The Injector Pulse was continuous and always flood the engine?

Good afternoon,

Do you mean the injector pulse is not a pulse signal but a constant signal?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Can you verify voltage to the ignition coil connector to verify battery voltage with the key on?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

I attached a wiring diagram for you to view the coils.

Keep me updated with the results.

Roy

The injector signal is a pulse signal.

The ECM is what controls the spark based on conditions.

Make sure the crank sensor is connected and you have an RPM signal while cranking.

If you have that, it sounds like the ECM is a failure.

Roy

That was the next step to verify the ECM is not firing the coils.

Roy

Keep me updated with the results.

Roy

We will be here if you have any other questions.

Roy

If it were timing, it would show low compression. Even if it were timing, you would still have sparked all the time.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

I attached the location of the sensor for you.

Roy

Do you have an RPM reading on the tachometer while cranking? That will tell you if the crank sensor is working.

Beyond that, we are talking about the ECM.

Roy

Then this sounds like you have a failed ECM. It controls the spark based on the input from the crank sensor.

Roy

Hi,

The issue is likely because the new ECM hasn't been fully initialized with the security system. Only IVIS (NATS) ignition keys with ID numbers that have been registered into the ECM and the IMMU allow the engine to run.

The idea that you replaced the ECM indicates it needed to be initialized. Have you performed initialization with CONSULT-II or equal and re-register all IVIS (NATS) ignition key IDs? That is what the P1611 indicates and is preventing the vehicle from starting, but I don't know if you have the tooling.

Let's see what Roy indicates as well, but I believe there is no way to relearn the key codes without dealer tools.

Let us know.

Hi,

The coils all receive power from the ECCS relay, which in turn gets power to the secondary side of the relay from fuse 58. If you look at each coil, you will see a red wire. Those are the power supply. At the cylinder 3 coil, there is a splice which is what sends power to all the coils. With the key on, check for power at each of the coils' red wires.

So, if fuse 58 is faulty, that would prevent it. Also, a faulty ECCS relay can cause the issue. Or the primary side of the relay may not have power or ground. Power to the primary side is from the PCM. Once that power is sent and the ground is provided, the primary side of the relay's electromagnetic coil causes the secondary side to close and send power to the coils. Once the key is on, each coil should have 12v at the red wire. From that point, the ECM provides a ground path to each coil at specific times for fire the spark plug.

If you haven't already, check the fuse and relay I mentioned. If you have and both are good, use a test light to confirm power to and from fuse 58. If that is good, remove the ECCS relay. With the key on, two of the pins will have power. Confirm that for me. If they do, then check the relay itself.

Here is a link that explains how to check for power at the fuse and how to check a relay:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Note: fuse 58 is in the under-hood fuse box on the left side of the engine compartment. The ECCS relay is in relay box 2. See pic 3 for location and pics 1 and 2 for schematic.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

joe

See pics below.