Does not start

Hello,

You need to check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Even though the pump is turning on, it might not provide enough fuel to the injectors to start the engine. Also have you checked the fuel quality. When a vehicle sits for an extended period of time the fuel tends to go bad by accumulation of moisture.
There is a test port on the fuel rail that you can attach a test gauge to check the pressure. Those gauges can be borrowed from your local auto parts store.
With the key on and engine off it should have 30-38 PSI of fuel pressure at the rail.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

You could have low pressure due to a clog in the fuel system, like a dirty fuel filter. It can also be a bad fuel pressure regulator.

When the key is in the on position it is normal to have those light illuminated. It is just a system check. But after startup they should go off, unless there is an issue.

I have attached diagrams for your reference.

Please let me know of any questions.
Thank you.

Hi,

Thank you very much for sending the very useful information. I really appreciated your prompt response.

I ordered a new fuel filter after seeing the poor external condition.
Who knows...? I will install it tomorrow and maybe the motor will start and run. I will test fuel pressure using O'Reilley's test equipment.

I need your help once again. I cannot locate a Schindler port to hook up the pressure gauge. I can use a clear picture of where I have to connect the pressure gauge.

I will keep you posted on status.

Thanks again ! Your service is awesome!

Andy

You are welcome.
Look at the picture below. The fuel pressure test port should be in the red circle area. I could not find any better picture than this.

Hello again,

Thanks for your quick response and excellent quality photo of the area to look for a connection to test the fuel pressure.

This morning I installed a new gas filter following established install procedures. All went well, however, after priming the new filter by turning ignition key to on w/o starting the car... the car did not start.

This afternoon I will try again to look for a connection point to test the fuel pressure (FP).

Here's a new question for you... Let's say that after the FP test the readings are w/in limits. What next steps would you recommend for me to try?

Again. I am very grateful for your great assistance.

Enjoy your day,

Andy

If the fuel pressure is good, then it could be due to weak spark or a sensor. Like a crank sensor being faulty. Which will allow the engine to crank but not start.

Let me know how the fuel test go.

Hi,

Wow, thanks for the quick reply!!! I checked my email and there it was. I was not expecting it so quickly - thanks again for your excellent assistance!

I looked for the Schindler port. It turns out that the 94 Probe does not have one! Discovered this when I searched online to find out where the Shindler port is on a 1994, 4-cylinder Mazda 626's fuel rail. I discovered that neither car ever had one.

I suppose I can add a Schindler valve that is mounted on a brass T fitting and splice the fitting into the gas line supplying the fuel rail. I have to find a suitable T fitting online.

In the meantime, I will look at the crank sensor. BTW... is there a way to test if that sensor is working?

Also, what other things can do you think can cause a weak spark on this 94 Probe?

Darn, I thought I could have gotten the car running today.

I have thought about the feasibility of removing the air filter housing and using starting fluid to see if the engine fires. If it fires and begins to briefly run, then it is a sign that the crank sensor works, and spark is working as well.

Your thoughts on all of this are appreciated.

Andy

I think using starting fluid can answer few questions, as if it starts with the starting fluid then you know the issue is fuel. If it does not start, then you would be at the same spot as you are now.

The crank sensor is located inside the distributor (see diagram below). You will need to check the resistance between the pins of the sensor. Unfortunately, Ford does not provide the ideal resistance range for the Probe. But it should not be open circuit when you test it.

Hello,

OMG! Great diagrams!! Thanks for sending and thanks for sharing your pearls of wisdom on helping me with the 1994 Ford Probe no start challenge.

I remember the old days when cars were low tech electronically, were easier to work on, and the engine compartment was big enough providing easier access to do repairs.

Tomorrow, I'll try the starting fluid test and will go from there. I will let you know how it all turns out.

Andy

You are welcome. Keep me posted.

TGIF!

I sprayed 2 puffs of starting fluid (containing 50% ether) and the Probe started for a second. I repeated it giving it 3 puffs and it started like a normal car, but apparently there is some fuel or other issue.

I will look into crankshaft sensor, and will hot wire tge fuel pump and try again.

When the car ignited, I also heard aloud squeaky noise. Sounded like a belt. So that's another thing to look at. Maybe, I did not tighten the alternator belt enough when I put a new one in. But it deflected 1/2", so who knows.

I wonder if you have any other thoughts now thar we know that the ignition system works. At this point the spark plugs, wires, coil, air intake, and timing belt appear to be okay.

I had my wife turn the key to the on position while I crawled under where the gas tank is supposed to be. I was unable to clearly hear the fuel pump activating. I hear a faint muffled sound.

When inside the car and I turn the key to on I can hear a fuel pump type of noise that comes on momentarily then disappears. The annoying ignition bell sound activates when key in "on" making it hard to hear.

BTW... do you think there could be some transmission sensor or control that would keep the car from starting?

It was exciting to briefly hear the motor run for a second or two after 7 years of dormancy in my garage.

Any more pearls of wisdom you can send my way is most appreciated by yours truly, and the "reawakened" Probe.

Andy

Since it started with the starting fluid, you know that the issue is with the fuel. If it were an ignition issue it would not have started.
There is fuel shut off inertia switch in the trunk. Try resetting that switch. The inertia switch is designed to shut off fuel in the event of a collision, it is a safety device.
It is located under the carpet on the rear left corner of the luggage compartment.

Thanks a bunch for this info! I do have one question. What if I push on the red switch and it does not move?

You should be able to push the switch.
If it is seized and you are unable to push it then likely the switch is bad.

Okay, thanks!

