NO start/no power/no crank

Tiny
TRISCUIT
  • MEMBER
  • 1986 TOYOTA PICKUP
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 121 MILES
Headlights work and do not dim when turned on. There is no power to gauges or interior whatsoever. Here’s the breakdown:

Battery is fully charged and a jump does nothing. Cables are new with marine terminals and all points read at 12.6v.

I installed a new ignition switch because old one was janky and had clearly been messed with = nothing.

I have 12+ volts at positive cable on starter but no power to starter wire from ignition.

The starter has good ground and lights up with test light grounded and probe touching starter housing.

Jumpering the starter successfully gets the engine to crank.

Starter relay clicks when checked and has no DC drop when checked with multi-meter.

All fuses are fine as I checked them individually.

Checked the fusible link (previous owners did a lot of poor maintenance/no maintenance on truck) and have gone through pictures and videos to correctly check and re-wire it = nothing. But I’m open to receiving final assistance in ensuring it’s correctly wired because no one I found specified where each wire should be connected to the FL. Rather everyone says “make sure to connect the wires back the way they were” which doesn’t help much if it was wrong to begin with and I suspect it was as the link “housing” was clearly melted at some point.

I took the truck in to see about it running rich and being somewhat low power BEFORE all of this and mechanic said the 2nd fuel injector wasn’t working so he installed a new one. Took it home and felt it start to lose power while driving but it picked back up and got home fine. Next day, no start/no crank. I have no power to any of the wires on the ignition switch including the one that should have constant voltage, as well as those that should have power with the key turned to ACC.

I’m at a loss and need help, please.
Saturday, November 16th, 2019 AT 4:33 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
MASTERWRENCH
  • MECHANIC
  • 258 POSTS
The lack of 12v at the ignition switch is definitely your issue. I've attached several wiring diagrams of the ignition switch including where the B+ power originates from(the circuit in question is highlighted). It does appear to pass through several fusible links, so it's possible one of those is the issue. I would start at the battery and work your way into the cab, checking for power at various locations as you go.
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Sunday, November 17th, 2019 AT 8:43 PM
Tiny
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Hey MasterWrench, thank you for responding. I will check the AM1, AM2, 30 and 40A fuses again tomorrow to make sure they are not blown. The only FL I know of is at the +battery terminal to the 80A fuse in the engine fuse box so I will look for the others as well and respond when I know more. Thanks again.
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Sunday, November 17th, 2019 AT 9:14 PM
Tiny
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Alright, I successfully got the truck to start again! Hooray! However when using the test light at each point on the ignition relay the first time they all lit up. Then, none of them lit up, even though the engine was running. Huh? The last time I touched the ST1 contact with the test light probe and the starter cranked! What the heck is going on?
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Monday, November 18th, 2019 AT 4:15 PM
Tiny
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  • MECHANIC
  • 258 POSTS
I have to say, that doesn't make a lot of sense. Just to confirm, you had the clip lead of your test light attached to ground, correct? The only way the starter would have engaged by touching the ST1 terminal is if you somehow supplied 12v to it. Is it possible the test light probe may have also been touching another terminal next to the ST1?
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Monday, November 18th, 2019 AT 7:49 PM
Tiny
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I did have the test light grounded and it is entirely possible that I accidentally touched two terminals at the same time. I should say that I was probing at the solder points up by the ignition cylinder, not down at the harness terminals. I’ll check it out again tomorrow.

I should be getting 12v to the IGN terminal at all times shouldn’t I? Initially I was and then I was not, despite the engine running. I just do not want to “discover” that the truck isn’t starting, again.
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Monday, November 18th, 2019 AT 9:11 PM
Tiny
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  • MECHANIC
  • 258 POSTS
That's correct. You should have 12v there all the time. If it's coming and going, you probably have a loose connection somewhere in the harness. You could search for it, but given the current wiring condition of the truck, you might be better off just running a new wire from a fuse under the hood, straight to that terminal on the ignition switch.
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Tuesday, November 19th, 2019 AT 5:01 PM

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