Engine not running

The issue is how the cam sensor was installed. A new sensor will have a thick paper spacer on the end to set the critical air gap. Some aftermarket replacements have a thin plastic rib molded on the end to set that gap. If that type is reinstalled, that rib is supposed to be cut off, then a paper spacer is stuck on to set the gap. That spacer slides off and is done doing its thing the first time the engine is cranked.

When you don't use a new spacer, and the sensor is installed too far, it's the sensor that is damaged, not the tone wheel.

I can't find a drawing of the crank sensor. All I found is it is above the oil pan, on the left side. I never replaced one on this engine, but on many other engines, that sensor is behind the right cylinder head, in the transmission's bell housing. Most of those also use the paper spacer to set the air gap. The concern with those is there is a tone ring added to the flex plate with groups of notches, or cutouts. The Engine Computer reads the resulting signal pulses to know when a piston is coming to top dead center, and in some years, to know WHICH piston is coming to top dead center. It knows that because there are different numbers of notches in each group, and those numbers are different for different years. That means you must use the flex plate that came with the truck for that year, not the flex plate that came with the engine from a different year.

In this case, the tone wheel is cast as part of the crankshaft, and the part numbers for the crankshaft is the same for both years. The only thing you need to look at is if the crankshaft position sensor's mounting bracket is slotted, you need to use a new paper spacer to set the air gap when you install it.

I can't find any reference to the tone wheel for the camshaft, so I don't know if they are the same for both years. The people at the Chrysler dealer's parts department can tell you that. If it is the same for both years, the air gap is the only thing you have to worry about. If they tell you the tone wheel is different, you'll need to switch the camshaft sprocket, which I assume has the tone wheel on it. If you have to go through all that work, it would make more sense to just install a new timing chain and sprocket set for a '99. The old sprocket has worn to match the old chain. Also, I can't say for sure both years use the same number of teeth on the sprockets. Also be aware there will be a key way or a dowel pin to set the orientation of the sprockets on their shafts, and that could be different too, between the two years.

The camshaft sprocket timing signals are different. They used a different sprocket on the 96-2000 engines. The lower sprocket and chain are the same. The balancer is different as well but you want to use the one that matches the engine. I seem to recall that there is a difference in the front engine covers as well but don't remember what.

You eliminated most of the other issues by swapping the intakes. Be aware that 94-96 engines have a bad reputation for cracking the heads. The casting was altered a bit in 97 to mitigate that. I did a similar repair, used a 94 block in a 97. I used the short block but replaced the cam and timing set with the 97 parts. The rest of the parts came from the 97. (It had tossed a rod)

Hello,

Here is what I do. First with the puller installed the best you can fasten a large hose clamp around the jaws and secure firmly. Next take a butane/propane torch and heat the gear slightly. This will make the gear come off easily. Next, heat the new gear in the over to about 200 degrees use a glove and it should slip onto the crankshaft with little force.

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken

Hello,

Lets start with a compression test.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Please run this test and get back to us we are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

OK, Reading through this. You started with a 99 truck and are putting in a 95 engine.
You used the 99 intake and rail, and installed the cam&crank sensors from the 99.
The crank sensor is the same and the crank signal wheel is the same so that part should work.
The camshaft however uses a different trigger wheel on the 99 vs. The 95.
That part has to be changed to make the ECM trigger the spark.
You say you replaced the timing chain and sprockets, with which year engine parts did you use? The picture shows the 99 cam sprocket, does the one you have look the same?
Do you still have the 99 engine?

To set the air gap on the cam sensor the easy way is to take a single thickness piece of cereal box cardboard, put a dab of grease on the end of the sensor. Look into the bore to verify that the high side of the sprocket is in the hole. Then you slide the sensor in and LIGHTLY hold it in place. Now tighten the bolt. When you turn the engine over the first time it will slide the cardboard off and the clearance is set.

The best way is to install it, then mark the location and remove the sensor, then reinstall it to the mark. But I have done it both ways with no ill effects. I've also used two pieces of 3M post it notes when the system was being fussy. Basically the sensor reads the leading and trailing edge of the ring. The paper just sets a gap so the ring will turn and not hit the sensor. If it's set in the wrong spot the sensor will get wiped out the second it gets hit. New sensors come with plastic on them, you install them and the plastic gets shaved off after a couple rotations.

Your choice on the paper/cardboard. It is thin and won't hurt anything, but if it worries you, you can easily use some sticky paper or even a couple pieces of duct tape on the end, then make a mark where the sensor sets on the cover. Remove the sensor and remove the tape, reinstall the sensor. Line it up with the mark and tighten it down. The "special paper" that the dealers use isn't anything special, just a.030 shim of paper with sticky glue on it.

The image matches the one I have for the gears for a 99. So it should be correct.