Does not start

Hi,

Thank you very much for sending the very useful information. I really appreciated your prompt response.

I ordered a new fuel filter after seeing the poor external condition.
Who knows? I will install it tomorrow and maybe the motor will start and run. I will test fuel pressure using O'Reilley's test equipment.

I need your help once again. I cannot locate a Schindler port to hook up the pressure gauge. I can use a clear picture of where I have to connect the pressure gauge.

I will keep you posted on status.

Thanks again ! Your service is awesome!

Andy

Hello again,

Thanks for your quick response and excellent quality photo of the area to look for a connection to test the fuel pressure.

This morning I installed a new gas filter following established install procedures. All went well, however, after priming the new filter by turning ignition key to on w/o starting the car. The car did not start.

This afternoon I will try again to look for a connection point to test the fuel pressure (FP).

Here's a new question for you. Let's say that after the FP test the readings are w/in limits. What next steps would you recommend for me to try?

Again. I am very grateful for your great assistance.

Enjoy your day,

Andy

Hi,

Wow, thanks for the quick reply! I checked my email and there it was. I was not expecting it so quickly - thanks again for your excellent assistance!

I looked for the Schindler port. It turns out that the 94 Probe does not have one! Discovered this when I searched online to find out where the Shindler port is on a 1994, 4-cylinder Mazda 626's fuel rail. I discovered that neither car ever had one.

I suppose I can add a Schindler valve that is mounted on a brass T fitting and splice the fitting into the gas line supplying the fuel rail. I have to find a suitable T fitting online.

In the meantime, I will look at the crank sensor. BTW. Is there a way to test if that sensor is working?

Also, what other things can do you think can cause a weak spark on this 94 Probe?

Darn, I thought I could have gotten the car running today.

I have thought about the feasibility of removing the air filter housing and using starting fluid to see if the engine fires. If it fires and begins to briefly run, then it is a sign that the crank sensor works, and spark is working as well.

Your thoughts on all of this are appreciated.

Andy

Hello,

OMG! Great diagrams! Thanks for sending and thanks for sharing your pearls of wisdom on helping me with the 1994 Ford Probe no start challenge.

I remember the old days when cars were low tech electronically, were easier to work on, and the engine compartment was big enough providing easier access to do repairs.

Tomorrow, I'll try the starting fluid test and will go from there. I will let you know how it all turns out.

Andy

TGIF!

I sprayed 2 puffs of starting fluid (containing 50% ether) and the Probe started for a second. I repeated it giving it 3 puffs and it started like a normal car, but apparently there is some fuel or other issue.

I will look into crankshaft sensor, and will hot wire tge fuel pump and try again.

When the car ignited, I also heard aloud squeaky noise. Sounded like a belt. So that's another thing to look at. Maybe, I did not tighten the alternator belt enough when I put a new one in. But it deflected 1/2", so who knows.

I wonder if you have any other thoughts now thar we know that the ignition system works. At this point the spark plugs, wires, coil, air intake, and timing belt appear to be okay.

I had my wife turn the key to the on position while I crawled under where the gas tank is supposed to be. I was unable to clearly hear the fuel pump activating. I hear a faint muffled sound.

When inside the car and I turn the key to on I can hear a fuel pump type of noise that comes on momentarily then disappears. The annoying ignition bell sound activates when key in "on" making it hard to hear.

BTW. Do you think there could be some transmission sensor or control that would keep the car from starting?

It was exciting to briefly hear the motor run for a second or two after 7 years of dormancy in my garage.

Any more pearls of wisdom you can send my way is most appreciated by yours truly, and the "reawakened" Probe.

Andy

Thanks a bunch for this info! I do have one question. What if I push on the red switch and it does not move?

Okay, thanks!

I will get to the switch tomorrow a.M. Wish I could have done it today, but we had company over

I'll keep you posted as to outcome of this new try.

If I don't hear from you, have a great weekend!

Thanks again for your timely responses and very useful Probe related graphics and step-by-step guidelines. All of your help has been super!

Andy

Hi,

I was under the weather yesterday and did not work on the car.

Today, I removed the L-rear quarter interior panel and took out the switch. The button was down. So, I shook the switch and it popped up as it should in a collision. I pressed the red dot down and it reset. I tested the switch connection for power, and all was okay. So, I suppose the fuel cut-off switch is okay.

That leaves the fuel pump as being dead, or there is something plugging the fuel delivery system.

I bet the fuel pump is toast. What are the chances of having a plugged fuel line?

I read online that access the fuel pump access is available under the rear seat in Probes built before 1993. Unfortunately, my does not. I did see a video of a guy who measured accurately and determined the pump location. He then proceeded to carefully use a hand cut-off saw, cut into the floor, and the opening was right over the pump. This prevented him from dropping the tank and replaced the electric pump motor.

I am not going to do that. So, I ask if you know what an approximate cost would be to have the pump replaced by a mechanic, certainly not by a dealer.

Again, your help has been terrific enabling me. To get this far. Thank you!

Andy

Good morning,

Thank you for getting back to me and sending the fuel tank diagrams.

Here's what I hear regarding the fuel pump:

1. Sitting inside car, windows and doors closed:
a. I turn key to on
b. I hear a faint sound (weak hum-like) it sounds like it's coming from the dashboard, although it may be reflected sound from glass surfaces - and the Probe has lots of these.

2. Wife turns key to on car is closed - that is windows and doors:
a. I opened the gas filler door, removed the gas cap, held open the spring-loaded round metal piece (where the gas station filling nozzle goes in), then.

B. I asked wife to turn key to on while I listen with my ear by the fuel door close to the open filler pipe.
- the first time I thought I heard the faint hum.
- on the second turn key to on try, I don't think I heard it. It was windy (Probe is on driveway), plus the annoying chime that comes on when key is in on position interferes when trying to listen.

Here's a question for you:

What can I do (and what to look for) to see if there's a clog in the fuel system?

Is there a way to test the injectors for clogs?

I though this may be a last effort before lowering the fuel tank.

Your thoughts on this are welcome, big time!

Andy

Hi again,

Thanks for sharing your thoughts and sending the diagrams, and "how to" relay testing info.

I will go and try your suggestion as soon as the weather permits. Unfortunately, it has been raining on and off here, and the car is outside. I hope the rain will stop later this afternoon. If not, I will give it a shot tomorrow morning.

Thank you so much!

Andy