Why wont my engine starter up and run?

Tiny
SEAP
  • MEMBER
  • 12 POSTS
I unplugged the two cables going into the Distributor and set the Volt meter to 20k on the Ohms.
I believe this to be the coil!?


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411849_PA030679_1.jpg



When I tested the positive and the negative it was sporadic, it didn't really give be an solid number.
Does this mean the coil is bad?


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411849_PA030682_1.jpg



When I tested either the negative or the positive to this pole it gave me 11.54 - 11.68 on the ohm reader.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411849_PA030683_1.jpg


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411849_PA030684_1.jpg



Another thing; Ive put this together to try and get a spark and when I open it up again the rotor doesn't seem to have moved from its original position. Ive tried this numerous times and each time it is in the same position. Does it just default back to the position when the engine in off?
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 10:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SEAP
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  • 12 POSTS
I was thinking about the rotor not turning so I popped off the top of the engine to see if the camshafts were turning. I had my dad try turning over the engine and woe and behold it wasn't turning; which explains why the spark plugs were not getting any electricity. I also noticed that while the camshafts were not moving the Serpentine belt was, so could it be that the timing belt broke? I seems that where the belt is located is also where the oil leak is. It could be that the oil leak caused the belt to break? Or is there something more likely besides the Serpentine belt?
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 10:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SEAP
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  • 12 POSTS
So it was the timing belt. I took the case off the side and found that the belt had snapped. How do I put a new one on? Im assuming that there is a specific way since it keeps the camshafts and pistons in order.
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 10:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
EMMPEETHREE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1995 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 250,150 MILES
1995 toyota camry 4cyl LE 250,000KM/150,000Miles
Replaced distributor 4 months ago due to car turning over but not starting. Instantly fixed problem. Now car will again turn over, but won't start - sometimes. Can smell gas coming out of exhaust and hear fuel pump working.

Had car towed home after it was sitting in a mall parking lot for 2hours, wouldnt start back up on way back. Left overnight, started on first try like new. Went for a drive to warm it up and recharge battery, drive fine for first 5 minutes, then when I tried to acclerate, wouldnt give me any more power and RPM's started decreasing. Barely made it home - stalled twice while driving - hard to restart in neutral while rolling down the street. Got back home and parked, car wouldn't restart!

I'm stumped! Last tank of gas was from Chevron, I've never had problems with their gas!
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 10:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,397 POSTS
Hello,

Its not the gas, stations go through way to much to have bad gas problems anymore. I sounds like you have an EFI relay that is going out which supplies power to the ECM I just fixed a car just like this which had the same problem in the shop the other day.

Here is a guide to show you how to check the relay

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (Below)

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 10:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ARWOLKOWSKI
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  • 6 POSTS
Would this cause an intermittent problem? I heard the relay works or it doesn't?
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 10:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,397 POSTS
No the relay will work sometimes and not others which is more typical.
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 10:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ARWOLKOWSKI
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Yep, it fixed the problem thanks for the help on this I know it was an old thread.
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 10:08 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MANDYLGCLARK
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 1995 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 175,000 MILES
My car began not wanting to start, it would turn over but not start. It did this several times but would finally start after trying several times. Then it left me on the road. When we went to get it the next day it started right up. Then it died again. It would fire and try to start when we sprayed starting fluid and it tried to start. So we assumed it was a fuel problem, we changed the filter and it started and seemed ok then a short while later it died again, so we replaced the fuel pump. It was ok then for several hours, then it died again. Now it wont even try to start with the starting fluid, checked and it's not getting fire to the plug. Can someone please help?
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Hi there,

Start with a scan to check for any fault code, you don't always get a check light on with all codes, do this and report your findings for more assistance.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MANDYLGCLARK
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I don't have the equipment to scan this, is there any way to check to see if it is the ecm is the problem?
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Locate the data link terminal under the bonnet, with a jump wire connect TE1 & E1 turn on the ignition and count the flashes of the check light, long flash is 10's short is 1s so two long follower by 3 short is code 23. This is called flash codes.

Mark
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MANDYLGCLARK
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Can you tell me exactly where the data link terminal is -I'm not sure where the bonnet is. And will this give me a code even if the check engine has never come on?
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVEW84
  • MECHANIC
  • 673 POSTS
Bonnet=hood.I think the data link connector is near the strut mount.
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MANDYLGCLARK
  • MEMBER
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It looks like I got code 21. Thank you so much for your help! Please let me know what this means if you can.
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Code 21 is the O2 sensor circuit, this could be a number of things, from a vacuum leak, exhaust leak up stream of the sensor, faulty sensor, wiring problem for the sensor, are you able to check these items with confidence?

Mark
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MANDYLGCLARK
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
It was actually # 12, I looked it up as well and it said the knock control sensor? Could this be it, would the knock sensor cause my car to act like this? Once again thank you for helping.
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Code 12 is Engine speed signal knock sensor is 52. The 12 code refers to electrical systems with in the distributor, from 97 on code 12 is cam & crank angle sensor, please make sure of the year as they are 2 very separate sections, both can cause your problem.

Mark.
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Monday, February 22nd, 2021 AT 10:09 AM (Merged)

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