Stalling, loss of power, will not start when hot

Tiny
DYSONAARON9
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 FORD ESCAPE
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
I have been having an issue where my vehicle starts up perfectly on a cold start but doesn’t when hot. After idling for 15-20 minutes I turn off the engine and try to start it again. It turns over and has power but the rpm's fluctuate/sputter until it loses all power. Usually only takes about 5-15 seconds. Feels as if it’s overheating but temperature gauge reads normal. I’ve replaced my coolant reservoir (was cracked), fuel rail pressure sensor, MAF sensor, air filter, coolant temperature sensor, flushed the radiator, replaced spark plugs/coils, replaced fuel pump/filter yet I still have the same issue. After all this I took it for a test drive and it still felt as if it didn’t have the usual power and stayed around 2,000-3,000 rpm's with me trying to floor the accelerator. I’m at of loss of what it could be so I’m replacing the cylinder head temperature sensor next although I can’t find it on the cylinder. Anyone know if I’m missing something or know what this could be? Also where is the cylinder head temp sensors located?
Friday, July 26th, 2019 AT 11:52 AM

21 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Hi,

Attached is the procedure on how to replace the ECT sensor.

As for the issue, have you replaced or cleaned the idle air control valve? This is responsible for allowing enough air into the engine during idling. This valve can cause other issues but they don't exactly match yours. However, you need to remove it and inspect it or replace it to ensure it is not your issue.

Let me know and we can go from there,

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-idle-speed-control-motor-iac

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-low-engine-power

https://youtu.be/U1RoG3I-Oww
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Friday, July 26th, 2019 AT 5:45 PM
Tiny
DYSONAARON9
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
I have replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor already (ECT). The one I need help finding is the cylinder head temperature sensor (CHT). I’ve researched my engine and it requires both of these sensors to work in conjunction. Also, I have taken the IAC valve off and completely cleaned it. I don’t believe it’s the issue.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, July 28th, 2019 AT 8:18 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Please see attached. Let me know what happens and we can go from there. Thanks
Images (Click to make bigger)
Thumb
Thumb
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Sunday, July 28th, 2019 AT 1:00 PM
Tiny
DYSONAARON9
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
Still having trouble finding the CHT. Can’t put it in place according to the diagram you provided. Here’s pictures of my engine with the intake manifold off. I’m not a skilled mechanic so I do not want to remove stuff that is unnecessary. What exactly do I need to remove to expose the cylinder head sensor?
Images (Click to make bigger)
Thumb
Thumb
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, July 29th, 2019 AT 6:58 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Is it possible you can send me your VIN? I am finding conflicting information. It looks like the 3.0L is not equipped with a CHT but I find one listed on parts sites. I am thinking we have a terminology issue because the info I sent was for a 4 cylinder (according to the picture) but it was listed under the 3.0L.

If you can send your VIN I am going to have one of my Ford dealers look it up and get VIN specific information.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Tuesday, July 30th, 2019 AT 4:35 PM
Tiny
DYSONAARON9
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
The vin is 1fmcu041x8kb08464.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, July 30th, 2019 AT 4:40 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Okay. So I had one of my Ford dealers confirm that this engine does not have a CHT which is why you can’t find it.

So let’s back track. The vehicle starts fine when cold but then stalls and will not restart when it’s hot?

Have you monitored fuel pressure to see what it is doing when it is getting ready to stall and then not restarting? If not let’s do that and see what it is doing because it sounds like a fuel issues. You said earlier that you replaced fuel pump “yet”. Does that mean you have or have not replaced it?

Let’s just confirm pressure and go from there.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Wednesday, July 31st, 2019 AT 7:15 AM
Tiny
DYSONAARON9
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure sensor, and ran several fuel injector cleaners through it at high concentration. Is it possible my engine is overheating without actually reaching hot on the temp gauge? Maybe water pump or another sensor?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, July 31st, 2019 AT 8:57 AM
Tiny
DYSONAARON9
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
I haven’t checked fuel pressure. How would I go about doing that?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, July 31st, 2019 AT 8:58 AM
Tiny
DYSONAARON9
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
Also, I have replaced evap hoses, coolant reservoir, thermostat, done a coolant flush but is it possible that the coolant isn’t flowing correctly and my car is overheating? Another thing, there is a popcorn/bubbling noise when I accelerate at idle. And as it gets hotter the noise comes more often.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, July 31st, 2019 AT 9:13 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Okay. It is unlikely but we need to find out. Use a infrared temperature sensor and measure the temp around the engine.

