Engine cranks but will not start

Tiny
CRAZYDRIVER843
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Iv taken the fuel rail off and whatched the injectors pulse. When you first start cranking and keep cranking with out stopping. All 4 pulse then 1, 3 and then 3 and 3 will keep pulsing. I replaced the cam sensor and still the same thing. I talked to someone about this and they found out that the injector driver is bad in the computer. Can this be flashed to fix the problem. Or does the computer have to be replaced?
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Monday, April 1st, 2019 AT 6:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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Well, I'm happy to hear you may have found a solution, but not so happy if it's going to cost a bunch.

Injector and coil drivers are high-power switching transistors. When they short, it's a permanent failure. Sorry, but the only fix is to find a different computer or send yours to be repaired. I would recommend finding one in a salvage yard. If you have a "Pick-A-Part" or "Pull-A-Part type yard, a replacement computer should be less than 40 bucks.

Caradiodoc
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Monday, April 1st, 2019 AT 6:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAZYDRIVER843
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Would you suspect the computer to be at fault? With the injectors mispulsing. Or could there be something else causeing this that I haben't replaced yet?
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Monday, April 1st, 2019 AT 6:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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The injector drivers are inside he computer. As long as there is 12 volts to one wire of each injector during engine cranking or running, the drivers ground the second wire of each injector to make them pulse. There's nothing in that circuit between the computer and each injector but the wire.

Caradiodoc
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Monday, April 1st, 2019 AT 6:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAZYDRIVER843
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Could there be something else that would cause this issue? What circuit should I look in?
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Monday, April 1st, 2019 AT 6:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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Lets back up a minute and double-check a few things. Do you have good spark from both coils? And does the fuel pump run during engine cranking? If you have fuel pressure and spark, that just leaves the computer not firing the injectors. Double-check that one wire on each injector has full battery voltage during cranking. That will be around 10 - 11 volts.

By the way, the computer won't work properly if it isn't grounded. Run a jumper wire from it to the mounting bracket or battery negative cable if it isn't bolted into its bracket.

Caradiodoc
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Monday, April 1st, 2019 AT 6:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAZYDRIVER843
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I do get voltage from all the injectore while cranking. I replaced the coil and get spark from all plugs too. I replaced the computer, I found one at a good price but still the same isssue. Something is activeing the asd relay I think. I can't seem to find out what is causing that. Do you know if there is something on the side of the crank shaft that the crank sensor uses to pick up location refference?
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Monday, April 1st, 2019 AT 6:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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Sorry for the delay in replying. My Verizon e-mail service is down for maintenance going on two days now. I am not receiving automated messages that you posted another comment. Hopefully that will be fixed soon.

If you have spark, the ASD relay is turning on properly. He sends voltage to the coils, injectors, fuel pump or pump relay, and alternator field.

Look for a separate fuel pump relay. If you have one, pop the cover off and reinstall it, then watch if it clicks while a helper cranks the engine. If it does not, we need to figure out if the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor are working. Normally they must both be working for the ASD relay to turn on.

Caradiodoc
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Monday, April 1st, 2019 AT 6:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAZYDRIVER843
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I have just thought about checking thwe timing again. I did a visual check it appeared to still be correct at the cams, there is an access cover that can be removed. I really couldn't check if the crank was lined up due to the timing cover being in the way of the mark on the sprocket. I am taking all of that apart to double check because if that is not the problem I am having the care towed to the dealer for more indepth diag. My questioon is, is it possable for the timing to be off on the intake cam by half a notch to cause the car not to start. And is it possable for the timming to be off a little bit but not enought to cause any problems to bend a valve or cause any internal damage. I have noticed the ideler pully is broken/worn out the belt is not sitting on it where it should be but is not off it. I was thinking that the hydrolic tensioner may not be putting proper tension on the tnsioner pully. And could have cause the intake cam to be off a little. I have turned the engine by hand and by key and felt no resistance or any noise to indicated internal damage I know the 420a engine is an interference engine.
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Monday, April 1st, 2019 AT 6:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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You're getting out of my area of expertise now. One notch off with the timing belt on the cam sprocket is not enough to cause valve damage. The engine should still run but it will be low on power. A compression test will verify the valves are ok.

Caradiodoc
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Monday, April 1st, 2019 AT 6:19 PM (Merged)

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