Runs then shuts off as soon as it gets to operating temp 210

Tiny
DANINROY
  • MEMBER
  • 1988 JEEP WRANGLER
  • 103,000 MILES
Will run an idle great, then when you go for test ride shuts off and wont start for about 20 min, replaced all ignition parts, finale one was ICM, ran fine an then shut off after test run, approx 5 min and have no spark at all, toook ICM back to get checked and they said it was bad, could something be shorting it out. Help
Sunday, July 7th, 2013 AT 11:12 AM

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Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
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258?

CARB.(MY KINDA JEEP)

LIST EVERY PART YOU REPLACED

I CONSIDER YOURS, "A NEWER JEEP"

LET'S SEE IF YOU CAN GIVE ME AN ESSAY THAT MIGHT BE 1/2 THE LENGTH OF THE ONES I WRITE BACK, ON THE HISTORY--MODIFICATIONS (ANY-ALL)---SEND GOOD, WELL LIT PICS WITH THE HOOD KICKED BACK ON THE WINDSHIELD, WITH THE BREATHER REMOVED

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC
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Sunday, July 7th, 2013 AT 12:33 PM
Tiny
DANINROY
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
First replaced the easy and cheaper, plugs and dist cap and wires, still acted up then replaced, coil, after noticing weak spark, after that the ICM and the ignition pick up located in the dist. As far as mods, all original nothing change except the emmision that comes off the cat has rotted off otherwise compete solid original for being a pa jeep was, owned by older couple and never touch sat in a barn till the guy I bought it off of again older couple no changes love it and reall y want to drive, it ran fine for 2 days then wam started stalling out
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Sunday, July 7th, 2013 AT 4:04 PM
Tiny
DANINROY
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  • 24 POSTS
Will try to do pics not to computer savy
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Sunday, July 7th, 2013 AT 4:05 PM
Tiny
DANINROY
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
The new wires you see on first pic are from the coil, apperently a mouse chewed the old one and these were a temp fix, until I solder and heat wrap
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Sunday, July 7th, 2013 AT 4:35 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
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I TOOK TO LONG TO SUBMIT MY NOVELI WAS TIMED OUT AND LOST THE WHOLE THING

I HAVE A FEW TESTS FOR YOU TO TRY

I WANNA KNOW IF WE LOSE "SPARK" OR "FUEL" DURING THE TIME HE GETS SICK AND WON'T BUST OFF

LETS' LOAD UP A LARGE WET TOWEL AND A FIRE EXTINGUISHERTOWEL IS 1ST LINE OF DEFENSE IN CASE OF A FIRE

NORMALLY, THE FUEL TEST WILL POINT US IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION

PUT A FEW OUNCES OF GAS INTO A SQUIRT BOTTLE

DRIVE AROUND TILL IT DIES

REMOVE THE BREATHER TOPDO YOU SMELL GAS REALLY BAD?

---IS THE CHOKE BUTTERFLY WIDE OPEN. IT SHOULD BE (REPORT THIS TO ME)

IF YOU SMELLED A LOT GAS, LET'S STOP HERE WITH THE FUEL TESTYOU GOTTA BE FLOODED FOR SOME REASON. NO PROBLEM!

IF NO GAS SMELL. GIVE THE CARB 5 OR FIVE SQUIRTS OF FUEL FROM THE BOTTLE

DOES IT START. DOES IT TRY. IS IT LIKE IT WAS BEFORE, WITH NO CHANGE

LET'S TAKE THAT BREATHER OFF AND SET IT ON THE GROUNDI WANT A WELL DAYLIGHT LIT PIC OF BOTH SIDES OF THE ENGINE FROM THE RADIATOR TO THE FIREWALLI WANNA SEE IT ALL AN OVERHEAD SHOT (HOOD ON WINDSHIELD) STANDING ON THE BUMPER WOULD BE NICE TOO!

DO YOU HAVE A VOLTMETER, KNOW HOW TO WORK IT MUCH AT ALL?

