Not starting?

Hi,

If this happened after removing the spark plugs, I'm questioning if there is a wiring problem to the coils or we have a failed fuse.

Do me a favor. At the coils, you will see a dark green wire with an orange tracer. With the key in the on position, check that wire for power. (See pic 1 below)

If there is no power, check fuse B in the power distribution box under the hood. In addition to checking the fuse, confirm there is power to and from it.

Here is a link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Power from Fuse B travels through the ASD relay and then to coils.

Let me know what you find, and Merry Christmas

joe

See pics below.

Thank you, soon as I find my test light, I will check it out. I appreciate your response, thank you.

Which wire and fuse are you talking about?

Hi,

As far as the fuse and relay, see pics 1 - 3.

As far as the wire, that is at the coil connector. See pic 4. In the wiring harness to the coil will be a dark green wire with an orange tracer. With the key on, confirm there is power to it.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.

Code reader said emissions purge control valve circuit. I replaced the cannister already. Don't have a test light so couldn't check that wire. I have a analog multimeter but couldn't get any kind of reading off it when trying to test that wire. The fuse is good because when I plugged it back in it made some clicking sound like it engaged the computer. My battery is shit. Have to replace it if I can ever get it to run. So, is it the purge valve wire harness?

Is this plug go into anything, looks like it comes from the headlight area but I could be wrong or is it what I am missing?

Hi,

The connector you found is difficult for me to determine. What color are the wires going to it? I believe one is blue. Also, you certainly can use an analog multimeter. Set it to voltage. The key needs to be in the run position when checking power at the coil. If there is no power, that is the issue.

Let me know. Also, the EVAP code you had wouldn't prevent it from starting. What I need to know is if we lost spark to the plugs. You confirmed fuse B is good, so there should be power present at the coil.

Let me know.

Joe

Well, my battery is no good. Won't hold a charge but I got some power to it and I got no reading on that plug at all. I put the red and black prongs in all 4 holes of the plugs in all scenarios and got nothing.

That plug goes around behind the back of the engine, where does it go exactly?

Hi,

When you checked the connector for power, did you have the black connector on the battery negative and probe the pins, one at a time, with the red connector?

Also, let me know what color the wires are in the harness. I'm not sure what the harness is for as well. I'm not sure where to check in the schematics to identify them.

Let me know.

Joe

The multimeter won't reach the negative post on my battery.

Plus, my battery is no good. It's dead and won't hold a charge anymore.

Hi,

If the battery has failed, we really can't check the electrical circuits. As far as the multimeter not reaching the battery negative, as long as you have the black lead connected to a known good ground, that should be fine.

Let me know.

Joe

Got no reading from the plug.... I used the meter like you said on the two settings in the pics...nothing.

Hey Joe, I have been trying to send you a video on here of what's up on this car, but it won't upload. My name is Rodney if I haven't told you yet. I am sending a pic to see if it's normal wiring or what? That wiring with the yellow dots and the exposed wire is that good, or no?

Hi Rodney,

As far as the wiring is concerned, those appear to have been repaired and a product called heat shrink is used to insulate it.

Okay, in the pics below, which I copied from yours, take a look at pic 1. Keep in mind all multimeters are different, but I would think you want that set on 12v. Set it on 12v and simply test the power from the battery to confirm it shows 12v on the multimeter. Try it on the other settings you tried.

If you look at pic two, that should be the wire supplying power. Now I do have a question about the third pic.

I circled two things. On the right side of the pic appears to be the bare/broken wire. Is that correct? Also, I circled what appears to be a connector that is next to your finger. Is that correct?

Also, is the green wire with the yellow tracer connected in either of the wires in pic 3? If it is, we need to open up the heat shrink and see if there is power where the connection was made. We may have a problem at that point if it ultimately reaches the green/yellow wire.

Let me know. Also, if I don't hear from you right away, have a great New Year's Day.

