Headlights and Turn Signals are not working?

Hello JREMPEL924@YAHOO.COM,

Do the brake lights work? What about parking lights? If you have turn signals in the mirrors, do they operate?

Anything else not working?

Do you have Automatic Headlights?

The lights that are out go through something called the Smart Junction Box. There was a recall on this module for 2015-2017 model years for the Sonata.

I don't see anything for the 2013 Elantra, but it is best to check just in case.

You can go directly to the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration or NHTSA website and enter your VIN and see if there are any recalls for your vehicle pertaining to this module.

Here is their site:
https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls

Your VIN can be found on your registration in most states but is also located under the windshield on the driver's side or on the driver's side door on a label.

Check there and see what you can find because if it is a recall, they have to fix it for free and who doesn't love free!

Let's check and make sure we are getting power to this Smart Junction Box.

There are two 60-amp fuses in the fuse box under the hood on the driver's side front corner of the engine compartment. These provide power to this module aka Smart Junction Box.

They are located in the black strip called a multi-fuse. If you look from the side, see if anything is broken or any black is seen on the clear plastic shell.

This video is for a different type of fuse but will show you what you are looking for.
https://youtu.be/CB4aDkBUaB8

Please let me know what you find, and we can go from there.

I have also added a few more fuse diagrams for you.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello JREMPEL924@YAHOO. COM,

Okay. Electrical problems can have weird symptoms. Vibrations just from shutting the door can make things work again.

The hazard switch and the headlight/ turn signal switch, often called a Multi-Function Switch, are 2 different switches, in 2 different locations. So, it is unlikely it is the switch.

However, the Hazard Light Switch and the Multi-Function Switch both use the same connector at the Smart Junction Box. I have added a diagram of this Smart Junction Box showing this specific connector, I/P G, in red.

I have also added a wiring diagram for you of this connection.

My information is telling me that this Smart Junction Box is under the left side of the dash.

This connector may be damaged. Look at the harness and the connector and see if you see any obvious signs of damage to the wires or the connector. It could be getting rubbed or pushed against something. If not try wiggling the harness with the turn signal, headlights, or hazard lights on and see if anything is coming on or off.

This specific connector is on the back of the box. So, the box may need to be removed but I would try to avoid this for now and just take a look at the connections, specifically this connector on the back. (See image)

I have included instructions in order to remove the lower Crash Pad to gain access to this Smart Junction Box.

You may be able to wiggle the box in place with the Crash Pad removed, with key on and lights on and see if shaking or moving the box makes the lights turn on or off.

I am wondering if maybe you are hitting this area with your knees when getting in or out of the car, or if the box is loose, or a problem with the connector.

So, try removing the Crash Pad and see if moving the box or its connector, I/P G, makes any difference. Believe it or not this is a good way to find an electrical issue in a car.

I would also try opening and closing the door and see if this box is moving.

Let me know if you need any help or I can clarify anything for you.

Also, the instructions say to use a screwdriver to pry these panels. It is best to use a trim puller, which I will add a picture of it for you. However, if you only have a screwdriver, wrap it in electrical tape so your trim isn't damaged.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello JREMPEL924@YAHOO. COM,

That's an interesting development. Hold off for now on getting to that box. Let me look at a few things. Thank you for bringing that to my attention.

Right before you drove or getting in did you hit any of the trim under the steering wheel or adjust the steering wheel height at all?

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello JREMPEL924@YAHOO.COM,

Okay, maybe it is from opening and closing the door. When it shuts, there is a lot of force dissipating through the body of the car. If that module/fuse box is faulty or has a loose connection, then it could be causing the change in symptoms. Along with power being turned on and off when the key is cycled.

If you haven't already, please go to this government website and enter your VIN and see if there are any recalls for your vehicle. If it is easier, you can send the entire VIN to me so I can check.

Here is the site:
https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls

Please let me know if you have any because this seems like a common issue and Hyundai may end up replacing it for free.

In the meantime, I am going to look at some more wiring diagrams and flowcharts. If you have any other symptoms or notice anything else let me know.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello JREMPEL924@YAHOO.COM,

Okay, there is one open recall that is for free upgrade to the Anti-Theft System. I called my local Hyundai Dealer to find out because the government site is only for safety recalls.

You will need to call the Hyundai Dealer in you are and schedule a time for them to bring it in to do the recall. Apparently, it can cause the vehicle not to start if the car is locked using the key fob.

Here is more information on the recall:
https://owners.hyundaiusa.com/us/en/resources/technology-and-navigation/anti-theft-software-upgrade.html

Doesn't pertain to our problem though but I wanted to let you know either way so you can get it taken care of.

