Will not start after connecting the battery cables incorrectly

Hi,

I'm really surprised it started. I assume by no crank, you mean the starter isn't working. Do me a favor. I attached the wiring schematic below for the starting system.

First, see if it will start in neutral.

If there is no change, I need you to go to the starter and first confirm there is 12v at all times to the black wire with a blue tracer. If there is, have a helper turn the key to the start position while you check for voltage to the smaller gauge black wire with a yellow tracer.

If there is power, replace the starter. If there is no power, go to the starter relay in the under-hood relay box. If there is another relay with the same part number, switch them and see if it cranks. If there isn't, here is a link that explains how to test a relay.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Let me know what you find.

Joe

See pic

Hi,

I was thinking the starter wasn't working. If it is, I want you to try something for me. See if it starts for a couple of seconds using starting fluid. If it does and stalls, then we know the fuel pump isn't working.

As far as the fuel pump relay is concerned, if you are certain the relay is good and you don't hear it close/click, chances are the primary side of the relay isn't getting power.

Here is how this works. There are four terminals on the relay. One will have power at all times, one will have power with the key on, one is a ground, and one sends power to the fuel pump.

If you look closely at the bottom of the relay, you should find four numbers, one for each pin. They should be 30, 85, 86, and 87. Pins 85 and 86 are the primary side. If you look at the pic below, it shows the relay. The black/white wire and the white/red wire are the primary. Power is supplied via the black/white wire. The PCM provides a ground via the white/red wire completing the circuit which causes an electromagnetic field in the relay's primary side. When that happens, it causes the secondary side, which is nothing but a switch, to close sending power from once again a black/white wire through the relay's no closed secondary, and out through a blue/white wire direct to the pump.

If there is nothing clicking, the problem is likely the primary side not getting power to close the switch. So, what I need you to do is this. I need you to confirm that the pins connected to the black/white wires (identified as numbers 3 and 4 in the schematic below) have power
with the key on.

Here is a link you may find helpful when testing:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Also, I need you to recheck the multi-function fuses 10 and 11 in the multi-purpose junction box under the dash, left side. Not only check the fuse but also make sure the fuse is receiving power to and from it. See pic 2

Let me know what you find or if you have questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.