PCM problems?

Hello, what codes are getting exactly? If you're having consistent PCM failures, that is usually a sign of bad PCM grounds, Ill post a diagram of the Ground locations for this PCM. If you have a multimeter, doing voltage drop testing on the Ground wires for the PCM is the best way to check that they can carry an electrical load. The ASD Relay is also grounded by the PCM, so you need to verify that all the power feeds are making it to the PCM as well.
Do you have power on Fuse 33 10Amp and Fuse 18 40Amp in the TIPM?
You will need a test light as well so the circuits can have somewhat of a load on them while testing.
The 4 PCM Grounds all go to the passenger side front fender area, I would verify the ground is not rusted or corroded. If it's green or white with corrosion the ground needs to be repaired. It is causing your PCM failures.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Okay, well, to start with, with the key off, unplug the ABS module and leave it unplugged for now. The U 1120 is a Lost wheel distance message from ABS module. So, to make sure its not the ABS corrupting the CAN bus network. Fuse 18 and 33 are direct B+ Hot at all times, 23,26,32 all come through the ASD Relay. So, it's not activating.
The other code is for the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor, unplug the sensor and check one of the two wires for 5-volts. I'm getting a diagram ready for you. Now the IAT sensor shares a ground with many other sensors, so it might be that the sensor ground is open somewhere and that's why the sensor is reading High voltage, or it might just be a bad sensor, but we'll check that next.
You'll have to test the wires, it doesn't matter if they look good, we have to know they can carry current flow, Guessing is not how to diagnose circuits, especially automotive control circuits. But start with unplugging the ABS module.

This is the IAT sensor on the boot that runs from the air filter box to the Throttle body, Unplug it and check for volts on one of the wires with the key On. It needs to be unplugged to test it.
Next check the resistance of the sensor itself, check the Ohms reading across the 2 pins of the sensor., And make sure it's not an open circuit inside the sensor. A shorted 5v Reference circuit will cause a no start condition.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Hello, I can't see this picture at all, it is completely blurry. Can you give me your VIN number so I can pull up the information for the correct vehicle, there are 6 different 2.7Liter PT Cruisers listed.
And when you say you moved some wires around, do you mean you did a type of wiggle test on the wiring harness and the door chime came back and the theft light went off, but then the harness obviously moved back to its original position and the issues came back? It has been a few weeks since this case, and I just want to be clear as to what you're saying. You didn't relocate wires in connectors or anything like that correct? If you just moved the harness around by hand and power was restored to some components that would indicate there is an issue with either a connector pin fitment, a loose connector or wires, or a corroded connector that made contact temporarily.
But let's start with your VIN number so I can get the correct wiring diagrams.

And did you unplug the Intake Air Temperature sensor and check for a 5volt Reference with the key on? One of the 2 wires to the sensor should read 5 volts with the Key On, this code indicates there was more than 5volts on the Reference wire, so verify this please, If the 5volt Ref is shorted to battery voltage, it will cause the PCM to malfunction. So, let's just be sure of this circuit first.
Also, which section of wire did you move under the ignition switch that had some effect? Was it a section going to a connector with multiple wires? If so, can you duplicate that situation again?

And if you hold the key in the "Start" position you get power to the fuses in the TIPM? If that's the case, then the wiring from the Ignition switch is part of the issue and power is just not making it past a certain connector somewhere just below the steering column. And that's why moving the wiring harness around momentarily allowed power to the TIPM. So, the issue is probably just under the driver's side lower dash. I'll check for any connector numbers in that location.
But Fuses 1-40A, 3-10A, 4-10A, and some other fuses should have battery power all the time, so all the fuses in the TIPM shouldn't be without power. If all the fuses have no power at all, then there is an issue with a power feed going from the Battery into the TIPM. Possibly a connector or the internal circuit board of the TIPM has some open circuits.

Okay, so, there might be some aftermarket security system or remote start installed that is malfunctioning. If there's something wired in with butt connectors, those are not used by manufacturers.
Let me know the colors of the 2 wires running into the box and I assume they are the same color coming out of the box?

Well, I searched for that number on the black box but didn't find anything, If I can see the rest of the lettering on it, we can do a better search for it. If it has black wires, it might be something that opens a ground circuit. Possibly a remote start. I've had small security boxes like that malfunction, and I had to end up bypassing the security system to get the vehicle to start. It was opening the Ground circuit for the Ignition switch or something like that. It was a long time ago. But that might be what it's doing, I'll take a look at the security system a bit more.

I still can't read the label on it; can you get a close clear picture of that?
So, it looks like they are interrupting that pinkish wire for some reason.
Is that wire pink with a grey stripe?

Well, it does look like a light blue, there is a wire coming from the Ignition switch that is pink/light blue that goes to the Starter Relay. I'm trying to find out what this box is, but it definitely looks aftermarket to me. Since those butt connectors are not sealed on the wire, I would see if you can get a voltage reading on the wire coming from the ignition switch. That might be just inhibiting an ignition switch wire.

What's the FCC number on that black box? Does it say METRIK COLLECT NO on it?

Oh, I found it, is a Canadian IMETRIK GPS Vehicle Tracker.-GPS Locator
It can't legally be removed if it was Court Ordered.

It's used for either tracking the vehicle due to court order, or it gives a car dealer/lender the ability to find the vehicle or disable it if there are late payments on the vehicle. So, they can disable it from starting wherever the vehicle is by wireless means.
Did you lease this vehicle and are you making payments on it?