THE MEDIC
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Sunday, July 7th, 2013 AT 9:15 PM
Tiny
DANINROY
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
It shut down, no strong odor of gas, squirted few into carb, and yes butter fly open. Did not start, or try, also gave a shot of ether no good either. No spark from coil. Waited 15 min turned key started with no hesitation, and yes I do have a digital fluke meter know a little on how to use probably enough to be dangerous. Metered coil 1.3 on neg to pos ohmsturned key on had 12 volts to posts
thank you ahead of time for your help hoah
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Monday, July 8th, 2013 AT 12:08 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
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DO THIS

LEMME KNOW WHAT YOUR VALUES ARE

BEFORE. AND DURING THE "SAD TIME"

THE MEDIC
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Monday, July 8th, 2013 AT 2:07 PM
Tiny
DANINROY
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
Still wont start now spark put new ICM in went to start fired once then nothing,
metered pos side 11.48 neg side for curiousity showed 9.38 could wire have been crosed he has pos wire goining to a red an green / white stripe wire and neg going to solenoid?
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Tuesday, July 9th, 2013 AT 12:28 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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I SCANNED A WIRE DIAGRAM OUT OF A BOOK.I TOOK IT OVER TO "MICROSOFT PAINT" AND I COLORED EACH WIRE THE BEST I COULD, I SORTA HAD TO COMPROMISE ON WIRES WITH TRACER STRIPES (THE TRACER COLORS WERE UNKNOWN). THIS TOOK ME QUITE A WHILE, I THEN EMAILED THE 2 HALVES TO THE OFFICE PLACE AND HAD THEM BLOWN UP.I THEN MATED THE TWO, AND HAD THEM LAMINATE IT. THESE OLDER DIAGRAMS ARE BASICALLY ROAD MAPS FROM ONE END OF THE JEEP TO THE OTHER.

THE NEWER JEEP DIAGRAMS ARE SORTA LIKE FLOW CHARTS. THEY DO NOT WIND THEIR WAY AROUND TO THE NEXT CONNECTION. IT'S A "BLOCK" ON TOP OF A "BLOCK" ON TOP OF A "BLOCK" WITH LINES BETWEEN THEM. DESTINATIONS ARE FOUND FAST. BUT THEY CONFUSE ME SOMETIMES

I HAVE SCANNED SOME WRANGLER DIAGRAMS (I DON'T REMEMBER THE YEAR) BUT I HAVE NOT ATTEMPTED TO DO ANY COLORING OR TRIED TO PUT THE PIECES TOGETHER FOR A WRANGLER. YET

A BETTER PIC OF THOSE WIRES YOU ARE MENTIONING MIGHT HELP ME

I'M GONNA THROW YOU AN EXCERPT OF A 1979 CJ DIAGRAM. REMEMBER IT DID NOT HAVE A COMPUTER

THE '79 HAD 4 WIRES FROM THE IGNITION MODULE HEADING FOR THE COIL AND DISTRIBUTOR. ON A WRANGLER THE BLACK WIRE GOES THRU THE COMPUTER. TO MAKE THINGS (IGNITION) "NON-COMPUTER CONTROLLED". THE "NUTTER BY-PASS" IS PERFORMED. LET'S NOT GO THERE YET!.A SITUATION LIKE YOURS IS THE WHOLE REASON FOR DOING THE NUTTER. TO TAKE MR. COMPUTER OUT OF THE EQUATION COMPLETELY

DISREGARD THE "RESISTANCE WIRE". AND THE BLACK WIRE.I JUST WANT YOU TO SEE SORTA WHERE STUFF GOES INTO THE COIL, ETC

LEMME KNOW IF YOU SPOT A PROBLEM

WHILE AGO YOU SAID "HE"

HAS THIS BEEN RUNNING FOR YOU. IS THIS A PROBLEM YOU INHERITED FROM THE PREVIOUS OWNER?

I HAVE MORE TESTING FOR YOU. SEE IF ANY WIRES ARE SCUFFING ON SOMETHING/ OR SOMETHING HOT

AM I GOING TOO SLOW FOR YOU?

THE MEDIC
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Tuesday, July 9th, 2013 AT 2:19 PM
Tiny
DANINROY
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No you are doing fine, I like the less complicated words an the simple tests thanks again will try test now
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Tuesday, July 9th, 2013 AT 3:38 PM
Tiny
DANINROY
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
Okay, just bought it for my son ran fine for test, also on way home around 20 min drive. He took to work another 20 min ran fan next day started to die then would start after 20 min. No nothing at all only wires he said he touched were neg to coil and pos wire comes off connects to capicator and red wire to ICM and green to solenoid. Pics comming. Did test results are.361 lead to lead on cap then OL when I touch center and dist base, it is brand new just put in, but tested old same way got lead to lead.345 and center touched base 0.
I also probably jumped ahead and took all wires out of cable sheath and followed from coil to ICM, checked for visual defects none, keep help comming all is helpful and at least work in progress
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Tuesday, July 9th, 2013 AT 4:45 PM
Tiny
DANINROY
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
1 st pic of solenoid, 2 nd coil with doctored wires 3 rd uncovered wires, top of carb, battery and 2 relays, 6 pic doct wires and where they come out
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Tuesday, July 9th, 2013 AT 5:20 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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ARE YOU EMISSIONS TESTED IN YOUR REGION. ANY LENIENCY. WHAT DO THEY TEST. WHERE IS "YOUR REGION"

GONNA HAVE TO GIVE ME A BIT TO DIGEST THIS AND COME UP WITH A BATTLE PLAN

IN THE MEAN TIME

IT IS CONSISTENT IN DYING EVERY TIME ON A LONGER DRIVE?

