When warmed up while driving it stalls for a second then takes off again

Tiny
DIAMONDROSE
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 PONTIAC GRAND PRIX
  • 3.8L
  • V6
  • 98,000 MILES
I did replace the crankshaft sensor and it still does it. Could it be the new crankshaft sensor was bad also? Does not show a code. Will also stall after idling for a time. Also has a little jump in the tachometer.
Monday, April 8th, 2019 AT 9:43 AM

75 Replies

Tiny
PATENTED_REPAIR_PRO
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,853 POSTS
Try a new engine coolant temperature sensor. Sometimes when they go bad they can send the wrong information to the computer then the PCM adjusts fuel trim according to the wrong temperature and thus causing running problems associated after warm up.
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Monday, April 8th, 2019 AT 9:58 AM
Tiny
DIAMONDROSE
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I should have added to my question: It will continue to keep stalling every few minutes, then I might be able to drive ten miles before it happens again.
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Monday, April 8th, 2019 AT 10:06 AM
Tiny
DIAMONDROSE
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Today I started it and within a minute it idled down and stalled. Temperature gauge had not even move yet. Do you still think it is the temperature sensor?
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Monday, April 8th, 2019 AT 4:20 PM
Tiny
PATENTED_REPAIR_PRO
  • MECHANIC
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No. You said it does not show a code. Is that still true and are you using a scan tool to check for codes or a simple code reader?
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Tuesday, April 9th, 2019 AT 3:07 AM
Tiny
DIAMONDROSE
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It still does not show a code. I am not using a cheap code reader. I am using a scan tool that does ABS brakes and a lot of things, some I am not even able to understand yet.
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Tuesday, April 9th, 2019 AT 5:29 AM
Tiny
PATENTED_REPAIR_PRO
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Did you check for codes after that latest stall?
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Wednesday, April 10th, 2019 AT 5:21 AM
Tiny
DIAMONDROSE
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Yes, I checked. Let me add. When this started, I drove to O'Reilly's. At that time it showed a code for MAP. I got a new MAP. No change. They could not clear the code, so that is when I got my own scanner. And when I was there, the parts man said, clean the MAF. I did, no change. New air filter, no change. Next new crank shaft sensor, no change. Next, a used ICM and coils. No change. Yes, I was careful and used MAF cleaner on the MAF. Used dielectric grease on ICM, After cleaning every thing up. I have looked at many sites on the net, just found this site. I want to Thank you. I'm seventy and don't have a lot of money. So I hope you will continue to help me to get to the bottom of this. I have worked on all my cars over the years, and this has me stumped.
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Wednesday, April 10th, 2019 AT 5:29 PM
Tiny
PATENTED_REPAIR_PRO
  • MECHANIC
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At first you said, "Does not show a code.", Now you say, "it showed a code for Map".
So which is it? If it had a code, why not post the code and one of us can get you the troubleshooting procedure for that code. Not 100% of the time does a code mean a sensor is bad, it just refers to the circuit, it could be a wire or connection or ground issue.
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Thursday, April 11th, 2019 AT 3:33 AM
Tiny
DIAMONDROSE
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Sorry I was not clear when I asked the question. I changed the MAP. Cleared the code and it has not shown a code since. I did not think that was the problem as no code came back after I changed the Map. What I wrote was the steps I took after it continued to act up and quit running. I hope that this clears up. My mistake in explaining the problem.
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Thursday, April 11th, 2019 AT 6:59 AM
Tiny
DIAMONDROSE
  • MEMBER
  • 16 POSTS
Also, each time I changed a part, I drove the car about 17 miles, stopped at a store and returned home. Sometimes it acted up right away, other times, not until I slowed to come in to town:" The very first time it did this, " I had drove about 30 miles to another town, drove back about 20 miles, stopped for gas. Started the car to finish the last 10 miles to home and it shut off right away. And several times on the way home. To repeat, shut off for a second, restart itself with a jump in the RPM's and a jerk. I hope this will help in finding the problem, This is very rural, so the towns are 10, 17, and 30 miles away. So this is mostly highway speeds. And as I explained, the latest I started it and within a minute it idled down and shut off. This was when you asked about the temperature sensor. It always starts right back up. As a normal start up. Hope I have not confused you again As I wrote early this morning and thought I should add more detail. Thanks
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Thursday, April 11th, 2019 AT 11:57 AM
Tiny
DIAMONDROSE
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So how do I check the map circuit?
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Saturday, April 13th, 2019 AT 3:54 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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Here is a guide to help you test the MAP sensor circuit and the engine wiring diagrams so you can see how it works:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

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Tuesday, April 16th, 2019 AT 11:32 AM
Tiny
DIAMONDROSE
  • MEMBER
  • 16 POSTS
Ken This mess is over. To review. When my car started to stall, I went to ORielly's. It showed a code for the MAP. New MAP sensor. O Rielly's could not cancel the code. Bought a diagnostic tool. Canceled code. It stalled, no code. Talked to the guy at O Rielly's, said to clean the MAF. Bought the special cleaner, it stalled again. Next new crankshaft position sensor. No code again. Next I changed the ICM and coils, it stalled. Talked to several other people, went to a do-it-yourself salvage yard. Looked at about 15 cars with a 3.8 motor, guess what was gone on them all. Mass Air Flow! Finally found one! Put it on and not one time has it stalled since. Did not clean it or anything, cleaned up the metal that it sets in. Put a little dielectric grease on it and off I drove. Save you money on the cleaner, when you show a MAP code, replace the MAP and go ahead and change the MAF at the same time. You can buy a cheap one on ebay and don't have to pay hundreds of dollars at the parts store. Every place I looked and everyone I talked to said, "it did not surprise them, that it never showed a code again. Hope this helps all you 3.8 GM owners out there. And I want to thank everyone at 2carpro's with all of their help. Pat
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Thursday, April 18th, 2019 AT 3:38 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.
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Friday, April 19th, 2019 AT 11:04 AM
Tiny
CHUMEL
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 PONTIAC GRAND PRIX
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 146,000 MILES
I was sitting at a stop sign when the car shuddered and stalled. I tried to start it, it would start and immediatly stall again. I let it sit for about and hour and the car started and ran fine for about 25 miles and the process repeated again. Also the service engine light came on. What could the problem be?
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Friday, April 19th, 2019 AT 11:05 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
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Need to scan the PCM for the code/codes. The light is the PCM's way of telling you it has recorded a failure with something in the engine management. Autozone will scan it for free, get back with the results
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Friday, April 19th, 2019 AT 11:05 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FWEDO11
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1999 PONTIAC GRAND PRIX
As soon as I remove it from park and place it on drive it shuts off completely.
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Friday, April 19th, 2019 AT 11:05 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
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May be due to a faulty idle control system, if the car keeps running with a little extra throttle applied, get the idle control system checked.
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Friday, April 19th, 2019 AT 11:05 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FWEDO11
  • MEMBER
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It also does it when I place it on reverse too
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Friday, April 19th, 2019 AT 11:05 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Same deal, if the base idle is to low, any load as in placing in gear can stall engine.
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Friday, April 19th, 2019 AT 11:05 AM (Merged)

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