fuel pressure, fuel injector pulse, or any combination of the above. If you can narrow this down, we can go from there. Otherwise, we're just guessing. And guessing can get expensive on your part. Please advise.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ALVINR
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • MAZDA PROTEGE
1995 Mazda Protege, 200K + miles; stick;
Car is hard to start, will not accelerate nor hold speed on a hill without stalling, even when there is no load. Has good spark. When running can slowly rev the engine, if a quick acceleration is tried, engine stalls. If a quick but small acceleration is tried, then held eventually the engine will catch up. Replaced fuel pump & fuel filter.
Q? Fuel regulator? Timing belt? Or?
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Check engine light is it On or has flashed?

Last major tune-up

All basic stuffs squared away?

Check ignition timing/recheck fuel pressure and check Closed/WOT of throttle positon sensor/MAF/MAP load sensor.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ALVINR
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Full tune about a year ago.
Basics all appear proper.
No check engine light. Checked for other codes, none returned.
New fuel filter and fuel pump. Have not done a pressure check.
I will do sensor checks as soon as I can get a manual to verify settings.
Thx for input
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
REFFNER13
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
I cannot figure this problem out on my car, the car will start up and idle, once I push the gas it dies. Fuel filter and pump were replaced less than a year ago. Thanks for the help
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
COLT45246
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Did you check the mass air flow sensor?
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KLABESAB
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Check my post about the 1994 mazda that dies when accelerating. It was the same problem. A wire came loose and shorted out in the sensor. You can repair them. My car would start and idle and die when the gas was pressed. I know how frustrating this can be. If you have other issues I have done a great deal of work with my protege.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MAZDAPROTEGE94
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1994 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 120 MILES
Need help with stalling issue during warm-up. My 1994 Mazda Protege with 120,000 miles stalls during warm-up. About 3 minutes after starting cold it will stall several times. It runs OK once completely warm (after about 6 minutes of run stalls during warm-up. About 3 minutes after starting cold it will stall several times. It runs OK once completely warm (after about 6 minutes of run time). Asking for help to solve this issue.

I checked the fuel pump for correct pressure as well as the pressure regulator, both are OK.
The Idle air control valve is OK as well as the coolant temperature sensor and Mass air flow meter.
I replaced the throttle body gasket and added gum out fuel injector cleaner to the tank and replaced the spark plugs, air filter and ignition wires. The EVAP solenoid purge valve is OK. Is it possible that a valve clearance adjustment, would solve this?

I would appreciate any help!
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Try cleaning the throttle plate on both sides with choke cleaner. Also the iac valve
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MAZDAPROTEGE94
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I had the throttle plate off and cleaned it and the IAC valve was tested compared to a known good one. The car will stall even when given throttle at the narrow temperature range somewhere between 120 to 140 degrees. At operating temperature the car functions normally.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
The only thing I can suggest without running a scan on it is to replace the coolant temp sensor even though it tested good. You want the sensor with the blue/white wire an dbrown/black wire. The other is for the fan. Sometimes the sensor will read good but aren't when they are in certain ranges.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MAZDAPROTEGE94
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thanks for your suggestion. I will definately consider changing the coolent temperature sensor since I have limited experience testing these and they are relatively inexpensive. I will probably check the compression on all cylinders since this should uncover an issue with the valves. The check engine light did not come on so I don't think a scan will show anything. If you don't mind another reply I would appreciate your input on temperature sensor removal such as type of socket to use. Also do most of the compression gauges available fit the spark plug hole for the Japanese cars such as Mazda, Honda, Toyota Etc?
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Yes most of the compression gauges would fit. If it were compression though, it would do it all the time. Normally if the coolant sensor has awire attached to it then you need a slotted socket otherwise a normal one that fits should work.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CMGONZALES428
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1993 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 236,000 MILES
My 1993 Mazda Protege lugs when I press the throttle. It actually wants to die. Its like it is getting to much air and after repeated pedal pushes it revs up, but then goes right back to doing it again. What could cause that?
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-hesitates

Could be caused by one of the following below

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Crankshaft position sensor
Knock sensor
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking or defective fuel pump.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HANSONMAUREENA
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1993 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
I have a 93 Mazda Protege. Thought it was missing because it needed a tune up. Did the tune up, changed the fuel filter and it is still cutting out. When it cuts out the check engine light flashes, it hasn't died, and it happens when you begin to accelerate or if you are going up a a hill and rpms drop a little under a load. It just started having a little smell of coolant and the windows fog up some. I hate the thought of head gasket problems. Been there. Would it cut out like that if it is head gasket? Or any other ideas.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Coolant smell means there is a leak somwhere. If it is inside the cabin, the heater core could be the cause.

Get a pressure test performed to locate for leakages. If it is a head gasket problem, the recovery tank would be increasing in level whereas the radiator side would be depleting.

When the MIL indicates, it means an error hads been detected and you need to retrieve the trouble code to find out what is causing it. The trouble code would enable us to know if it is related to the misfiring.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROE03
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • MAZDA PROTEGE
I have a 1993 mazda protege with 187,000 miles. I believe the engine is a dohc. Very very good car just minor touch ups I need to get done like tune-up, muffler replaced, and window but anyway. Everytime I turn my ac on my car starts shaking. When its on and I am getting ready to stop at a traffic like, my car shuts off completely. The only time it does that is when my ac is on. Now, i'm a female away from home and don't know a lot about cars except the minor things. What can be causing this problems and also during the winter it takes my car a while to warm up. Could both of these issue be coming from one thing. :(
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MIKE H R
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,094 POSTS
When the a/c is turned on it puts more strain on a engine. If the car needs a tune up you should get one done. It could be something simple like a plug fouling under load or a bad wire. As far as the little heat. Change the thermast, it could be going bad.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:23 PM (Merged)

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