Cranks will not start, have no power to coil?

Before we get wrapped around the axle, I have a suspicion you're finding the wrong conclusion based on when you're taking some voltage readings. Go back to the ignition coil or any injector on the dark green / orange wire. That comes from the ASD relay. Use a test light if possible as most digital voltmeters don't respond fast enough. You should see 12 volts there for only one or two seconds when you turn the ignition switch to "run", then it will go to 0 volts. What's important is that 12 volts must come back during engine rotation, (cranking or running).

If the 12 volts doesn't come back during cranking, the logical suspect is the crankshaft position sensor. It has to be removed to replace the transmission. Besides the possible physical damage, the air gap is critical. On older models, that was set with a thick paper spacer on the end of the sensor. On yours, it is fixed by the design of the mounting bracket, so no adjustment is possible. That doesn't mean it can't get bent by the ring on the torque converter.

The sure-fire way to know if the culprit is the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor is to use a scanner to view live data. On Chrysler's DRB3, both sensors are listed with a "No" or "Present" to show when their signals are showing up. You're looking for the one that stays on "No". When either signal is missing, the ASD relay won't get turned on. That turns off the 12 volts to the ignition coil(s), injectors, oxygen sensor heaters, alternator field, and the fuel pump or pump relay. Aftermarket scanners have a similar way to show if the signals are there.

You can also try reading the diagnostic fault codes, but that might not help in this case. Chrysler made doing that yourself real easy. Cycle the ignition switch from "off" to "run" three times within five seconds, leave it in "run", then watch the code numbers appear in the odometer display. You can go here:

https://www.2carpros.com/trouble_codes/obd2

to see the definitions, or I can interpret them for you. The problem here is it takes a little time, as when a stalling engine is coasting to a stop, to detect a missing cam or crank sensor signal. Just cranking the engine might not be enough for the code to set, so don't assume a sensor is okay just because there's no code set for it.

Let me know what you come up with.

Hi,

If you have a live data scan tool, see if there is an RPM signal when cranking the engine. If there isn't, then the CKP may have an issue. Considering it is mounted right at the bell housing of the transmission, there is a chance the wiring was damaged, or it was disconnected. See pic 1 below.

Also, power to the coil runs from the powertrain control module via a black wire with a gray tracer. Is that where you are checking for power? Did you check while the engine was cranking? See pic 2

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

Yep, no RPM signal usually indicates a problem with the CKP. I'm glad you got it taken care of and it's running.

Take care of yourself and feel free to come back anytime in the future.

Joe