So, for our issue, I want you to try this if you can for me.

1) Turn the key to the on position but do not start the car.
2) Turn on headlights and turn signals and see if they work.
3) If they are or are not working, I want you to shut the door of the car from the outside with the window down.
4) Did anything change or start or stop working again?

Try this a few times and see if you can get anything to change. We are looking to see if a vibration is causing this to start and stop working. This could be a bad connector or a wire that has rubbed through.

I was also told you had 2 recalls done:
A brake switch and a neutral safety switch or something. So, try putting stepping on the brake and putting it into gear then back in park and see if that does anything.

Try that and see if you can find what is making it work sometimes but not other times. Shaking harnesses like for headlights is a good idea as well.

Cycling the key may be doing it too.

Finding an electrical issue in a vehicle can be a daunting task so you may have to do things over and over until the symptom shows back up. So be patient and thorough. If we can narrow our search to a more specific area, it will help a lot.

Let me know if you find anything.

If not, I suggest removing the crash pad and going for that smart junction box.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello JREMPEL924@YAHOO. COM,

Not getting enough power to a module can cause undesired effects.

That sensor keeps tabs on battery health but also tells the ECU how much power is being used to charge the battery without over-charging it.

Since it is part of the electrical system and we are having electrical issues, I think it is a good idea to replace it.

Since your vehicle is American Made and not from Korea, 37180-A5100 is you part number for the sensor and includes the cable.

I have included installation and removal procedures.

The new sensor has to be calibrated at the dealer using their scan tool for it to function properly.

Should only take them 15 mins.

I have added the calibration procedure for you to give to them, but they should know what you are talking about.

In these procedures you will see ISG. ISG is Hyundai's Idle, Stop, Start System that shuts the vehicle off at say a stop light and restarts as soon as your foot is released from the brake pedal.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello JREMPEL924@YAHOO. COM,

I don't think it is helping the issue, but I don't think it is the cause either. Your issue seems to be a loose connection, either at a connector or ground.

An issue at the battery would cause a lot of other problems.

But the Hazards and the Turn Signal/ Headlamp circuits are all affected. But hazards are a separate switch, with a separate ground from the Turn Signal/Headlamp Switch.

The closest thing they have in common is that module/Smart Junction Box Connector.

Of course, a faulty headlamp/turn signal switch is a possibility but it shouldn't affect hazard light operation unless it is shorting out the fuse box. But we have no blown fuses. Normally the turn signal on one side will fail or the headlights but for the whole switch to have an issue is odd.

If you have a multi-meter, we can test the multi-function switch to rule it out.

If you don't have one you can get one easily at Home Depot or your local auto parts store.

Here is a link to one that I have:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-600-Volt-Digital-Multi-Meter-TRMS-Auto-Ranging-Temp-MM420/320822810

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello JREMPEL924@YAHOO.COM,

No that won't work unfortunately. We need to test continuity. So, there can't be any power on the circuit.

Here is video that further explains the process:
https://youtu.be/jegykkfW2RA

Here is more on the subject:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continuity_test

You will still need to remove the crash pad under the steering wheel to get to this connector.

Thank you,
Brendon

Hello JREMPEL924@YAHOO. COM,

Okay. Well, that's good. Good tool to have. It looks like the connector for the switch is behind the cover around the steering column (shroud). So, this means the air bag, steering wheel and the clock spring will need to be removed to access the switch connector for testing according to my information.

I will be honest with you; this is not an easy job. Personally, I would remove the crash pad as stated earlier in the thread and see if you can get to it from behind without removing all that if you really want to test the switch. Also, we will be able to look at the Smart Junction Box connector and see if there is an issue there.

This will also give you room to work.

You may also be able to turn the steering wheel to one side then the other to remove the 2 top screws for the shroud highlighted in yellow (see fig 12)

Then remove the bottom screw and carefully separate the steering column shroud. (See fig 13)

Next remove connector (A) illustrated in fig 15. Place harness to the side for now and test at back of switch using additional provided information.

It is up to you though. If you feel comfortable removing all that then let me know and I will get all the information together for you to remove the steering wheel and other components.

But I think you might be able to skip those steps. So, I would try that first because if the switch is fine then you did all that for nothing.

***Note***
You will be working by the Air Bag so you need to be very careful as even static electricity can set it off.

To disconnect:
Remove negative battery terminal and wrap a rag around it and place it off to the side where it will not contact the battery.

Allow about 20 minutes to pass to make sure all capacitors are discharged.

Then remove any air bag fuses.

***Failing to do so can result in damage to your vehicle and/or serious injury.***

I have included test for the multi-function switch for you.

Let me know if you have any questions or if I can assist further.

Thank you,
Brendon