Overheating I have Idea what else it could be?

Tiny
ARIANADANIELLE5345
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  • 2008 BUICK LUCERNE
  • 3.8L
  • 6 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 80,750 MILES
I’ve changed the intake gaskets, head gaskets, radiator hoses, thermostat, thermostat housing, coolant temperature sensor, radiator, and radiator cap, but it still overheats. I have idea what else it could be any help would be appreciated because this car is such a headache.
Monday, March 31st, 2025 AT 11:13 AM

28 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
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If you have changed all of those but it still overheats check that the water pump is circulating coolant. While not common I have seen the impellers fail on them. When you say it overheats do you mean it gets hot enough that it boils over or is it just hot on the gauges?
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Tuesday, April 1st, 2025 AT 6:55 AM
Tiny
ARIANADANIELLE5345
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I forgot to mention I did change the water pump also, And it comes out of the reservoir cap and also the temperature gauge goes past the middle but when I turn the heater on, it goes back to the middle and stays there, but twice the heater didn’t help so I shut the car off, but like I said that only happened twice.
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Tuesday, April 1st, 2025 AT 8:46 AM
Tiny
ARIANADANIELLE5345
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I also bled the cooling system by pouring coolant into the block, then putting the thermostat on with the GM engineer recommended hole that I drilled into the thermostat flange and then filled the radiator and so on and so forth.
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Tuesday, April 1st, 2025 AT 8:47 AM
Tiny
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I was thinking maybe the heater core but there’s no coolant on the passenger side, floorboard and the heater blows hot air.
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Tuesday, April 1st, 2025 AT 8:47 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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The heater core isn't really part of the cooling system in that respect. The only time it will help is if you have air blowing through it that can carry the heat away and that only happens if you have the heater turned on, so mid summer 100 degrees out you are not likely to want hot air pouring into the cabin so the core isn't really there for cooling the engine. Did you change out all of these parts because it was getting hot or did you change them out and then have an issue? The coolant coming out the reservoir cap sounds like it was over full. Are the cooling fans turning on?
The normal filling method on these is to start with a cold engine. Fill the system until it reaches the cold line. Then start the engine and rev it a couple times and let it warm up. Now shut it off. Once cool you top it back up to cold and repeat the process until it doesn't take any extra coolant when cold. No other steps needed.
Your description sounds like it has air in it.
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Tuesday, April 1st, 2025 AT 10:35 PM
Tiny
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Because I changed the thermostat and the water pump, the block was empty so I filled the block put the thermostat in then filled the radiator and then bled as normal with the bleeder screw on the thermostat housing and no it was getting hot so I did all of this. It did not happen because I did all of this and no there is no air in the system because when I cracked the bleeder screw no more bubbles come out.
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Wednesday, April 2nd, 2025 AT 11:30 AM
Tiny
ARIANADANIELLE5345
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And no, it was not overfilled. It was directly at the line and still is directly at the line.
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Wednesday, April 2nd, 2025 AT 11:31 AM
Tiny
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If there was a leak, that would allow air in, right? But would a steady stream come out of the bleeder screw like it is? Or is it possible to have a steady stream but still have air in the system?
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Wednesday, April 2nd, 2025 AT 3:47 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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A leak won't let air in unless it is above the level of the coolant. Plus, as soon as the system pressurized a leak would show up by leaking more. That it doesn't overheat every time, and the coolant was staying in the correct level, suggests either a bad thermostat that is sticking or the fans are not coming on and the coolant is overheating. However, the cooling fans would be noticeable. What was the vehicle doing when it got hot? Just driving or?
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Wednesday, April 2nd, 2025 AT 7:05 PM
Tiny
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It does it when it’s driving and when it’s idling.
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Thursday, April 3rd, 2025 AT 5:50 AM
Tiny
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I will use my power probe today to verify the fans are working and then I’ll test the relays. I’ve already checked all of the fuses.
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Thursday, April 3rd, 2025 AT 5:51 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Simple test for the fans, just unplug the coolant temperature sensor. That should trigger them on.
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Thursday, April 3rd, 2025 AT 6:25 AM
Tiny
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They work.
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Thursday, April 3rd, 2025 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
ARIANADANIELLE5345
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And I’ve used aftermarket thermostats and Gm ones because that’s what I thought it was, too. It happens no matter which thermostat I use.
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Thursday, April 3rd, 2025 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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The intermittent part of it is what doesn't make sense. I would expect it to overheat every time, not just once or twice. Try this, grab an IR thermometer or a thermal camera if you can find one as a loaner. Use that to inspect the system when it gets hot. See if you can find something like an area that isn't moving coolant. If the hoses are getting hot and the rad is evenly heating then check the actual temperature and see if the fans come on starting at 202 degrees, then to high speed when it hits 220 degrees.
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Thursday, April 3rd, 2025 AT 1:23 PM
Tiny
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They don’t come on at 202. They don’t come on until it’s after the halfway mark. And when I say overheating, I mean over the halfway mark. I never let it actually overheat. It used to stay below the halfway mark until it didn’t which is when I changed all that stuff.
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Friday, April 4th, 2025 AT 6:33 AM
Tiny
ARIANADANIELLE5345
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On the temperature gauge on the dash, I mean.
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Friday, April 4th, 2025 AT 6:33 AM
Tiny
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And now the coolant level is dropping. Could it be because I need motor mounts so it’s causing the engine to shift too much? Because I noticed the clip that holds the coolant reservoir is gone so maybe the vibrations were too much and it bounced out or something and the vibrations make the coolant come out of the reservoir? Because the cap isn’t a screw on it literally just pops on and off just like a windshield wiper fluid reservoir cap.
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Friday, April 4th, 2025 AT 6:36 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Okay, the dash gauge isn't very accurate, you need to see what the actual coolant temperature is. With coolant in them they run well over the boiling temperature of plain water.
Overheating normally would be in a red area on a gauge or when it actually starts dumping coolant. I would measure the actual temperatures it's running at.
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Friday, April 4th, 2025 AT 4:03 PM
Tiny
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Turns out it was just my forgetfulness. I didn’t have the reservoir clipped down so I’m assuming because the motor mount is bad, the vibrations caused the coolant to overflow out of the top. I clipped it in, and it stopped overheating, although I do still smell a slight coolant smell, and it idles a little rough sometimes. But it hasn’t gone past the middle since I secured the reservoir in place.
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Saturday, April 5th, 2025 AT 7:43 AM

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