IF SO,

WHAT KINDA COIL DID YOU GET. THE SUPER DOOPER ONE. OR THE CHEAPER OEM TYPE?

WHERE'D YOU GET IT. MODEL NUMBER?

DON'T BUY NUTHIN' ELSE YET. NOT EVEN WIPER BLADES. TILL WE GO A LITTLE FURTHER, LIKE WITH YOUR ANSWERS TO THESE QUESTIONS I JUST ASKED

WIRING IS HARD ENOUGH WITH YOUR HANDS ON IT. OVER THE NET IS A REAL CHALLENGE. ESPECIALLY WHEN IT'S REALLY BEEN MONKEYED WITH

YOUR TURN.I eat this stuff up! (CJs and early Wranglers. Carb Stuff and 258s). So don't think I'm getting tired of helpin' you

THE MEDIC
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Tuesday, July 9th, 2013 AT 10:41 PM
Tiny
DANINROY
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
Yes, it I consistent, oem stock duralast model number 03828 (autozone)
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Wednesday, July 10th, 2013 AT 11:44 AM
Tiny
DANINROY
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
No spark at all now, so wont start at all. Was running and just quit last time she was out
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Wednesday, July 10th, 2013 AT 11:47 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
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WE ARE NOW GONNA "BYPASS" THE IGNITION SYSTEM

............THIS WILL TELL US IF IT WILL RUN......AND WILL TELL US IF IT'S IN THE WIRING (OR COMPONENTS ALONG THE WAY)

SO.........IF ALL THE OTHER STUFF UNDER THE HOOD IS OK.....THIS WILL MAKE IT RUN

...........HOWEVER, TO MAKE IT STOP, YOU WILL HAVE TO DISCONNECT THE JUMPER AT THE BATTERY

YOU WILL STILL TURN THE KEY TO MAKE IT TURN OVER!

DO PIC 1

THE FUSE IN MY JUMPER IS "SHORT PROTECTION"........I LIKE TO PLAY IT SAFE!

THE REASON I COMPLETELY REMOVE THE COIL CAP IS TO GET RID OF ANY PROBLEM BACK TOWARDS THE KEY

WE WILL BE RUNNING OFF OF THE BATTERY/ COIL/ DISTRIBUTOR/ AND IGNITION MODULE (IF IT IS GOOD-IF IT GETS IT'S OWN POWER)

DON'T FRET IF THIS DON'T WORK----I CAN KEEP DIAGNOSING FOREVER!
.
.
.

LET'S TRY THIS IF WE DON'T HAVE POSITIVE RESULTS WITH THE IGNITION BYPASS

...............................OFF TO A POPULAR AUTO PARTS STORE, YOU GO....THEY USUALLY WILL TEST THESE FOR FREE

LETS WATCH AND SEE IF THEY HOOK UP RIGHT (IF YOU KINDA CAN READ THE CHART THEY ARE READING)

THEN HAVE THEM TEST IT 5-8 TIMES (THIS WILL WARM IT UP) SHOULD IT FAIL THE LAST FEW TESTS.....('COURSE THEY'LL SAY ONE TIME IS FINE....IT'S NOT!!!!)....AND YOU MIGHT SUFFER...NOT THEM!......SO MAKE 'EM DO IT!

WHAT IF IT FAILS?.............YES, REPLACE IT!

AS YOU PUT YOU HAND ON THEIR DOOR HANDLE TO LEAVE, WITH YOUR NEW ONE............

TURN YOUR BUTT RIGHT AROUND, GO BACK TO THE COUNTER, AND HAVE THEM TEST "THEIR" NEW ONE 5-8 TIMES.

WHY????

THERE'S NOTHING LIKE TEARING YOUR ENTIRE JEEP CJ 5 DOWN (EVEN THE WIRING) FOR 2 DAYS, TEARING YOUR HAIR OUT!.........BECAUSE, IT WILL NOT START!!! .......THEN YOU TAKE THE BRAND NEW, UNTESTED MODULE, BACK TO THE STORE, ONLY TO FIND OUT.....IT TOO, WAS BAD!......................................BEEN THERE, DONE THAT......ONLY ONCE!

