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Rear spark plug removal

Tiny
RDALGLEI
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 261,000 MILES
Hi. I am having difficulty rotating my engine forward to change the rear plugs. The vehicle is in neutral and blocked and the front engine support (dog bone) is dis-assembled. My Hane's manual is very vague and that is all it says to do. The picture in the manual shows a 3.1 mine is a 3.4 DOHC. The picture also shows two dog bones, mine only has one. I have changed other rear spark plugs in different cars and there was no problem. My question is, is there something else I am missing or unaware of?

Thank you,

Randy
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Monday, January 19th, 2009 AT 1:35 PM

20 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,645 POSTS
Hi:

Yep on that car you really need to move the engine as far forward as you can We use blocks of wood to hold the engine forward once the engine mounts have been loosened /removed.

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers
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Monday, January 26th, 2009 AT 4:56 PM
Tiny
MUDDUCKK9
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1993 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS
Six cylinder, automatic, 140,000 miles.

I was driving my car when it just lost power and would not move. It would run but it bogged. I had it towed home and looked it over. I replaced the spark plugs, coil pack, sensor module, and some small air hoses. I ran a test on it but there are no fault codes. Now my car will start when cold, still bogs a little but when it gets hot will get worse. If you turn the car off after running it, it will not start at all. Please if you know what is wrong or think might be wrong lead me in the right direction.
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Monday, September 24th, 2018 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,749 POSTS
Check fuel filter and fuel pump. You are describing bad fuel pump. Feedback and votes are greatly appreciated.
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Monday, September 24th, 2018 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MUDDUCKK9
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Fuel filter and pump work fine. Car runs great at 2,000 rpm's. When at idle and when the car gets hot and when you put it in gear it gets very boggy and barely moves at a crawl.
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Monday, September 24th, 2018 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,749 POSTS
I am a little confused. At any time will it run fine? Does it bog when you have the pedal to the floor going down the street? Does it bog when going slow but run fine at 2,000 and above?
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Monday, September 24th, 2018 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MUDDUCKK9
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
When I get the rpm's up to about 2,000 the engine sounds fine when parked. When at idle I give it gas it sounds like an air pocket and wants to back fire and bog out then catches enough to run fine. When I put it in gear and give it gas I have to constantly pump the gas pedal to keep the engine running and it sputters and bogs to slowly move.
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Monday, September 24th, 2018 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHEVYFANATIC
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
  • 1993 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 216,000 MILES
Hi, I have been having problems with my car. The spark plugs do not get any spark when trying to turn over. Have replaced all three coil packs, the ICM and now the crankshaft sensor. Does anyone have an idea of what would be causing this or how to fix this? It also will not turn over because of this.
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Monday, September 24th, 2018 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,749 POSTS
If your running on all six cylinders and you have fuel pressure. You could have a clogged catalytic converter. You can check this by removing the o2 sensor and run car, if it runs good then your catalytic converter is plugged.
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Monday, September 24th, 2018 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Welcome to the forum, any trouble codes? Check for B+ and ground at the ignition module. B+ is a pink wire, goes hot with key on, ground wire is black.
During cranking, the ignition module controls spark timing with input from the crank sensor. The vehicle cranks good but will not start?
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Monday, September 24th, 2018 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHEVYFANATIC
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Cranks over good just has no spark.
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Monday, September 24th, 2018 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHEVYFANATIC
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Also, there is no trouble codes. Somehow the battery got unhooked and lost all trouble codes.
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Monday, September 24th, 2018 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/170934_cutlass_ignition_module_1.jpg



The single connector on that one end, is B+ and ground. You need to check that.
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Monday, September 24th, 2018 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOHNNY_NJ
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1993 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 19,100 MILES
Hello, I have a 1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme S. 3.1 L and a six cylinder. I need to change the spark plugs, but I am having some trouble. There are six plugs with three in front of engine and three in back. The front three I can get to, but the back three I cannot get to them to change them. What is the best way to access the back three in order to change them? Someone told me that you can move to engine fairly easy in order to get to them. There is two brackets on the front that looks like the engine can move, but I never did that before. Any tips will be helpful. I am sure someone came across before. Thanks
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Monday, September 24th, 2018 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHEVYFANATIC
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Okay, will try that then get back.
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Monday, September 24th, 2018 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,123 POSTS
Yes, you are in the right direction. The two upper torque strut mounts also known as dog bone mounts because of their shape are the ones you need to manipulate. The one bolt needs to be removed that opposes the hole in the cast.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_dogbone_1.jpg



Once you remove the bolt, engine can rock.
Keep the car in neutral and push the car and the engine will rock towards the two opposing points that the mounts are connected to.

Slip the bolt you removed back through but insert the bolt through the hole in the cast and the engine will be rocked forward for you to hate this job less. ;-)
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Monday, September 24th, 2018 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHEVYFANATIC
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
On that one single end connector does not have power. Where does the power come from for that end? Has no lead on that end.
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Monday, September 24th, 2018 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
That is a two wire connector, wire colors, pink and black? The pink wire is voltage, goes hot with key on, black is ground. My information shows voltage for the pink wire comes from dis fuse- 10 amp.
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Monday, September 24th, 2018 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHEVYFANATIC
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Alright, figured out the pink wire was loose before I got the car and had been spliced and fixed that runs pretty good now. But my right rear blinker will not work. Any information on that? I have checked wires and everything on it the right front blinker works so do not know what the problem there is.
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Monday, September 24th, 2018 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TMJMMILLER
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 98,000 MILES
I am not able to get my hands in to change the back three plugs.
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Monday, September 24th, 2018 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MYOUNG4
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
You must remove the vacuum hoses, but make sure to label the before removal then you have to have a long 3/8 extension to reach the plugs, then you have to buy a extension magnet to remove the plus a swivel might help too.
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-1
Monday, September 24th, 2018 AT 1:18 PM (Merged)

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