Stalls after starting and when stopping and rough idle

The idle gradually has gotten worse, it's rough and has a rich emission smell. If you hold your foot steady on the gas after starting it, the idle will go up and down. Sometimes surges and cuts out when driving. About 9 mos, ago I changed most of the vacuum hoses, except the brake booster hose. Did the PCV hose, but used fuel line(thats what the parts store sold, and evidently they don't carry booster hose either).
So unless it's a throttle valve or intake leak, not sure. Bad EGR maybe, Or coolant temperature sensor?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks

Ken,

I tried this. After 4 blinks (which coincides with the Check motor light), I turned the screw all the way back counter clockwise. The description doesn't say which way to turn it (according to sources on the internet, it's clockwise first, get flashing lights, then back). Then it does nothing. No lights flash at all.

I had a guy send me a flow chart that says start car, let it warm up, go to mode 3, turn back counterclockwise get code 55 (which it does). After that, no other codes pop up. There's obviously something wrong with the car since 55 is no malfunction.
Thanks,
Chris

Just curious. Should the cars ECU be in mode 3 or 4, and should it be started or just have ignition on?
I was thinking maybe I did it wrong. The car doesn't really have a lack of power. When driving it smooths out, but will slightly cut out then kick in again, and when coming to a stop, then you feel the bad idle and it sometimes stalls. Starts right up though every time. But its mainly a rough idle (up and down if holding the gas steady), some surging, stalling, and a very rich high emission smell when it is cold or hot.
Have to try the vacuum gauge thing, or pull the 02.
Something else. Before changing the ECU, a lot of soot was covering plugs and 02. After the change plugs returned to normal, and 02 looked okay (same one in though). Is it possible the reed valves(in the air intake valve on snorkel) or something else is plastered with soot?
Thanks again.

Ken,

I did a vacuum test on the EGR valve and it holds vacuum. Don't know if it's closing or opening all the way though. If you push up on from the bottom while the car is running, it runs rougher or stalls. Also connected a vacuum gauge to a throttle body outlet(fuel vapor canister), and the needle bounces rapidly between 8-15 in. Someone said could be a broken/weak valve spring and do a compression test. I did. Let car idle for 5-10 mins. Pulled plugs. 1st set, 180-180-176-169. 1 hour later(12 cranks each cylinder), was 175-175-170-172. Did a few more tries. Never more than about 6-7% difference on lowest cylinder. Is it better on a warm motor and how many cranks are needed to get a good result? From videos on the internet it differs from 4-5 cranks to 10 seconds each cylinder.
I was also planning to take off EGR and clean it/soak it overnight to see if it helps.
Have also changed PCV valve 2 weeks ago.
I'll try to do a video.
Chris

Ken,

I have a 3-4 minute video, but it's hard to tell with the cars going by in the background. Can't figure out how to upload it though (It says Filetype not allowed). I also found out that one of the small hoses (there are 2) from the throttle body to the intake/engine is leaking. Any idea what these hoses are or where I can find them? Been told they're heater hoses, coolant bypass hoses, throttle body hoses.
Thanks,
Chris

Ken, I got this picture from the internet of an e16i, 87 pulsar. These look just like the hoses I need. They're the ones just above the oil filter with the clamps on the ends. Those are the ends that connect with the throttle body. Thanks
Chris

Possibly. I just don't know the i.D. Of the hose. The worry is that the curve will kink the hose. Nissan said it's formed but discontinued.

Ken,
Got side tracked for a while.
I was able to get the old hoses off(one was so bad you could tear it with your finger)and replace'em with regular small heater hose. It's slightly kinked but more than enough coolant is able to get through. I've noticed now when the radiator is full(50/50 mix), that the idle is pretty good, but as it warms up it drops down then gets a little rough. Still stalls some but not as much as before.
Chris

Ken, thanks.

When the motor is cold the idle is pretty decent, but as it gets warmer, idle drops down and is rougher. I have throttle body as well as MAF sensor cleaner. How hard is it to pull the Throttle Body and clean it? Any special seals or gaskets needed after cleaning?
Thanks for all the info.
Chris