BELOW IS A PIC OF THE TESTER AT ADVANCE AUTO......THE CORRECT PIG-TAIL(S) TO TEST YOURS IS RIGHT BESIDE THE MACHINE (I PUT THEM THERE!)

PIC 1) TEST THIS WAY

PICS 2 AND 3) THIS WAY LEAVES THE WIRES TO THE IGNITION SWITCH "IN" THE EQUATION....IF THERE IS A DEAD SHORT ALONG THE WAY.....IT'LL GROUND OUT OUR BYPASS ATTEMPT TOO....SO DO IT THE OTHER WAY (PIC 1).............................DOING IT THIS WAY (PICS 2 AND 3) YOU SHOULD BE USING THE FUSE IN THE JUMPER, FOR SURE!

PICS 4 AND 5) THIS IS THE MODULE TESTER AT ADVANCE AUTO PARTS........IS THIS A STORE NEAR YOU?

PIC 6) SOME OF MY CJ MANUALS

SEE THIS LINK........"A124" WAS WORKING TODAY!.......I HAVE NO CLUE WHEN IT WILL EXPIRE, IT'S WORKED FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW!

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2001-dodge-neon-milage-just-want-put-fliuds-their-locations

SORRY IT TOOK ME SO LONG.....IT'S 23:50 HRS EST RIGHT NOW....I'VE BEEN BUSY ALL DAY........I ALWAYS TAKE CARE OF THE JEEP GUYS (ONE'S WITH A FOLD DOWN WINDSHIELD ANYWAY).....DON'T THINK I'M ABANDONING YOU!

REMEMBER....I'M ATTEMPTING TO TRANSLATE "CJ" INTO "WRANGLER" THE BEST I CAN

AS YOU CAN SEE, I HAVE MEGA HOME-MADE PICS AND LITERATURE

THE MEDIC

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Wednesday, July 10th, 2013 AT 9:11 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,005 POSTS
PICS 4 AND 5 WERE TAKEN WITH MY CANON EOS REBEL. THEY JUST WON'T POST IN THIS "NEWLY REMODELLED" 2CARPROS SITE (THEY WORKED BEFORE).I TRIED 4 TIMES. GONNA HAVE TO EMAIL "HIGHER UP" TO SEE WHAT'S WRONG

I'M POSTING PIC 6. SEEMS THE KODAK EZ SHARE CHEAP CAMERA PICS WORK JUST FINE!

THE MEDIC
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Wednesday, July 10th, 2013 AT 9:31 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,005 POSTS
I JUST LOOKED FOR THE AUTOZONE COIL

CANNOT FIND IT

LOOK AT AUTOZONE. COM, PUNCH IN YOUR INFO. THEY SHOW 3 COILS. NONE WITH THAT NUMBER

2 HAVE LIFETIME WARRANTY'S

MAYBE THIS IS YOUR PROBLEM. RESISTANCE WIRE IN YOUR SYSTEM. NEED COIL WITHOUT INTERNAL RESISTOR

IN OTHER WORDS, YOU MAY NOW HAVE "DOUBLE THE RESISTANCE" IF YOU HAVE THE WRONG COIL

WITH YOUR KEY "ON". YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE BATTERY VOLTAGE AT THE COIL. IT SHOULD BE REDUCED. LIKE 6-8 VOLTS

DIFFERENT SYSTEMS (IN JEEPS TOO) REDUCE THE VOLTS TO THE COIL

1) MY 1946 WILLYS HAS POINTS. IT USES A BALLAST RESISTOR. AND A COIL LIKE IN MY PIC (NO INTERNAL RESISTOR (THE BALLAST RESISTOR IS THE REDUCTION

2) MY 1977 C 5 (CURRENT EVERYDAY DRIVER) "HAD" PRESTO-LITE IGNITION THE COIL HAD A RESISTOR MADE INTO IT

2a) I HAVE SINCE GOTTEN RID OF THE CRAPPY PRESTO-LITE SYSTEM. WHICH MEANT I HAD TO REPLACE THE DISTRIBUTOR AND IGN MODULE AND DO SOME SIMPLE RE-WIRING. IT NOW HAS A "MOTORCRAFT" (LIKE IN A 1979-YOURS). SINCE IT ORIGINALLY DID NOT HAVE A "RESISTANCE WIRE" (LIKE 1979 0N UP).I ADDED A "BALLAST RESISTOR" (TO TAKE THE RESISTANCE WIRES PLACE).I DID THIS SO THAT ALL 1979 IGNITION PARTS WOULD BE EZ TO OBTAIN WHEN THEY NEED REPLACING (NO-MIS MATCHING COILS. IT'D BE LIKE AN OEM 1979). THE ONLY THING DIFFERENT FROM THE 1979 AND THAN THE '77 IS THE BALLAST RESISTOR I ADDED

