Runs, idles great, but bogs, will not Move low engine power

Tiny
JAREDFWALKER
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 ACURA TL
  • 3.2L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 125,312 MILES
It starts and run idles fine but bogs out when the accelerator is depressed. It can be revved up if accelerator is feathered and lightly depressed and will rev up after you get it to rev up. But once it is put into gear all power is lost. It is still running but will not go, it just bogs down and does not have any power. It does not have any codes nor will it throw a code. I have checked for vacuum Leaks, coil packs, check for codes (none), catalytic converter (good), all sensors check out good. I have had two mechanics look at it and they cannot figure out what is wrong. I have replaced TPS, fuel pump/filter, passenger side o2 sensor, map sensor, plugs. Please help!
Thursday, January 4th, 2018 AT 6:24 AM

13 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,643 POSTS
Hello,

It sounds like you have a plugged exhaust system which can be tested by removing the head pipe bolts and then trying it. Also, the camshaft timing can be off which can be tested by checking the compression.

Here are guides to help us get started figuring out the problem:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

Please run this test and get back to us.

Cheers, Ken
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, January 5th, 2018 AT 1:52 PM
Tiny
JAREDFWALKER
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Thank you for your response. But the exhaust is clear and has been checked by three or four mechanics. The compression has also been checked. The car runs great. Idles great, but bogs down when the accelerator is pressed. The transmission was replaced 1,670 miles ago and works great. I have replaced the battery, alternator, the TPS, fuel pump and filter, all the fuses, bank 1 P2 sensor, belts, map sensor. The fuel pressure gas been checked. I think it is either the ECU or the alarm system has it emobilized some how. Every time I replace a new part it runs so much better. Purrs like a kitten. But it will not go. Push the gas pedal and bogs, let off and it runs/idles fine. It will not throw a code. I can unplug the o2 sensors or the IAC, or the coil packs, the injectors, etc, and it will throw a code then. But not unless they are disconnected. I have spent over $2,000.00 and I am still stranded. It is my only car and I am disabled. I am very desperate to figure this out. Soon and cheap. Please help!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, January 6th, 2018 AT 5:16 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning.

Does it matter if it is in gear or not?

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, January 6th, 2018 AT 5:20 AM
Tiny
JAREDFWALKER
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
I have checked every single hose for vacuum leaks. I have had the car brought back to my house three times because the shops cannot figure out what is wrong. When put on a computer it checks out fine. They say it is in perfect running condition. Now I do not know what else to do.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, January 6th, 2018 AT 5:22 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Does it matter if it is in gear? Does it rev up if it is not in gear?

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, January 6th, 2018 AT 5:24 AM
Tiny
JAREDFWALKER
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Yes once it is in gear or there any type of load put on the engine it bogs and loses power. It will run and idle but will not go. If I get it to start revving up by feathering the pedal the engine starts racing and revving like normal but turn on the A/C or put it in reverse or drive and it loses power and bogs out. It has no power. It goes into all gears and tries to move but the loss of power stops it. It is acting exactly like a clogged catalytic converter or a bad coil or bad injectors. But all have been checked. All have been good. And it still shows no codes even after letting it sit running for two hours. No one has been able to figure it out. Any suggestions?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, January 6th, 2018 AT 7:18 AM
Tiny
JAREDFWALKER
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
The car ran great. Then one day driving down the road a car pull onto the road and I had to slow down to avoid the car. I did not have to slam on the brakes just a slow and gradual slow down, when I let off the brake it started bogging down and was still going but losing power would not catch up. It finally had enough power going down hill to get me about a mile then would not get us up the slight incline in the road, it was not really a hill either just a slight incline. The car was still running. Sounded just fine idling. But bogged down every time the gas pedal was pushed. After taking it to several shops and had many mechanics replace a lot of expensive parts it still is working. Runs and idles better. But will not go.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, January 6th, 2018 AT 7:29 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
I agree with Ken on possible cataytic converter clogged. It is a test where they put a device in where the O2 sensor to measure the back pressure. That will confirm if it is clogged. It will not code for a clogged converter. That is a mechanical issue. There are no codes for mechanical failures.

Also, I am concerned about the transmission. If the torques converter is locked up it will do this but only when it is in gear.

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, January 6th, 2018 AT 7:45 AM
Tiny
JAREDFWALKER
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Thank you all for your responses! Your ideas are great and help give me a few more avenues to look down. The catalytic converter is new. So that is not the problem. I am going through it now and removed the injectors and noticed that there are little screen in the top of them. But out of the six injectors only five had the screens the last one by the fire wall on the driver's side did not have a screen. Is this going to cause a problem?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, January 6th, 2018 AT 9:08 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
The only effect is that it will not trap and debris from the fuel system.

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, January 6th, 2018 AT 9:59 AM
Tiny
JAREDFWALKER
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Thanks everyone. I cleaned the injectors and was able to get the car to go by feathering the pedal and drove it around the block 6 or 7 times it seemed like it was getting better. It shifted thru the gears fine, but once it got hot it barely would move. Still no codes. Any ideas?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, January 8th, 2018 AT 11:12 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,643 POSTS
If the exhaust is not the issue I would need to lean toward the timing belt being off one tooth. Here is a guide so we can double check the engine timing.

https://www.2carpros.com/diagrams/acura/3.2tl/1998

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, January 8th, 2018 AT 12:06 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
At this point, I would start with a compression test

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, January 8th, 2018 AT 5:11 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links