2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer P0171. Can't find the cause

Tiny
SUNLINER
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 CHEVROLET TRAILBLAZER
  • 4.2L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 104,000 MILES
I recently replaced a vent solenoid to fix an evap concern. Two days later, the check engine light comes on.
this time it's P0171. My LT fuel trims can be found anywhere from the normal range on up to 20% but usually around 14-16%
Here's what I've tried so far. Checked intake manifold bolts (loose which apparently is common on these trucks, so I snugged them down), replaced the front O2 sensor, replaced the AIR solenoid/valve, replaced the MAF sensor, checked vacuum on the intake manifold-found solid needle at 20 in/hg, checked fuel pressure-60 psi, held 56 after key off. Have not pulled the heat shield off to look at exhaust manifold yet but I don't hear or smell anything weird in that area. I'm usually pretty good at fixing stuff, but this is kicking my butt!
Sunday, August 31st, 2014 AT 5:56 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
Checking the engines vacuum reading will not tell you if there is a vacuum leak the best way to check for a vacuum leak is to inject smoke into the vacuum system. Thats what I always do I made my own smoke machine because there really expensive to buy one.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 31st, 2014 AT 6:31 PM
Tiny
TBLAZ
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
With my 2006 Trailblazer I6 I had had the P0171 code on and off for awhile, but it eventually became a permanent thing. Both the method of spraying carb cleaner around and the use of a smoke machine indicated that the intake manifold was leaking. I decided to just tighten the bolts and see if that would solve the problem instead of replacing the manifold gasket. There are ten bolts and the ones closest to the front of the engine were not loose, but as I moved further back the bolts became progressively looser. Towards the middle of the manifold the bolts were definitely loose requiring perhaps a quarter turn to tighten them, the ones toward the rear took perhaps a full turn, and the very last one probably two full turns.

I used a variety of 1/4" drive tools to get the job done, including a variety of extensions including wobbler extensions, universal joint, and regular and 10mm deep socket.

I did unbolt the ECU to improve access, as well as removing the large vacuum hose going to the brake booster. The front ones would be much easier if the alternator was removed, but I left it on. I also disconnected the battery because toward the rear of the engine the hot terminal of the starter is fairly close to where you will be working with your sockets.

Each bolt posed its own particular challenges. I suggest you do not do this when you are pressed for time.

The problem is solved!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-1
Friday, January 29th, 2021 AT 12:33 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,414 POSTS
TBLAZ warms up so by the time you get to the shop and they check it, the leak has stopped as the parts expand. Having the bolts that loose is sort of strange, I have seen them rust off but never really get loose. Learn something new every day.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-1
Saturday, January 30th, 2021 AT 8:26 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links