Code P0171?

Tiny
MSW1748
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET TRAILBLAZER
  • 4.2L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
Could the air filter housing not being screwed down completely cause this lean code? The vehicle recently had an evap code which was the vent valve. That code has not reappeared but now this 171 code came up. Why wouldn't that code be present when the condition was there already? When the vent valve was replaced, the codes were cleared. Drove to emissions and the tech manually turned the MIL on. Why wouldn't that code appear the whole drive there if the air filter housing wasn't secure? I hope I'm making sense.
Tuesday, October 25th, 2022 AT 10:17 AM

16 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Hi,

If the air filter housing was loose and unmetered air is entering the engine, yes, it will cause a lean fuel mixture.

The control module calculates the air/fuel ratio based on inputs from the ECT, MAF, MAP, and TP sensors. If air is not detected via one of the sensors, too much air enters the combustion chamber without the control module knowing.

Does that make sense? Let me know if that helps or if you have other questions,

Take care,

Joe
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Tuesday, October 25th, 2022 AT 6:46 PM
Tiny
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Thank you but now I have another question. After I secured the AF housing, I'm driving around with my scanner connected and every time I clear the code it comes right back so that wasn't the problem. When I replaced the vent valve all codes pertaining to the evap system stayed gone. Now this lean code came up which didn't before. My attention is now on the purge valve. Could the purge valve be causing this code and not specifically identifying the evap system? I'm going to test the purge valve. The filler neck to the tank is pristine as well as the tested gas cap. I did my own smoke test and found no leaks in the evap system. If purge valve tests okay, would I be travelling the right road to focus on the intake manifold bolts and or the MAF sensor? Thanks again for your time.
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Thursday, October 27th, 2022 AT 11:13 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Yes, that could be related. However, keep in mind that any engine vacuum leak can cause the problem. If someone left a vacuum hose disconnected or broke one, it could be causing this.

Here is a link that explains how to locate and repair an engine vacuum leak:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

See if you can find other areas that may be leaking and let me know what is found.

Take care,

Joe
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+1
Thursday, October 27th, 2022 AT 5:26 PM
Tiny
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Okay, I'm now onto the fuel filter and MAF sensor but I can't get a straight answer on where the MAF sensor is. Any other vehicle is in plain view. One guy says it's here; another says it's there. Yet another says there's none at all. Obviously two of those answers are bogus, which is it? I have no problem identifying it on any other vehicle. Incidentally, it took several days for the evap code to return. I tested the purge valve, and it was clicking only a fraction of the time. That would tell me why the code didn't come back right away because it was working some of the time. So far, the evap code is gone, but the 171 came up immediately. I understand the fuel filter was recently replaced, for security of my waning sanity, I'm going to replace it again. Still need a MAF location or if it even exists.
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Thursday, November 3rd, 2022 AT 10:47 AM
Tiny
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I would like to add that this vehicle is not displaying signs of low fuel pressure. I'm totally aware that slightly low fuel pressure may cause problems. But there have been no misfire codes which is a relative symptom. This truck hauls ass. It's very fast and may even beat my crown Vic interceptor that has a V8. It starts and idles fine, doesn't run rough. I have smoke tested right into the intake and smoke tested the evap system and cannot find a vacuum leak. I'm also confused as to how the 171 code comes and goes. Does it run lean when it feels like it? As long as the comp is displaying evap codes, the lean code is absent.
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Thursday, November 3rd, 2022 AT 10:58 AM
Tiny
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Hi,

Is it possible for you to let me know what the short-term fuel trims?

Joe
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Thursday, November 3rd, 2022 AT 1:48 PM
Tiny
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No, sorry. Basic scan tool here. I really just need to know does this 2003 4.2-liter engine have a MAF sensor or not? If so, where is it please thanks? In summary, the vehicle started out with evap issue codes. Removed, tested and replaced the vent valve as there was no reaction when I applied current directly to it. Code remained absent for several days but then displayed the lean code but evap code did return. Removed and tested and replaced the purge valve as it was reacting intermittently to the current applied directly to it. Smoke tested the evap system and then went directly into intake and found no leaks. The gas cap was tested and ok'd when I failed the emissions test. I then replaced the fuel filter as I found no record of it being done and as of now I've got no codes but need to drive cycle some more. I'm left with the MAF sensor which I can't easily identify on this engine. That's about the end of my rope of expertise. If I can't clean or replace a MAF sensor and the mil stays lit, I don't know what else I can try. I have not been able to put a gauge on the line at the fuel filter but again, there is no misfire codes or anything else indicating low fuel pressure. Starts, idles and runs like a raped ape, no signs whatsoever of low fuel pressure. It is past due for passing smog test and now I'm having to absorb slack from this vehicle being down. Can you please tell me, MAF or no MAF? Or any other suggestions I can try at my level. With the current state of this country and the gouging of customers going on, bringing this vehicle in at 140 dollars an hour just isn't possible right now. I appreciate your attention.
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Saturday, November 5th, 2022 AT 1:19 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

It doesn't have a MAF. In its place is a manifold absolute pressure sensor and an air intake temperature sensor. I attached a pic below showing locations.

