1994 Oldsmobile Bravada Car won't start

Tiny
GG1328
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 135,000 MILES
Can't find the CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR. I was told that it is at the 7 O'clock position near the lowest pulley. Searched high and low near there. Can't find any hanging wires either. Can it be somewhere else?

Thanks,
gg1328
Saturday, October 25th, 2008 AT 1:33 PM

21 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi:
That is where it should be. It will be mounted on a small steel bracket.

Joe
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Thursday, November 6th, 2008 AT 1:48 PM
Tiny
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I searched and searched from under the car. There is no crankshaft position sensor anywhere to be found in that area. I know it's supposed to be mounted on a steel bracket. It should be kind of obvious to see? I don't even see any wires in that area either. Can you please help with other advise on finding it?

Thanks,
George
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Thursday, November 6th, 2008 AT 5:18 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi:

I'm sorry to say as of now I haven't been able to find anything different. I checked two manuals, spoke with a buddy who works at an Olds garage (for 25 years), and I even called another friend and everyone tells me the same thing. It's at the front of the engine near the harmonic balancer (crankshaft pulley).

One person did, however, tell me to have you check on the right side of the crank pulley toward 1 oclock. Regardless, the manuals all say the same thing, but I'm not giving up. Give it one more try. Make sure it isn't covered up by wiring or other components. While you do that, I have a couple other guys to call for you. I will get back as soon as I get them.

Joe
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Thursday, November 6th, 2008 AT 7:20 PM
Tiny
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Thanks for caring so much! I will try again to look for it on the weekend and report back to you on my findings. I will let you know sometime Sunday evening.

Thanks again,
George
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Thursday, November 6th, 2008 AT 7:58 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi George:
I figured it out! 1994 was a transition year. The vehicle may not have a crank sensor. In its place is a pick-up coil in the distributor. The crank sensor totally replaced the pick-up coil in 1995. But, in 1994 you may have had either based on the vehicle's production date.

Wow! I thought I was loosing my mind. I even went to Auto Zone and asked for the crank sensor so I could see it. They gave me one exactly like I described to you, so at that point, I never suspected a pick-up coil. Thank god for good friends. I finally got my one buddy to help.

Let me know if this helps.

Joe
POSITIVE FEEDBACK IS APPRECIATED.
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Friday, November 7th, 2008 AT 8:03 AM
Tiny
JNOVACK
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Your wright is was a transition year everything I have been finding says the same as you discribed Jacobandnickolas everything I am finding says it should be on timming cover
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Friday, November 7th, 2008 AT 8:28 AM
Tiny
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Dear Joe:

Thanks for all your help. I'm now a little confused.

You are now saying that I don't have a Crank Shaft Position Sensor, or that it is on the timing cover. If it is on the timing cover, how would I locate it? If I don't have a CSPS then what may be the reason the car don't want to start. Here is my original post from June.

"Hi guys:

I have a 1994 Bravada 4.3 CPI Engine - Vin W, 135,000 miles on it. I own the car about 4 and a half years and is used mainly as a 2nd car and in winters. (4 wheel drive vehicle) About 3 months ago I was driving from Pa to NY, about 120 miles each way. It is mainly highway driving. I was near my destination on the highway, when it stalled out on me. I pulled over and it started right up. Then after I got off the highway, it started to stall out by every light and stop sign, and again it started right up each time.

On my way back home about 6 hours later, again it was doing the same thing. Once I got to the highway it ran fine for a about 105 miles. Once I got to my exit on the highway and got off, the car stalled out again. This time it would not start up. So I had it towed back to my house. The next day it started right up. I shut it off and I went to buy new spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, ignition coil, PCV valve, and fuel filter. I had the fuel pump changed in May of 2005 (about 15,000 miles ago) The fuel pressure is 58 with IOEO. It still does not start. I do not have any engine light on.

I went to a salvage yard where you pull your own parts. I got a used Map sensor, IAC sensor, TPS sensor, EGR valve, CPI unit and a computer. It was from a vehicle that was in an accident. I changed parts one at a time. It still won't start. I checked the oil, I do smell gas in it. I know that means that there is a leak somewhere. I'm not sure what that means for car not starting.

I also read in your posts that it could be the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I have the Haynes repair manual and it does not mention anything about it. Can any one please tell me where it is and be specific about it and is it hard to change? Can someone also tell me if you could start the car with the Air intake plenum off the car, or does it have to be on and under pressure?"

So basically I changed everything that I thought might be causing it not to start. The only thing left was the CSPS. But now you say I might not have one. Do you have any other ideas why it may not start?

Thanks for all your help.
George
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Friday, November 7th, 2008 AT 3:57 PM
Tiny
JNOVACK
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Ok now pull the #1 plug out and with a test plug you can get at any parts store plug wire onto it and have someone turn engine over see if your getting spark if not pull cap off distributor and see if the rotor is turning when it is turned over if so than the black module on the distibutor needs to be replaced it is known as Ignition Control Module
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Friday, November 7th, 2008 AT 6:32 PM
Tiny
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Hi it's me again, THE PAIN IN THE NECK!

