Overdrive switch short

I’m sorry for your stress, lol. I really appreciate the help though. A lot. Let me tell you everything in order because maybe you’ll notice something that I’m missing.
1. The car kept stalling.
2. Had the mechanic change valve covers because he told me that’s what the problem was
3. Same thing happened.
4. Read a lot and had a friend help me investigate.
5. Found injector had broken pintle cap.
6. Replaced and car ran fine.
7. Hard shifting.
8. Trans rebuilt.
8. Ran okay but stalled twice while reversing.
9. Engine smoking.
10. Found valve covers themselves were warped and went in to change but ended up rebuilding engine.
11. Ran great for 3 days until trans cooler leaked.
Now these next 4 happened at the same time.
12. Replaced cooler and lines.
13. AAA reversed polarities.
14. Attempted to fix driver door speaker.
15. Overdrive button broke (just the little plastic piece that you push on the side of steering wheel).
16. Current issue.
17. Replaced PCM.
18. Realized how crappy my luck has been with this car.
All of this took place within the last two years.

No, I caught it right as it began. It started with the car parked in my driveway and I didn’t drive it after I saw it. Very little leaked out, but either way I filled the cooler and the transmission while it was at operating temperature before I tried to drive it.

No, because tomorrow I’m planning to drop my transmission to change my rear main seal. That same shop told me not to leave the sleeve on when I installed the rear main even though everyone else said to leave it. I listened to that shop and it’s already leaking really bad just sitting in my driveway. Instead of pulling the engine again I’d rather just drop the transmission because I hear it’s way easier. And then I’ll buy the trans pressure tester. I found one for about $45.00 and it had 4.7 stars on the company’s website, so hopefully it’ll be okay.

Apparently, I have to rebuild my engine again. The drive plate has worn down teeth and the bell housing have marks from it. I was told that means my crank and thrust bearing need to be replaced and that also is what caused my rear main seal to leak. I paid the machine shop that ended up screwing up my heads to grind my crank because they assured me, I could still use it because nothing was wrong with it. It all makes sense now because I had to replace the drive plate during the rebuild because it had a slight indent which I'm told was a contributing factor to my transmission needing to be rebuilt in the first place. So, I don’t really know what to do. I can’t afford to rebuild my engine again or to put a rebuilt one in. I just don’t know what I’m going to do at the moment.

Is cutting the same as grinding? Because they never said anything about cutting. All they said was $90.00 to grind the crank so I said okay, if it needs it then do it and then they told me I could use standard size bearings and everything which is why they didn’t bore the block and only honed it.

So, they either lied and stole my money by not grinding it but telling me they did, or they set me up for failure from the beginning by grinding it and getting standard bearings? And actually, they got them for me. I just paid for them and then installed them after they gave me the block back.

No matter how long you’ve been doing anything in life, I have found that you should never stop asking questions and always remain teachable. Life would be boring if you knew everything. I ask a lot of questions always have and always will. So hopefully they won’t laugh at you they’ll just see it as an opportunity to tell you something you don’t know. I have never understood what is so funny about someone not knowing something lol. The best thing I have ever heard was a quote from Einstein. He said, “The important thing is to never stop questioning. Curiosity has its own reason for existing.” So, in my opinion no one should laugh just because you haven’t heard of something and are inquiring about it. Sorry if they do and thank you for risking it, lol.

Okay, wait. That sounds familiar so maybe that’s what they did. Whatever it was, it cost $90.00. I’ll have to take my skateboard over there tomorrow and ask them because they didn’t answer when I texted them today. Twice. Lol. Although, I do have a couple of theories. I had trouble with the woodruff key on my harmonic balancer. Looking at the pulley now, it looks banged up and it shouldn’t be because I only drove my car for a few days. My theory is that it’s my harmonic balancer behind all of it. I think it being damaged is causing the crank wobbling which made the flywheel hit the bellhousing. It probably also caused my oil leak. A leak which I thought was coming from my rear main only to find out that it’s actually coming from the back side of my upper oil pan. I found that out when I dropped my transmission the other day. My other theory is that either the crankcase, the oil pump drive that gave me so much trouble plus a valley full of oil, my leaking valve cover(all fixed except for the upper oil pan), or a combination of all 3, caused oil to leak onto the harmonic balancer which softened the rubber and caused it to chip off which made the crank wobble and made the flywheel imprint itself onto the inside of the bellhousing. If that's the case, then changing the balancer should fix the problem. That would spare me from having to figure out how to pay for parts for another rebuild. Are either of those theories plausible?

And yes, I wish I was too because then I’d finally have someone to help me figure this car out because it’s different when it’s right in front of you, lol. I’m about to see how much a tow would cost for across the country, lol.

I tried to send you a private message. Did you get it?