3) 1979 ON UP HAS A WIRE (A WIRE WITH RESISTANCE) (SEE DIAGRAM. THIS IS HOW I UPGRADED MY '77) THE COIL DOES NOT HAVE A RESISTOR IN IT. IF IT DID (LIKE USING A '77 OEM COIL) THE RESISTANCE WOULD SORTA DOUBLE OR EXPONENTIALLY MULTIPLY (I'M NOT AN ELECTRONICS WHIZ) SO. BASICALLY, YOU WOULD HAVE TOO LOW OF VOLTAGE TO RUN THE COIL

. WELL, I JUMPED OUTTA BED TO WRITE THIS (IT JUST SORTA "HIT ME").I RECKON I SHOULDA CHECKED OUT YOUR COIL NUMBERS 1ST. BEFORE SHOWING YOU ALL OF THE BYPASS STUFF

I CARRY A DECENT TOOL SET (IN A 4" TALL BOX I BUILT UNDER MY BACK SEAT).A FUEL PUMP. AN IGNITION MODULE. AND A COIL IN MY CONSOLE. THESE ARE EZ TO REPLACE PARTS THAT HAVE LEFT ME ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. NOW THAT I HAVE THEM, I HAVEN'T NEEDED THEM. BUT 2 OTHER CJs I RAN ACROSS WERE REALLY HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY, WHEN I "SOLD" AND "INSTALLED" THE FUEL PUMP ON ONE. THE IGN MODULE ON THE OTHER

I'M BETTING ON THE WRONG COIL THEORY !

YOUR TURN. IT'S NOW 01:35 EST. GOTTA WORK 10:00-18:00 LATER TODAY!

THE MEDIC
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Wednesday, July 10th, 2013 AT 10:36 PM
Tiny
DANINROY
  • MEMBER
  • 24 POSTS
Tried test no start and checked coil no spark, also checked coil it does say external resistor.
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Thursday, July 11th, 2013 AT 11:58 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
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'JU TAKE MR. MODULE TO AN AUTO PARTS STORE FOR MULTIPLE TEST RUNS?

I'D LIKE TO KNOW HOW THAT IS GOING. BEFORE WE ATTEMPT SOME PROBING INTO THE WIRING TO SEE WHAT WORKS. AND WHAT DON'T (I DON'T LIKE BACK-TRACKING)

IF YOU DID THE BYPASS TEST CORRECTLY

THEN. THIS STUFF IS WHAT MUST BE CHECKED OUT. THE BATTERY/ COIL/ DISTRIBUTOR/ AND IGNITION MODULE (IF IT IS GOOD-IF IT GETS IT'S OWN POWER). BECAUSE IT SHOULDA RUN, IF THESE ITEMS WERE WORKING

WE WILL GET TO DOING MORE TESTING WHEN WE GET RESULTS ABOUT THE IGNITION MODULE.I'VE BOUGHT, AND SEEN OTHERS WHO HAVE. GET A BAD ONE RIGHT OUT OF THE BOX

STILL NO WORD ON WHETHER "ADVANCE AUTO PARTS" IS A NEIGHBORHOOD STORE FOR YOU?

EMISSION TESTING

PART OF COUNTRY YOU ARE IN

RESULTS OF DISTRIBUTOR TESTS (LAST REPLY ON PAGE 1)?

ANY PROBLEMS WITH MY TESTS/ EXPLANATIONS?

ARE WE STILL JEEP BUDDIES, EVEN THOUGH YOU ARE NOT FIXED YET?

A YOUNG JEEP PAL OF MINE (COLLEGE STUDENT WITH A '81 CJ 5) HAS BEEN LEARNING HOW TO FIX HIS, AT MY HOUSE. HE WAS JEALOUS OF MY M-416 ARMY JEEP TRAILER (1ST PIC), SO HE FOUND AND BOUGHT A 1946 "SPEN" TRAILER TO PULL BEHIND HIS JEEP (2ND PIC).I LET HIM DRIVE "WILLY" WHEN WE WENT ON AN ERRAND. HE FELL IN LOVE WITH HIM! (WHO WOULDN'T?). NOW HE SAYS HE'S GOTTA HAVE A WILLYS TOO. HIS JEEP AND "WILLY" IN THESE NEXT PICS

THE MEDIC
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Thursday, July 11th, 2013 AT 5:15 PM

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