Power steering pump?

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros. Com.

Here are the directions from Alldata for removing and replacing the pump. The attached pictures correlate with these directions. Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

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REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
REMOVAL
1. Remove the (-) negative battery cable from the battery and isolate cable.
2. Remove the wiper module (unit).
3. Raise the vehicle.
4. Remove the drive belt splash shield.
5. Remove the pressure hose routing bracket bolt.
6. Lower the vehicle.
7. Remove cap from power steering fluid reservoir.
8. Using a siphon pump, remove as much power steering fluid as possible from the power 9. Disconnect the pressure hose from the pump.
10. Disconnect the fluid supply hose from the pump.
11. Remove the three front mounting bolts through the pulley
12. Remove the pump (with pulley) through the engine compartment rocking it over the aluminum bracket.

INSTALLATION
1. Install power steering pump back in vehicle using the reverse order of its removal through the engine compartment of the vehicle.
2. Install the power steering pump on its mounting bracket.
3. Install the 3 front power steering pump mounting bolts. Tighten the 3 front power steering pump mounting bolts to a torque of 54 Nm (40 ft. Lbs.).

NOTE: Before installing power steering pressure hose on power steering pump, inspect the O-ring on the power steering pressure hose for damage and replace if required.

4. Install the power steering fluid pressure line into the pressure output fitting of the power steering pump. Do not fully tighten tube nut at this time.
5. Install the power steering fluid supply hose on the power steering pump supply fitting. Be sure hose clamp is properly installed.
6. Raise the vehicle.
7. Install the routing clip on the engine for the pressure hose and tighten fastener.
8. Install the serpentine drive belt.
9. Install the drive belt splash shield.
10. Lower the vehicle.
11. Tighten the pressure line to pump pressure fitting tube nut to a torque of 31 Nm (275 in. Lbs.).
12. Install the wiper module (unit).
13. Connect the negative battery cable on the negative battery post.
14. Fill and bleed the power steering system using the Power Steering Pump Initial Operation Procedure.
15. Inspect for leaks.
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Take care,
Joe

You cannot disassemble the high pressure hose, it is crimped on. To remove it, remove the flare nut from the pump, remove the nut from the steering rack and remove the hose. You will have to jack the vehicle up to access this hose.

Hi Scaleracing. Welcome to the forum. The symptoms all point to air still in the system. It should have bled out by now but since it hasn't, the service manual suggests driving onto an incline with first the left side higher than the right, then the right side higher, and turning the wheels from lock to lock a few times. Any air in the rack has to exit at the spool valve where the hoses attach to the rack.

Caradiodoc

The next time it acts up, speed the engine up just a little. If the power assist comes back, it's likely a weak pump. If it steers hard in only one direction, there's worn seals in the rack and pinion assembly.

Caradiodoc

A noise from the power steering pump is from either the front pulley bearing or the gears it has internally, it is a common problem, it does not go away, if it does not affect performance of the steering, it can make noise for quite a while, if it keeps on getting worse, your going to have to replace it and the fluid. Ok?

This is kind of involved for a do-it-yourselfer.

The belt is tensioned by a spring-loaded tensioner pulley. If you can fit your arm in there far enough to pull on the belt, you should be able to see that pulley move. That's the one you need to move to release the belt tension.

Many of these have a 1/2" square hole on the arm that will accept the drive end of a 1/2" breaker bar or ratchet. Others have a 15 millimeter bolt that holds the pulley to the arm. What worked best for me was to put the box end of a combination wrench on the bolt head, then hook another box wrench onto one tooth of the open end of the first wrench. This gives you more leverage so you don't have to tug so hard on the wrench.

Another tip, if you are not replacing the belt, is to keep tension on it by pulling it up from the power steering pump pulley when moving the tensioner pulley, then move it off the pump pulley and release the tensioner. Now, use a bungie strap to lightly pull the belt up and hook the strap to a hole in the bottom of the hood. This will keep the belt centered and in the proper routing on all the other pulleys.

If your new pump does not have the pulley installed, you will need to transfer the old one to the new pump. This requires a pulley puller and installer kit. Before removing the pulley, note how far the hub sticks out from the end of the shaft. This distance is critical. Installing the pulley mispositioned by 1/16" can result in an incurable belt squeal. New pumps and new pulleys from the dealership might come with a spacer that must be used with the pulley installer tool. There are three possibilities; a small spacer, a smaller spacer, or no spacer required if the hub of the pulley was flush with the end of the shaft. If you don't have the right spacer, a less desirable way to do this is to look at the inside of the pulley hub for rust. The rust will provide a "witness mark" to show how far to install the pulley.

Do not use a hydraulic press to push the pulley onto the pump shaft. Pressure on the shaft will break one of the rotors inside the pump. Some new aftermarket pumps come with a long bolt and nut to use as a pulley installer. Often, these bolts are not hardened and the threads can pull out easily. To avoid this, be sure to thread the bolt as far as possible into the pump shaft. If you need a spacer and one wasn't supplied, visit your friendly dealer. Many techs save the spacers that come with replacement pumps and pulleys rather than throwing them away. The spacers will usually work with the installer bolts supplied with aftermarket pumps.

Hard to turn even after replacing the pump suggests you may have a bad-replacement pump. Chrylsers are a pain in the ass to get the air out, but usually they will give a loud whine. Thats the air in the system. Pull the pressure line off the steering box then start the vehicle and quickly shut it off. (Makes a mess) reconnect the line, top off the fluid. Also, why did u replace the pump? You may have a bad steering rack.

When freon went so did some oil. Was the leak found and repaired? Or just put freon in? If yes then oil in system is carried by freon flow so in short your compressor is lunched.

It will be if you don't get oil into system. You can get an oil charge and add that may help. Also noise maybe coming from bearing on pully. If noise is constant then bearing. If only when comp on then comp