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Overheating

Tiny
CECE18192004
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 BUICK CENTURY
  • 3.1L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 125,000 MILES
I have replaced head gaskets, radiator, fans, thermostat, water pump, heater core, and hoses. Started over heating after I did a radiator flush since I was trying to clean out the stop leak the previous owners had done. I changed the thermostat first, then the water pump and just done the heater core. The head gaskets, radiator, fans and hoses were changed just a few months ago. I have the coolant temperature sensor and will be changing that tomorrow. Any help would be great since I have been working on this car for a week now.
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Sunday, December 10th, 2017 AT 10:02 PM

52 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
So does the radiator fan come on before it starts to overheat? Or does the radiator fan come on at all?
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Monday, December 11th, 2017 AT 12:03 AM
Tiny
CECE18192004
  • MEMBER
  • 28 POSTS
Well it has a new relay, but I also can straight wire it with a wire. So yes they do come on before it overheats. The top hose does build up pressure on it but the new pressure release radiator cap is cold when there is pressure on the hose.
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Monday, December 11th, 2017 AT 5:33 AM
Tiny
CECE18192004
  • MEMBER
  • 28 POSTS
Drove the car to the auto parts store which is less than two miles. Did not overheat on the way but on the way back it overheated and when I pulled into driveway, turned the car off you could smell antifreeze.
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Monday, December 11th, 2017 AT 7:02 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
Unplug the coolant temperature sensor with the car running, does the radiator fan come on? If so the radiator fan circuit is working correctly and you probably have a bad coolant temperature sensor not reading the correct temperature.
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Monday, December 11th, 2017 AT 9:07 AM
Tiny
CECE18192004
  • MEMBER
  • 28 POSTS
I already bought the sensor so I am going to just replace it now and I bought new coolant air bleeders so I know no air is leaking pass those and getting into the coolant system.
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Monday, December 11th, 2017 AT 9:10 AM
Tiny
CECE18192004
  • MEMBER
  • 28 POSTS
Everything is new on the car. Still over heating. Help!
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Monday, December 11th, 2017 AT 1:11 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
When you refilled the cooling system you had the air bleeder open until you got a steady stream out of the bleeder screw then closed the bleeder screw? Also, you already replaced coolant temperature sensor? Also, with it running while unplugging the coolant temperature sensor the radiator fan turns on?
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Monday, December 11th, 2017 AT 1:53 PM
Tiny
CECE18192004
  • MEMBER
  • 28 POSTS
Yes, we bled until it was a stream. Yes replaced the coolant temperature sensor. The old one was broken. The one bleeder over the water pump puts out water but the one at the thermostat housing is only letting steam out no water now.
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Monday, December 11th, 2017 AT 1:57 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Then there is air somewhere in the system you showing mess with the bleeders when it is hot.
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Monday, December 11th, 2017 AT 1:59 PM
Tiny
CECE18192004
  • MEMBER
  • 28 POSTS
Well you have to mess with them when it is hot to make sure you get all the air out.
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Monday, December 11th, 2017 AT 2:01 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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There only meant to opened when cold otherwise you can get sprayed with hot coolant. Like I said the bleeder is opened when your adding coolant not while your warming the engine up. Or while the engine is cold you can see if you get air out then.
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Monday, December 11th, 2017 AT 2:05 PM
Tiny
CECE18192004
  • MEMBER
  • 28 POSTS
Did that. Even after the car got warm air was still coming out.
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Monday, December 11th, 2017 AT 2:07 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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  • 30,869 POSTS
Sounds like there is air in the cooling system that will make a car overheat really quick.
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Monday, December 11th, 2017 AT 2:09 PM
Tiny
CECE18192004
  • MEMBER
  • 28 POSTS
So I need to keep bleeding it after it cools down again and keep adding fluids?
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Monday, December 11th, 2017 AT 2:14 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Yes, that is correct those air pockets can be tricky sometimes.
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Monday, December 11th, 2017 AT 2:26 PM
Tiny
CECE18192004
  • MEMBER
  • 28 POSTS
Husband is test driving it again since we got water flow out of both bleeders.
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Monday, December 11th, 2017 AT 2:29 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Okay, keep me posted.
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Monday, December 11th, 2017 AT 2:29 PM
Tiny
CECE18192004
  • MEMBER
  • 28 POSTS
Okay, as long as the car is moving it does not try to overheat. Anyway the temperature gauge inside the car is going out? No pressure on any hose like before and when I released the pressure on the radiator cap there was none.
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Monday, December 11th, 2017 AT 3:07 PM
Tiny
CECE18192004
  • MEMBER
  • 28 POSTS
Okay we took the car back out. No heat at all. Anyway, if I do a engine block flush and a radiator flush to get anything that can block a hose out would that help? I do believe there is still air in the coolant system but I am tired of bleeding the system without getting anywhere.
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Monday, December 11th, 2017 AT 7:31 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
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Sounds like the temperature gauge is working if it is showing it is overheating. When the engine reaches normal operating temperature is both the upper and lower radiator hoses getting too hot to hold? Also, are both heater hoses at the firewall getting too hot to hold at operating temperature? I would like to know what temperature the radiator fan is coming on? Because when someone tells me it does not overheat while driving but overheats when I am not driving. First thing I suspect is the radiator fan is not working correctly. Also, you never answered my question of does the radiator fan come on when you unplug the coolant temperature sensor when it is running? Unless someone put some radiator stop leak in the cooling system I would not suspect things being clogged up.
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Tuesday, December 12th, 2017 AT 7:56 AM

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