Take care,

Joe

Pic 3 the circled parts, one was just some insulation and the one with the bare wire it folds back into the gray sleeve. So, cut open that yellow dot stuff and check for power somewhere?

What would be the problem if the power problem reached the green/yellow wire?

Hi,

I am curious if the green/yellow has power to the connector and then it is lost due to an open circuit at the connector.

Let me know. Also, I hope you have a good New Year.

Joe

Okay Joe. Finally got a new battery, I tested the plug got nothing. Then I shaved a little off the green and orange wire to expose the wire and tested it with the key in the on position and got nothing.

How do you test or check these fuses and relays?

Hi,

Here are two links. One explains how to test a fuse and if the fuse is getting power. The second one explains how to test a relay.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse


https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Let me know if that helps or if you have questions.

Take care,

Joe

PS: If you don't have a test lamp, you can use the multimeter in its place.

I tested the fuses all good, I tested where the relays plug into, all good, so does that mean I have a break in my wiring some where? I have a very limited budget. How can I find this break because I looked all over the wires that I could see I couldn't find anything but where the wires are all bunched up behind the motor, they are all like stuck together almost like melted together...

This is what I am talking about. You think the problem is in this mess?

Rodney, I think you best described it, a mess. Yes, there appear to be several different possible issues there.

I copied your pic. The wire I circled seems to be crushed, the other wires seem to have insulation that is damaged. Also, they are near the exhaust and EGR pipe which will get really hot. Do they seem melted together? The wire I circled, is that the green/orange wire we have been checking?

Joe

That entire group of wires was melted together. Not all the way but the insulation was all stuck together. I got them apart and now fixing any exposed wires or bad kinks. What is the thing in the second pic?
I got the top taken off and going to leave it until I hear back from you. Is there anything I should check?

Hi,

That appears to be a splice. If I'm correct, that looks like the dark green/orange, but I can't tell the color of the other wire. Tell me what color it is so I can track it down.

When you repair the wiring, make sure that none of them are broken. They can actually break internally and be hidden by the insulator.

Let me know about the wire color.

Take care,

Joe

If you find the harness needs a lot of work, you may want to see if you can get a used harness at a salvage yard.

Are you wanting to know the color of the wire running into that thing I asked you about in the 2nd pic. That's the green and orange wire.

Hey Joe, can I just run a wire from my relay over to that green and orange wire that doesn't have power and just get power that way.

Hi,

That wire runs throughout the circuits. I suspect there are other things being affected. To answer your question, certainly, you could run a new wire from the relay, but I would follow the wire path, so things get power that need it.

I feel bad for you. You have your hands full with this. The easiest thing to do would be to replace that harness. I understand if you can't do it at this time.

Let me know if I can help.

Take care.

Joe

Could this be my issue. The 2nd pic is to show you where it's at in the back of the engine. Wired come of the same group as my fuel injection wires

Hi,

I'm not sure what to look for in the pics. If you have come across a dark green wire with an orange tracer, that is the power supply to the injectors along with other things.

Let me know.

Joe

I followed that wire and fixed any defects I found and still no fire from the solenoid. I think the computer is fried, what do you think?
I am going to send 2 pics. One is my purge valve cannister, the other is similar, but I don't know what it's called. Do you know?

Hi,

Did you attach pics? If so, could you try resending them because they didn't attach?

Let me know.

Joe

Here.

Just under the wires. The thing that looks like a small purge canister. What is that? Still haven't got this car figured out. I think I fried my computer.

Hi,

That appears to be the EVAP purge solenoid. Is there a part number you can find on it? If so, let me know what it is.

If it is the purge solenoid, it will have two engine vacuum hoses and one electrical connector on it.

Let me know.

Joe

So the car has 2 purge solenoids.

Or is one a purge solenoid and one is a purge cannister?

It only has one purge solenoid. There is a charcoal canister that holds fuel fumes from the fuel tank. When the computer determines to actuate the solenoid, the fumes from the canister are drawn into the engine via the purge solenoid/valve and burned.

Does that help?

Joe