Runs, moves, but the stops moving

Good morning,

I would verify the fluid level for the transmission to be sure it is correct.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

If that is okay, I would change the fluid as dirty fluid will cause this issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-service-an-automatic-transmission

Beyond that, you may have an internal failure requiring removal and inspection of the transmission.

Roy

Transmission Fluid Drain and Refill

Removal
1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Place a suitable container under the transaxle drain plug.


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3. NOTE: If an integral problem is suspected, drain the fluid through a paper filter. A small amount of metal or friction particles may be found from normal wear. However, if excessive metal and friction particles are present, internal service will be required.

Remove the transaxle drain plug and drain transmission fluid.

Installation


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1. Install the transaxle drain plug.
After the fluid has been drained, clean the drain plug threads and apply a small amount of Pipe Sealant with Teflon 09 D8AZ- 19554-A or XW7Z-19554-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G350-A2.
2. Lower the vehicle
3. Add 3.7 liters (3.9 quarts) of MERCON(R) V Automatic Transmission Fluid XT-5-QM or equivalent meeting MERCON(R) V specification.
4. Start the engine and run through all gears for a total of five minutes at idle. Turn off the engine.
5. Repeat the previous steps to help flush fluid from the torque converter.

So would replacing the transmission shaft speed output/input sensors be a waste?

No, I would not replace them at all. Those sensors have nothing to do with engagement of the transmission.

Roy

I let it warm up and checked fluid level. There’s a small amount of black or gray powder substance in the fluid(fine metal) and there’s a burnt smell. Plan on draining fluid and taking pan of transmission this weekend to see if I fine any other metal.

Good idea.

Keep me updated.

Roy

Drained fluid and it was really really dark. I couldn’t even see through it and it looked like motor oil. I should have filtered it they a cloth to look for metal chucks. I found an article that says the filter doesn’t need to be changed just the fluid ever 30,000 miles. Not sure of maintenance record but I’m going to just change it and see what that does and go from there.

I still have the same problem but now at least when I turn car off and back on it will move for a little bit more.

Then it sounds like you have an internal failure.

The transmission will have to be removed and inspected for the failure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/transmission-replacement-removal-manual

Roy

Do you think that flushing the whole transmission fluid system might solve problem because of how the 3.9 quarts looked or just have the transmission looked at?

I doubt it very much. You most likely need either a rebuild or replacement transmission.

Roy

What years have compatibility with 2001?

Stick to the same year. They make changes on the electronics from year to year. If you got one that was different, it will not work and there is no adapting it to another year.

You can go to www.car-part.com and enter your information and your zip code and they will show you all the yards with the correct transmission for your car.

Roy

Now I’m getting a p1714 shift solenoid a inductive signature code.

Yes, it could be a shift solenoid but has no effect on the car not engaging the transmission.

I attached the flow chart for the code as it could be the solenoid or valve body but in your case, it will not help the transmission to engage into gear.

Roy

But it does engage it just disengages after a few minutes.

It sounds like you have a bad front pump in the transmission. It is not producing enough pressure.

I attached a picture of the front pump assembly for you.


Roy