I'll try your suggestion on Sunday and report back to you then. But the very first things I changed back in May was the Distributor cap, Rotor and Ignition Coil Module. The ICM on the 94 Bravada is a separate unit bolted on the engine and not in the Distributor.

Thanks,
George
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Friday, November 7th, 2008 AT 8:32 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi:
The pick up coil was replaced by the crank sensor.

It's in the distributor. It wouldn't allow me to copy and paste a picture of it, so if you go to advance auto and type in part number, ME54, it should bring up the picture.

Joe
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Monday, November 10th, 2008 AT 2:27 PM
Tiny
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Dear Joe:

I didn't get a chance to do the spark plug test yet. I'm an electrician and had an emergency call yesterday. I live in PA and by the time I got home it was late. IN order for me to check the spark plug, I have to reinstall the battery, jack up the car in order to remove the tire so I can easily get to the spark plug, and get the help of my wife to start the car. I promise as soon as I get a chance, I will let you know the results. I realise I told you the WRONG PART. I know what you are talking about.

Thanks for caring,
George
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Monday, November 10th, 2008 AT 4:37 PM
Tiny
JNOVACK
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This is what the Ignition Control Module looks like


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/52960_wl2dr140002_1.jpg

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Monday, November 10th, 2008 AT 4:55 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi George:
No problem. Get back to me when you can. I'm in Pa. Too and if you have to work outside, it starts getting miserable this time of year. I think the south is calling my name.

Joe
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Monday, November 10th, 2008 AT 4:56 PM
Tiny
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Hi Joe:

I hear you about the weather. I don't have a garage. I live in the Poconos. We had 8 inches of snow and ice about 10 days ago.

I hope your holiday is going well.

I did the spark plug test today. I got spark in the # 1 spark plug. I tried it in every one of the spark plugs and got spark. When I removed each spark plug I got a little gas dripping out of the spark plugs. I don't know if this is normal or not. I just thought I tell you. So should I now buy the Ignition Coil Module or not. Or should I try something else first.

Thanks for all your help!
George
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Tuesday, November 11th, 2008 AT 1:49 PM
Tiny
JNOVACK
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Ok now check the fuel pressure it sounds like your getting to much if the plugs are dripping with gas leave plugs out and turn engine over but first remove the fuel pump relay/fuse so pump doesn't pump more gas this way you can remove all the gas out of cylenders clean and dry plugs put back in put relay/fuse back in and do pressure test on fuel system and let use know what you get also do a compression test and let use know what you get on each cylender after that put #1 cylender to tdc on compression and see if rotor is at the #1 cylender for the cap
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Tuesday, November 11th, 2008 AT 3:21 PM
Tiny
GG1328
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Hi Again, Joe:

Can I unplug the wires from the fuel relay, or do I need to remove the fuse? Not sure about which fuse it is? Also I need to get a fuel pressure gage. Someone did the test for me in the spring and has moved away since.

I don't know how to check for compression from the cylinders, nor do I have a tester for it. I think if it comes to that, I will give up and junk the car.

The car is almost 15 years old. I only have it since March 2004. It has 135,000 miles on it. I will have to have it towed, have a diagnostic done on it. It will cost me a minimum of $300.00 if not more, just to find out what's wrong. Money is tight right now, and frankly I don't think it's worth it. It's been laying in one spot since May and gathering rust.

Thanks for all that you have done!
George
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Tuesday, November 11th, 2008 AT 4:01 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi George:

Don't give up. Jnovak is directing correctly. If the plugs get spark and are wet, it's one of two things causing it, fuel pressure regulator, or compression. Neither of which is too hard to check. I realize that you may not have the tools, but many parts stores lend out tools. Plus, if the car was running good prior to the problem, I doubt that it's compression.

Try what he is saying.

Joe
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Tuesday, November 11th, 2008 AT 6:30 PM
Tiny
JNOVACK
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If you have an autozone near you they lend tools so you can do the testing your self we will help you do that do not tow the truck we will help get it running for you it may take time but we will get the job done when you do get the testers here are what your looking for fuel pressure to be 55-61 psi when you turn key on but do not start and then unplug the wires from the distributor and remove all spark plugs and install compression tester into first plug and turn engine over record reading on all plugs and let us know what you get
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Tuesday, November 11th, 2008 AT 8:05 PM
Tiny
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I'm back, Joe

During the summer I went to Harry's - It's a place were you pull your own parts. I took off the SPIDER, EGR valve, sensors and some other parts from a 94 Chevy Blazer that looked like it was in an accident.

I replaced the distributer cap, rotor, spark plugs, pvc valve, the gas filter, the ignition coil thats mounted on the engine, and other parts with new ones.

I replaced the entire spider, which included a fuel regulator and fuel injector with mine. To see if it would kick over, nothing. Then I switched one item at a time. Still nothing. Do you think it's the fuel regulator that might be causing it to flood?

To clear out the gas from the engine, can I remove the wires from the fuel relay or do I need to search for the fuse?

Thanks,
George
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Tuesday, November 11th, 2008 AT 8:15 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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If you leave the plugs out, the gas will evaporate.
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Wednesday, November 12th, 2008 AT 4:24 PM

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