No crank no start U0100 Code?

Hello, with no check engine light and no comms, I would start by checking all your fuses and then if all ok, next would be powers and grounds at the PCM if nothing stands out during a visual inspection, ie corroded connectors, bad engine/body grounds, etc. Service info has you checking powers and grounds first thing as well, I will post that for you. Are you comfortable with testing wires and have a multimeter and test light?

Here are some guides to help with checking the fuses with a test light if needed. Start with the fuses first, noting any you find that are open circuit (blown fuse).

https://2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester/

https://2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse/

https://2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter/

Here is some service info relating to the U0100 code, notice the U0100 code has to do with Battery power missing. Things such as short to ground (which will pop a fuse), open circuit (meaning the wire is cut in half, or high resistance from poor connections or corrosion. Let us know what you find, we can proceed from there.

When I check the fuse no no at PCM and fuel pump fuse

No power at PCM and fuel pump fuse with fuse in ,but fuse box has power on those terminal

Ok if thats with the key On, thats our issue. Start by pulling some relays and look for an green or white corrosion down inside the fuse box in the engine compartment. I will get some wiring diagrams together for you real quick, and be right back. Check your fuses too, pull them and make sure they have both legs on them, I see corrosion eat fuses too.

Check the MAP sensor for a 5volt reference too. It will be one of the 3 wires. Also check the underside of the fuse box in the engine compartment as best you can. Look for any broken or discolored wires, thats a sign of corrosion inside the insulation.

These are wiring diagrams so you can see how the ECM and Fuel pump relays work on this system. The 4th diagram has 3 wire and 2 wire sensors that use the Reference voltage, so verify that. And then the BCM has to send out a wake up signal to the PCM and TCM (5th diagram) If that signal is missing, the PCM will not wake up, its just a 12volt signal.
And finally the 6th diagram shows that you should have two pins hot at all times with the Pwrtrn relay is out, the fuel pump relay should have one hot pin with it out.
The pwr/trn relay is Ground side controlled. so the PCM grounds the control wire to activate the relay. Buts its common for relay pins and fuse legs to break off and lose contact, but let us know what you find and if you have more questions.

I check power at fuse box PCM 2 had power and fuel pump relay not in 1 leg was hot

One hot leg fuel pump relay

No power at map sensor with key on , I checked with test light

The MAP sensor is only a 5volt reference, use a multimeter and make sure there is a steady 5 volts. 5v is only enough to barely light a test light. Also check the MAP using its ground and then also check using battery negative for your meter ground.
You should have 1 hot leg for the Fuel pump relay, and 2 hot legs at the Pwr/Trn Relay.
Im not sure if you have gotten to checking the ECM powers and grounds yet at the computer. See if the ECM is grounding the PWR/TRN Relay.

We get ground on starter 40 amp fuse where it should not be any ground

So that fuse is blown then?

I don't know, a mechanic was working on it and it still not fix , no check engine light

I'm getting ground on stater fuse when goin + to fuse .

I should not get a ground there

you need to focus on the U0100 code, if the ECM is down, its not going to do anything. A lack of 5volts at the MAP sensor tells me the ECM is not even powering up. Dont get lost down some other rabbit hole if that fuse is not blown. Concentrate on the reason for the no crank. Here are the power and ground wires for the ECM. It needs to receive a 12volt Wake Up signal from the BCM as well. I previously posted the flow chart for a U0100 code, it was up top where it states "info related to the U0100 code". The first thing the manufacturer has you do is check the ECM ground and then power. Follow the service info.

Engine is grounded .

When mechanic check PCM ground it was good . Verified with a bright test light

Not reading no power on 15 amp ecm fuse on left side of fuse box

Pcm pin car too small to check them

Black and with ground wire had a good ground

I can not see the number an PCM to witch pin is what

I don't see any number on PCM pins

The ECM fuse has no power because the ECM relay is grounded (activated) by the ECM. I will post an ECM connector pinout so you can check for powers and grounds (loaded) at the ECM.

Here are the oem ECM pinout diagrams with a few notes on them to help. Make sure to load test carefully with the ECM.

Here is one last bit of info on the terminating resistor inside the ECM. It needs to be ok for the network to be complete, although I have seen Can Bus systems work fine with one side shorted out too.

The only number I see on PCM plug is 53 , I don't see any other number

There is 2 connector goin to PCM one gray but bigger wires wand one black small wire

Grey or

Black ?

Witch one am I checking for power

I just posted the ECM connector pinouts. Yes, there may only be one number on the connector. You need to determine what each wire is by its colors and location in the connector. Do not front probe the connector and spread the connector pins internally.
So up top there, on the diagram that reads ECM X1. Notice (for example) that in the X1 connector, Pin 1 is a Dark Blue wire. Pin 2 is not used. Pin 3 is another Dark Blue wire, Pin 4 -blank, Pin 5 Dark Green wire. This is how you identify that you are on the correct wire.
The label 53 is the Pin label you have to work with, counting each pin forward and back from Pin 53 to determine what the other pin numbers are.

Ok gray or black plug on the ecm ?

I have work with PCM before they had the numbers on them

There a 2 plugs a black with small wire and gray with big wire




The gray connector has that heavy wire with black and with that the ground ...










Black has biggest pin with red and white wires

X1 is Black. There might be plastic covers on the ECM connectors that need to come off first, then you can check the wires from the back of the connector and not spread the front pins. Just dont shove meter leads into connectors, you only need to lightly touch the pins with the meter leads to get a reading. If youre power and ground test go ok with the connectors unplugged, then do a plugged in power and ground check.
So when back probing an ECM connector plugged in you have to be very careful and push the back probe in straight into the back on the connector so as not to short two of the pins together. This can happen easy without even knowing you did it. So only use back probing pins and be easy with the wiring harness.
The 2 diagrams below are the ones you need to work with first. The X1 connector has the power feeds, but note that the only Ground for the ECM is in connector X2 pin 73, Ground G111 is a Black/White wire.
Take notice of the internal Terminating Resistor for the ECM, its two pins 43, 44 in the X1 connector, with both the connectors unplugged, measure the resistance across the ECMs pins 43 & 44. You should read 120 Ohms roughly. This is a quick check of the resistor while you're already right there, but the key needs to be off when checking resistance even though the ECM is unplugged, its just a good thing to remember.
You are looking for the Black X1 connector and yes it will have some higher gauge wires because those are the power feeds.

Ok on ecm black has the smallest wires on this car

On this car black has the smallest wires

Grey has higher gauge wire

Ground is on the gray connecter with black n white stripe wire

From pink and black wire to ground I got no light with test light

On pin 3 blue wire I have 12 volts