No start no crank

Saw this a few months ago.

May or may not be your issue.

It is called a Clutch Starter Safety Switch. Link below will show you what it looks like:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-clutch-starter-safety-switch-s5900/18970832-P?searchTerm=clutch+switch

This is located at your clutch pedal arm.

It should click when pushed in.

If you compare the old with a new one, you will hear the click, on the one I messed with, it was also apparent that the plunger would not spring back out as far as the new one.

There is a plastic lever on the opposite end from the plunger, lift it and the switch assembly will slide forward out of its bracket.

Keep us informed on progress.

Good Luck!

The Medic

Are your battery terminal clean (I mean really clean!)?

Let's pay attention to the negative terminal.

Is there a orange wire hooked to it?

Let's disconnect the orange wire and clean its connection, then reconnect it.

Will it start now?

The Medic

At the top right of 2CarPros' pages is "repair guides" (a lot of information for repairing)

I jumped in there and grabbed this for you. (link below)

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

You can look over all of it. But what you may need is near the end of the page. Scroll down and look for "Ford Lincoln mercury reset of the immobilizer system"

Next time you reply, let's hear some good news!

The Medic

When you get all dashes on the odometer, it usually indicates a bad ground to the PCM. Check the wiring to the PCM to make sure everything is clean, tight and not damaged. Also, I believe there is a fusible link off the battery positive (small wire). Check it for continuity.

Since you already know where that starter relay is located and it is under the dash you should be able to do this simple test and no tools are needed. Simply put your finger tips on that starter relay and feel if it clicks once when you turn the key to start. If it does, try a new starter relay and then try again. If it does not click make sure #8 fuse is not blown in the battery junction block, near the battery. If it is okay, it appears you are looking at a bad ignition switch.
There is one more possibility though, that the PCM is not grounding the starter relay and ignition switch circuit. Try grounding that black/red wire from the starter relay to the PCM pin 27, then turn the key to start, if it all works now, either the PCM is bad, or the PCM is missing a power or ground.

Just to jump in as well, I had a similar issue. When I connected my scan tool there was no communication. The reason there was no communication was because the PCM was not coming on.

Check all your fuses and relays. Especially the PCM relay. What I found was the the wire starting to melt. I had to open up the relay box and replace a couple of the relay terminal wires with pins. Also installed a new relay since it was toast. Hope my past experience helps.