Engine not starting up?

Tiny
MANNNY76
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 FORD EXPLORER
  • 4.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
Last week I was warming up my truck since it was really cold, it was about minus 15F and after ten minutes of my truck idling it just suddenly shut off. After that it would not start, then the next day I started trouble shooting it. Once I pushed it in my garage, the next thing I did was I checked my fuel pump; it seemed to be working fine since I could hear it humming. I also checked fuel pump fuses and relays, they also seemed to be fine. Also I checked the fuel pump pressure, it gave me 55 psi, I do not know if that is the correct measurement for the pressure to be at though. Another thing I checked was my crank and my cam sensors; they both have resistance, I just do not know about the required readings. I also tried using starter fluid and l had no luck. Lastly, I removed my intake plenum and replaced the gaskets, thinking it might be a vacuum leak, but when I removed my intake plenum, I noticed that three valve chambers on one side were flooded with gasoline, so After I was done with the gaskets I tried to fire it up and it did not start. I am running out of options, I do not know if I need to check my pressure regulator or not. If you could provide me with any tips on some specs on fuel pump pressure, crank and cam resistance and any other things I should check I would really appreciate it. I am sorry for the really long paragraph by the way, I wanted to provide you with as much information as possible. Also, No trouble codes.
Monday, January 8th, 2018 AT 9:12 PM

13 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,363 POSTS
Hello,

The fact that the cylinders are filled with gas concerns me. If you have a shorted fuel injector it can cause the injector driver to go full on for half of the system which is sounds like you have. Here is a guid et help you test each of the injectors to confirm the failure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

Please run this test and get back to us.

Cheers, Ken
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Wednesday, January 10th, 2018 AT 12:04 PM
Tiny
MANNNY76
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Thanks for replying. I really appreciate it. I can not test my injectors since my car wont start. But I was able to test them individualy after removing them. Im getting 14.3 to 14.1 ohms on all of the 6 injectors. Im getting 12 volts on each connector when key is on Im also getting the click sound when I apply 12 volts on each of them.I am replacing three injectors to eliminate this possibility. Im also going to replace my cam and crank since they are no too expensive. I will let you know tomorrow when am done. If you have any other sugestiĂ ns on what else I can check let me know I will really appreciate that. Also going to drain my fuel and put fresh one. Thanks again
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Friday, January 12th, 2018 AT 9:05 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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It sounds like the injectors are okay. I would check all grounds and power sources to the ECM here is a guide and a wiring diagram to help you get the job done.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

If the wiring checks out the ECM must have had a problem a voltage surge perhaps I would look into a rebuilt ECU.

Let me know
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Saturday, January 13th, 2018 AT 7:58 PM
Tiny
MANNNY76
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Hi Ken. Thanks again for replying. I giving you an update on the explorer. I checked for power to the cam and crank sensors from connectors. With key on only getting 1.49 volts to the crank sensor on any pin. And im getting 0.03 from the cam sensor connector. I checked with multimeter from negative battery post to the connector pins. Also trace crank wiring to ecu and checked for resistance and I got 0.00 on both wires. Still need to trace the cam sensor wires. Do you know if any fuses or relays need to be check. If so let me know which ones.
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Monday, January 15th, 2018 AT 8:52 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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I would check the PCM relay.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken
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Tuesday, January 16th, 2018 AT 10:00 AM
Tiny
MANNNY76
  • MEMBER
  • 25 POSTS
Hi Ken. Quick update. Relays seems to be ok. I have 12volts getting to the relay. However there is only 1.49 volts coming out of the pcm pin that feeds the crank sensor. I had to put a jumper from pin 87 to 30. Tried several relays. Also checked the connector that feeds power to the pcm with key on, and they all have 12 to 11.5 volts ecept for pin 3a (brown) which gave me 1.15 to 1.45 back and forth. And pin 4a (pink) gave me 1.69 volts. Dont know if thats normal. Let me know what you think. Thanks
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Tuesday, January 16th, 2018 AT 7:49 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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It sounds like the voltage regulator inside the PCM has gone out. Make sure you check the power and grounds to the PCM and if all okay it sounds like the PCM has gone out. You may be able to get a used one and plug it in to see if it works if not the unit will need to be programmed.
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Wednesday, January 17th, 2018 AT 9:39 AM
Tiny
MANNNY76
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Hi ken. Noticed no voltage on fuse 39 in junction box, fuse is good with key on. Thanks.
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Thursday, January 18th, 2018 AT 12:33 AM
Tiny
MANNNY76
  • MEMBER
  • 25 POSTS
Also 42 and 43. They only have power when battery is disconnected from negative post. But if I connect the negative battery terminal to the post no more current flow. Key on or key off. So dont know if this is normal. Are these fuses suppose to be live all the time? Just noticed that Im getting 12 volt on my crank sensor. But only if negative battery cable is disconnected from cranksensor connector to negative battery post without negative battery cable connected. As soon as I connect the battery cable I loose all the voltage.
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Thursday, January 18th, 2018 AT 3:32 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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It is starting to sounds like you have a ground cable/strap that is not connected from the engine to the frame can you double check it for me?
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Thursday, January 18th, 2018 AT 4:57 PM
Tiny
MANNNY76
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Do you have a diagram where a should check. You know like a picture one sending you a picture of the fuses that loose power on all fuses in red circle. The relay in the blue circle clicks when Negative battery is connected. Which is the police ivd relay. If I reconnect the battery while testing fuse 39 this relay stars clickng non stop till I disconnect the negative terminal. Hope this helps you to help me. Thanks in advance ken. I really appreciate your help.
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Thursday, January 18th, 2018 AT 11:23 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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This is sounding more and more like a PCM problem. Have you done a pin to pin check of the wiring harness if so I would do the PCM.
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Friday, January 19th, 2018 AT 10:37 AM
Tiny
MANNNY76
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How do I do that? I will check, just tell me which connector and what to expect from each pin. This issue happened even when connectors where not connected to the pcm. Some pins that are powering the pcm, supply only 1.2 volts. Pin 3 and 4 some pins don’t have voltage at all I just don’t know if all pins need to have 12 volts besides the 4 black and white ground wires.
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Friday, January 19th, 2018 AT 2:19 PM

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