As for the bubbling noise, can you get a recording of this? I am imagining the noise being a gurgling but that might not be even close.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-infrared-temperature-meter

Just the symptoms that you are saying, it sounds more like a crank sensor issue. The stalling and not starting when hot is more like a crank issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Wednesday, July 31st, 2019 AT 2:54 PM
Tiny
DYSONAARON9
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
Wow, read on the crank sensor and it sounds spot on. I will order and replace it. Hopefully it will do the trick.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, July 31st, 2019 AT 3:57 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Awesome. Hopefully that is it. Let me know what happens cause if that fixes it, that will help others with the same issues. Thanks.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Wednesday, July 31st, 2019 AT 4:05 PM
Tiny
DYSONAARON9
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
Replaced the crank sensor and the same issues are still happening. Any other suggestions? I’m at a loss of where to go from here.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 3:54 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Okay. I know you said you replaced the fuel pump but have you checked the pressure? You mentioned that you had not but I just want to make sure that is still the case.

Here is a guide that explains this. Also, I attached the process from the Ford Manual. You can get one of the pressure gauges from a parts store. Most of them rent them to you so don't feel like you need to buy one.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Let me know what the fuel pressure is when you start it cold and it runs well and then when it starts acting up. Clearly, it should be about the same. The reason is, you need fuel, spark, and compression to have an engine run. If you are lacking one then you will either not have an engine running or it will not run well.

We can assume that compression is fine and ignition seems okay as well at least for now because fuel makes the most sense. Once we confirm this is okay we can address spark.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 6:29 PM
Tiny
DYSONAARON9
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
I will try to ask around for the proper equipment and I’ll get back to you. The car starts perfect on a cold start after it sits for 3+hrs. I noticed today when I let it idle for 15 minutes that the coolant was barely flowing back into the reservoir. I was revving the engine often and the engine temperature was a little over half the gauge. Should my coolant have been flowing faster than a couple drops here and there into the reservoir? Also, the upper radiator hose was hard as a rock but there wasn’t coolant filling it, it felt full of air. Could this be the issue? Possible failing water pump or clogged radiator?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 6:42 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
No. This is not an issue. Your coolant bottle is called a recovery bottle. It is not meant to have all the coolant that flows through the system go back through the bottle. As for the hose, they are meant to be pretty hard and an air pocket would just cause an overheat and your engine is not overheating.

It sounds like a fuel issue but again, we need to start with that and then move on.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, August 2nd, 2019 AT 6:46 PM
Tiny
DYSONAARON9
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
So I got a relative to check my fuel pressure and they said it was normal. Didn’t know where to go from there so I did a radiator flush and now my vehicle starts every time hot or cold. Only problem is when I’m driving it stalls out randomly and it just feels sluggish and sporadic. Also, I filled my Freon up to 42psi two days ago and now it’s at 29psi. Not sure if that has any connection but is there any advice as to where to go from here?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, August 6th, 2019 AT 5:44 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
So when they checked the fuel pressure, did they leave the gauge on until it started running poorly and see what it was at that poorly? Unfortunately, low power/sluggish and stalling can still be a fuel issue.

Here is a video that talks about this. What was the actual pressure they found and how long did they monitor it?

https://youtu.be/U1RoG3I-Oww
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, August 7th, 2019 AT 6:51 PM
Tiny
DYSONAARON9
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
It no longer runs poorly at idle or any of the previous symptoms. I bled the air of of the coolant system and did a long term radiator flush and now the only issue is my vehicle can’t hold Freon and that it stalls and feels sluggish while driving. The other day I was driving into town and after about 10 minutes of 60+mph I was going down a hill and the car rpm's fluctuated from 300-2,500 for about 20 seconds and then all power was lost. I pulled over and it started right back up immediately. I’m not exactly sure about the fuel pressure as I wasn't there but my grandfather knows his way around vehicles and has done all his own maintenance for 45+ years. I don’t know where to go from here. The vehicle runs but stalls randomly and can’t hold any Freon at all. Also when I have the ac on it clicks non stop and create a bubbling sound but when I turn it off and crank the heat it goes away. Seems like if I were to drive with the heat on full blast it wouldn’t stall.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, August 7th, 2019 AT 7:06 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Related Engine Low Power Content

Fix an Engine with Low Power!
VIDEO
Fix an Engine with Low Power!
In­struc­tional re­pair video
Symptoms of Low Engine Power
GUIDE
Symptoms of Low Engine Power
The power your car's en­gine is pro­duc­ing is im­por­tant. When you step on the gas you need your car to ac­cel­er­ate, mainly to keep you out of trou­ble when get­ting onto the...
VIEW MORE