I will get to the switch tomorrow a.m. Wish I could have done it today, but we had company over

I'll keep you posted as to outcome of this new try.

If I don't hear from you, have a great weekend!

Thanks again for your timely responses and very useful Probe related graphics and step-by-step guidelines. All of your help has been super!

Andy

You are welcome, Andy. Let me know how it turns out.

Hi,

I was under the weather yesterday and did not work on the car.

Today, I removed the L-rear quarter interior panel and took out the switch. The button was down. So, I shook the switch and it popped up as it should in a collision. I pressed the red dot down and it reset. I tested the switch connection for power, and all was okay. So, I suppose the fuel cut-off switch is okay.

That leaves the fuel pump as being dead, or there is something plugging the fuel delivery system.

I bet the fuel pump is toast. What are the chances of having a plugged fuel line?

I read online that access the fuel pump access is available under the rear seat in Probes built before 1993. Unfortunately, my does not. I did see a video of a guy who measured accurately and determined the pump location. He then proceeded to carefully use a hand cut-off saw, cut into the floor, and the opening was right over the pump. This prevented him from dropping the tank and replaced the electric pump motor.

I am not going to do that. So, I ask if you know what an approximate cost would be to have the pump replaced by a mechanic, certainly not by a dealer.

Again, your help has been terrific enabling me.to get this far. Thank you!

Andy

So, when you turn the key to the on position (not start/run), can you hear the fuel pump come on?
If you can hear the pump, then it is powering up. Now it still can be a weak pump, but since the vehicle has been sitting for a while, it could have a clog in the system if you are not getting fuel to the injectors.
If the issue is not the pump, you just don't want to spend money and time on it.

Let me know your thoughts.

Good morning,

Thank you for getting back to me and sending the fuel tank diagrams.

Here's what I hear regarding the fuel pump:

1. Sitting inside car, windows and doors closed:
a. I turn key to on
b. I hear a faint sound (weak hum-like) it sounds like it's coming from the dashboard, although it may be reflected sound from glass surfaces - and the Probe has lots of these.

2. Wife turns key to on car is closed - that is windows and doors:
a. I opened the gas filler door, removed the gas cap, held open the spring-loaded round metal piece (where the gas station filling nozzle goes in), then...

b. I asked wife to turn key to on while I listen with my ear by the fuel door close to the open filler pipe.
- the first time I thought I heard the faint hum.
- on the second turn key to on try, I don't think I heard it. It was windy (Probe is on driveway), plus the annoying chime that comes on when key is in on position interferes when trying to listen.

Here's a question for you:

What can I do (and what to look for) to see if there's a clog in the fuel system?

Is there a way to test the injectors for clogs?

I though this may be a last effort before lowering the fuel tank.

Your thoughts on this are welcome, big time!

Andy

Typically, when you turn on the key the fuel pump should be obvious to hear. It will be a noticeable hum especially if you are trying to listen for it at the fuel tank.

If the pump was operational, you will have fuel pressure to the fuel rail.
Since there is not a fuel pressure checking port, try this: Locate the fuel filter, unplug the hose the comes from the fuel tank. Then turn on the key. If the pump is operational, you should get some fuel squirting out. Just watch out for fuel spraying all over.

If the pump is not coming on then check the fuel pump relay if you have not already.
It is located in under the hood fuse box.
Here is how to test a relay:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Hi again,

Thanks for sharing your thoughts and sending the diagrams, and "how to" relay testing info.

I will go and try your suggestion as soon as the weather permits. Unfortunately, it has been raining on and off here, and the car is outside. I hope the rain will stop later this afternoon. If not, I will give it a shot tomorrow morning.

Thank you so much!!!!

Andy

You are welcome. Let me know what you find.

Will do.

Andy

Hello!

The rain has finally stopped. It's the fuel pump.

I got into the car with closed doors, and this time put the seatbelt on to silence the ding sounds.

I turned the key to acc and then to on. There was a sound all right, but it was the fuel pump relay clicking every time I tried the on position. This is what I faintly heard before because of the dinging going on.

So, the problem is the fuel pump. I'm thinking of replacing it myself. Not sure yet. Maybe I can have a local shop do it if the price is right.

Hey, without your excellent help, graphics, and guidance I could not have gotten this far. Nonetheless, it felt good to troubleshoot it with your help.

So, this is where things stand today. I plan to get some estimates to get I fixed. If the estimates come in high, then I will install the new pump myself.

I can't thank you enough!!! Just know that by helping me and other individuals seeking your help, you make a huge positive difference by sharing your expertise.

Thanks again for taking your valuable time to help me find a cure to my 1994 Probe ES..

Andy

I hope

It is my pleasure.

Did you get a chance to test the relay or swap it with a similar relay to see if you might have a bad relay?

I removed the relay and tested it and it clicked.

I used a test method following instructions from a fuel test video on YouTube.

Got it. Do let me know how it turns out.

I'll keep you posted.

Great.

Hello again. I removed fuel tank, replaced fuel pump. After pressurizing the fuel system, the 94 Probe started after 10+ years of storage in my garage. I noticed some smoke coming from the engine compartment after running the motor for about 15 minutes. I wonder if the valve cover gasket has a leak because it smelled like burnt hydrocarbons/motor oil.

Thank for your excellent help!
Andy

So, it is running?
That is great!!
The smoke could simply be from dirt and debris built-up around the engine.

It was getting dark (4:45) pm when I started the car. Today I'll look around and try to
determine where the smoke is coming for. - Andy

Sounds good. If you have any questions, just open a new thread. That way it will be at the top for all the experts to see.
Simply go to this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Thank you.