No spark on all plugs

Did the no spark occur before or after you disconnected the alarm? Most connect into the ignition or fuel to shut them off if tampered with. See if you can find the install instructions for it and simply reverse the process, repair any cut wires and eliminate that as a possible problem.

My next thought would be that the crank sensor has failed, it will cause hard starting and loss of spark.

What do you have for test equipment?

Is the alarm/immobilizer an OEM Dodge unit or after-market? It is very possible that it is the problem if it does not function.

I would start by testing the power and grounds to the coil pack. Also the resistance across the towers. If you unplug the coil you will see three pins. Center is battery power Pin to the 1/4 side fires 1/4, pin to the 2/3 side fires 2/3 by grounding and breaking the circuit.
When you get your meter you can check the resistance across the towers. 1-4 should be 3,500 ohms min. 4,900 maximum 2-3 is 2,950 ohms to 4,100 max.
Then from the center power pin to the outer pins should be.45 -.65 ohm.

If the coil checks out then check at the center pin on the coil wiring harness pin for the ASD signal that would indicate the cam sensor is okay. That test is as follows and tests the cam and crank signals.

Connect a test light to the B+ (battery voltage) terminal of the coil electrical connector and ground. The B+ wire for the DIS coil is the center terminal. Do not spread the terminal with the test light probe.

Turn the ignition key to the ON position.- The test light should flash ON and then OFF. Do not turn the Key to OFF position, leave it in the ON position.

If the test light flashes momentarily, the PCM grounded the ASD relay.

If the test light did not flash, the ASD relay did not energize. The cause is either the relay or one of the relay circuits.

Crank the engine.
If the test light momentarily flashes during cranking, the PCM is not receiving a crankshaft position sensor signal.

If the test light did not flash during cranking, unplug the crankshaft position sensor connector. Turn the ignition key to the off position. Turn the key to the ON position, wait for the test light to momentarily flash once, then crank the engine.

If the test light momentarily flashes, the crankshaft position sensor is shorted and must be replaced.
If the light did not flash, the cause of the no-start is in either the crankshaft position sensor/camshaft position sensor 8 volt supply circuit, or the camshaft position sensor output or ground circuits.

Please let us know what happens. We want to see you back on the road. :)

Get a meter, Non-LED test light and you can test far more than you would think. Then add a scope like a Pico 4 channel and a decent scan tool and you can repair 99% of the issues with the electronics. A copy of Paul Danners book to explain all of the systems also will help a lot.

It is not a cheap tool but once you start using a scope you can check things you never thought could be tested. Crank, cam, MAP, cam/crank correlation, relative compression tests, and much more. You can download the software itself for free, then use some of the example files to "play" with it. They make a 2 channel as well.
For a scan tool it will depend on your budget, I have got a bunch laying around here. Mainly because they all have gaps or issues where they do not work well, even my OEM ones flake out now and then. I suggest looking at the Autel Maxisys Elite or the MS908 line. If you are just looking for a good tool but do not want everything look at the MS 906 line. For a ton of tools and support check out AEtools and AESwave They are both authorized sellers and provide support as well as a lot of other help.

Great job. Glad to hear you got it repaired.

Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

Cheers, Ken