So, there are no codes present at this point? Do you suspect the code will return during the drive cycle?

As far as the economy is concerned, I totally feel your pain. Someone wants to end what we have. Ugh! I could go on for hours.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.
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Saturday, November 5th, 2022 AT 9:51 PM
Tiny
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The lean code keeps coming back, like really quick. Not even having to drive it. I found a receipt in the glove box where a service center had reviewed these codes and there was a general statement on the receipt being the most likely fix reprogramming the PCM. Is this something that happens by completing drive cycle scenarios? Does it happen over time? Or do they need to remove the PCM? Is this even an accurate explanation? I can't see why, but again I know nothing of the vehicle's history with the previous owner. I do know that one year ago the vehicle passed emissions and it also had major ac work done, like I think the compressor was replaced. This same mechanic is the one stating about the PCM on the receipt. Would changing the compressor warrant a reprogram of the PCM? I'm about at the end of my rope unless you have another idea. Also can I ask you about another vehicle here or should I start a new thread? The trailblazer is my landlady's, and the new question will be about my crown Vic interceptor.
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Sunday, November 6th, 2022 AT 11:18 AM
Tiny
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Hi,

The compressor wouldn't change things. As far as reprogramming, it is done via the data link connector where you connect a scan tool.

Are there any exhaust leaks? Is there any way you could get your hands on a live data scanner?

Let me know.

Joe
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Sunday, November 6th, 2022 AT 7:22 PM
Tiny
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Okay. I'm still chasing this thing, but I did manage to score a better scan tool, and this is what I saw. First off, which I thought was weird, was immediately upon starting the system went into closed loop way before it reached any temperature. Is that because of heated o2 working? This is the real issue I found. The small tube that connects the fuel pressure regulator to the airbox on top of the engine, when I wiggle the tube the fuel trim bounced back and forth from extreme negative to extreme positive. I think 19.53 is the maximum fluctuations either the scanner app will display, or the computer will allow in not sure but regardless, the slightest touch and it will go from neg19. 53 to pos 19.53 instantly. The driver complains of a gas smell occasionally. The tube is not clogged, and I couldn't find cracks in it. Should I replace the tube or the regulator or both. I hope I'm making sense. Thanks for all of your help so far. How you keep up with all of this I'll never know but good job.
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Saturday, December 10th, 2022 AT 10:09 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Are you referring to the vacuum hose to the regulator? Take a look at the pic below and let me know if that is what you are referring to.

Also, disconnect that hose and see if there is any evidence of fuel being in it.

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.
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Saturday, December 10th, 2022 AT 5:46 PM
Tiny
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Yes, sir that's the one. I could almost blow on that tube, the slightest touch sends the stft from all the way negative to all the way positive and another touch sends it all the way back to the negative again. Meaning -19.53 to +19.53 in an instant, not anything in between. That tube appears to be airtight so it's telling me there's something amuck with the regulator. One moment it's dumping fuel into it the very next it's trying to take it away. I would suspect that's why she only occasionally smells gas. Incidentally, I'm also getting the p0442 code simultaneously with the p0171 for the first time. Before it was one or the other. The purge system, valve and solenoid both tested faulty and have been replaced. There's no change in numbers while applying brakes nor 1500 or 2500 rpm revving. I have not seen a drop of fuel from that tube or anywhere. The exhaust stinks like dead birds but this vehicle has no problem starting, staying running and it hauls ass still. No hesitation and only a very slight rough idle. The cap has been tested; I've done smoke testing as well as carb cleaner testing revealing no leaks. Should I buy the regulator? I've got one shot at getting it. I can only afford one more thing I have to get it right. Thanks
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Saturday, December 10th, 2022 AT 6:48 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

If there is no evidence of fuel in the vacuum hose and the hose has good vacuum pressure with the engine running, then I would suspect it has to do with the regulator. The only thing that makes me question it is the idea that when you move that hose, the trims change so much. Are you sure there isn't a crack in the hose?

Joe
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Saturday, December 10th, 2022 AT 7:52 PM
Tiny
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I suppose I'm going to check again. You'd think I would hear it sucking if it's enough to cause that much of a fluctuation. I also wanted to add that I was trying to create some disturbances while watching the live data and the small plastic cone or whatever it's called that sticks out from the front of the air filter housing that the air enters the air filter box. I was holding a rag, my hand, and a piece of cardboard over the hole. You'd think the engine would bog down or maybe even stall from the air being choked off but there was no affect. I don't think any numbers even changed almost like it's getting air from somewhere else. I also read somewhere, not saying it's true, but I read that the maf less system with the map sensor fuel trims won't be affected by a vacuum leak. Can you confirm or deny any of that? Thanks again man. Ive got to be getting close. This thing has more than one issue that's compounding the other.
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Sunday, December 11th, 2022 AT 2:48 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Take some carb cleaner and spray it on the areas you suspect. If there is a leak, the engine RPMs will increase.

Take a look at this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Let me know.

Joe
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Sunday, December 11th, 2022 AT 12:46 PM

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