No power going to front actuator

Tiny
MATTIE0393
  • MEMBER
  • 40 POSTS
No it doesn’t do anything. I checked for voltage and I am only get voltage out of the one wire. From front actuator and I follow the wiring harness up to where it hooks up to and I am only getting power to one wire there is two if you want I can take a video later to show you what I am talking about. If you do not know.
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Tuesday, September 17th, 2019 AT 10:05 AM
Tiny
MATTIE0393
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No it doesn’t feel like it’s in four wheel drive. I got no power going to front actuator expect 1wire.
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Tuesday, September 17th, 2019 AT 5:10 PM
Tiny
MATTIE0393
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No it doesn’t feel like 4wd goes in when I turn the wheel I cannot feel it. And there is no power going to front actuator expect one wire.
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Tuesday, September 17th, 2019 AT 5:42 PM
Tiny
MASTERWRENCH
  • MECHANIC
  • 258 POSTS
Okay. That helps rule a few things out. At this point, we know the shift motor is responding to the switch and changing modes the way it supposed to. The fact that it shifts back and forth between 2 Hi and 4 Hi suggests that the position sensor on the transfer case is most likely working the way it should too.

This brings us back to the front axle disconnect(FAD). You mentioned only having power on one of the wires at the disconnect actuator. Are you measuring this with a volt meter or a test light? There should only be one circuit there with full 12v on it. So if you're using a test light, it's only going to light on that one circuit. Take a look at the attached wiring diagram of the FAD system. Pin 3(dark blue w/red tracer) at the FAD connector should have 12v with the ignition key on. Pin 4(violet w/dark green tracer) is the signal circuit and should have some amount of voltage on it which will change with FAD position(not sure the value as it's not specified in the service manual). Pin 2(violet w/dark blue tracer) is the motor control circuit and should have either power or ground while it's engaging or disengaging.

That being said.... With everything connected, measure the voltage(with a voltmeter) on Pin 2 which turning the shift knob from 2 Hi to 4 Hi. The easiest way to do this is by sticking a paperclip or small pin in the back of the connector to attach your positive lead. Check out the links below for additional information on using a voltmeter and testing circuits.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Let me know what you find!
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Tuesday, September 17th, 2019 AT 8:18 PM
Tiny
MATTIE0393
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I know when I tested the wires with a meter it didn’t give anything for other 3 wires.
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Wednesday, September 18th, 2019 AT 10:22 AM
Tiny
MASTERWRENCH
  • MECHANIC
  • 258 POSTS
Did you measure any of them while turning the shift knob?
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Wednesday, September 18th, 2019 AT 11:09 AM
Tiny
MATTIE0393
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  • 40 POSTS
What do you mean measure? No numbers light up when I did the other 3 they read 0.
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Wednesday, September 18th, 2019 AT 2:57 PM
Tiny
MATTIE0393
  • MEMBER
  • 40 POSTS
So do you think I should go to the computer and pull the plug on it and get some spray electrical cleaner? Or what should I do?
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Wednesday, September 18th, 2019 AT 5:09 PM
Tiny
MATTIE0393
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Masterwrench help.
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Thursday, September 19th, 2019 AT 3:22 PM
Tiny
MASTERWRENCH
  • MECHANIC
  • 258 POSTS
Sorry for the delayed response. At this point you have one of three things occurring in the four wheel drive system.

1. Tcase position sensor not working. This would prevent the TIPM from determining what position it's in which would cause it to not engage the FAD (not likely based on findings above).

2. Internal FAD actuator failure.

3. Wiring issue between the TIPM and the FAD.

To really narrow it down much further from this point, you would need a scan tool that allows you to monitor the position sensors in the TIPM. If you are able to get access to one, you would need to look at t-case position. It should match the position of your shifter knob. If it never changes to 4HI and continually displays "shift in progress" after you've placed the knob in 4HI, that indicates a position sensor failure at the t-case. If it changes state the way it should, I would suspect a failed FAD actuator at that point.
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Saturday, September 21st, 2019 AT 5:39 AM
Tiny
MATTIE0393
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Ya, but if it was a bad sensor is that why I don’t have power to there other 3 wires up at front actuator? Because all I am getting is power to on wire and even power one wire up to that part I showed you up by firewall.
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Saturday, September 21st, 2019 AT 6:56 AM
Tiny
MATTIE0393
  • MEMBER
  • 40 POSTS
And I don’t know if the would of messed something up but I put a 6”lift in and did a 3” body lift.
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Saturday, September 21st, 2019 AT 7:12 AM
Tiny
MATTIE0393
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  • 40 POSTS
I might check to see again on the fuse what fuse should I look for for my four wheel drive.
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Saturday, September 21st, 2019 AT 6:32 PM
Tiny
MASTERWRENCH
  • MECHANIC
  • 258 POSTS
Have you checked checked voltage on Pin 2 of the FAD connector with it plugged in and while shifting from 2Hi to 4Hi? I know you posted a picture of your meter above, but the screen was blank.

Let me know.
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Monday, September 23rd, 2019 AT 7:24 PM
Tiny
MATTIE0393
  • MEMBER
  • 40 POSTS
Yes and I am only getting power to one pin not other 3.
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Tuesday, September 24th, 2019 AT 3:28 PM
Tiny
MATTIE0393
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  • 40 POSTS
Anyone knows what or if there is a fuse for my front actuator 4x4 and if so what is it called?
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Tuesday, September 24th, 2019 AT 3:46 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,380 POSTS
Look at the wiring diagrams it shows everything.
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Tuesday, September 24th, 2019 AT 7:34 PM
Tiny
MATTIE0393
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  • 40 POSTS
I checked all fuses and all good. Now what should? I do could it be a ground?
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Wednesday, September 25th, 2019 AT 4:02 AM
Tiny
MATTIE0393
  • MEMBER
  • 40 POSTS
Masterwrench help me what should I try next
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Wednesday, September 25th, 2019 AT 5:23 PM
Tiny
MATTIE0393
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You think it could be a bad sensor? But if I had a bad sensor would that not give me power to other 3 wires?
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Wednesday, September 25th, 2019 AT 6:45 PM

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