The engine will not crank or start?

Tiny
KEN L
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You should have power at both prongs, is the fuse blown? And you should have power at terminal 30 if not this is your problem. Please reference the starter relay wiring diagrams above.
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Sunday, January 14th, 2024 AT 10:14 AM
Tiny
WHITEWULLFF
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No, the fuses are not blown. I have triple and quadruple check them and replaced everything. The only thing left is the wiring harness and I have stripped the wiring harness and looked at every wire. I do not know what else to do. I’m at the end I don’t know, I’ve unplugged the fuse box and looked at all the wires. The Ford dealership doesn’t want to deal with it, so they won’t take it.
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Sunday, January 14th, 2024 AT 2:06 PM
Tiny
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Sorry for the confusion when you said terminal 30, I thought you meant fuse 30. I measured battery voltage on the two inlets in the junction box where the starter relay plugs in. I tested only the two terminals that you use to jump. They both have battery voltage. But now when I try to jump nothing happens. The one fuse terminal in question is noted in my drawing I believe is 113. The upper prong lights up but the lower prong or terminal is dead. Also, in drawing the small fuses have no power. I think somehow 113 is connected to the other fuses through the motherboard. This is exactly what my first fuse box did and why I replaced it. So, I need to know which wires feed those terminals. Either that or I burned up a second fuse junction box. I haven’t taken it apart to check.
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Sunday, January 14th, 2024 AT 3:01 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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So, if you turn the ignition key to the crank position can you feel the starter relay click?
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Monday, January 15th, 2024 AT 8:47 AM
Tiny
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I put my fingers on it I can feel a light click but more so on the PCM relay. So, I had another mechanic come out for another $150 and tells me that it’s the starter solenoid. I told him I had it tested three times, but he insisted. So, I went and bought a brand-new starter and put it on still nothing, but I am able to jump the starter at the relay now.
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Monday, January 15th, 2024 AT 5:36 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Will it crank in neutral? If so, the neutral safety switch is bad.
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Tuesday, January 16th, 2024 AT 9:13 AM
Tiny
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No, it won’t crank in neutral, and I’ve replaced that along with everything else related within the last month. We seem to be going in a circle. Could it be something with the ECM computer? When the first mechanic put his scanner on it, it said it had some old codes about key fob but couldn’t erase them. There is no security on this truck so it’s not that. Idk. Sounds like we’re both out of ideas. In my first post I believe I listed all the parts I’ve replaced. Thanks again
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Tuesday, January 16th, 2024 AT 10:38 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Okay, let's check for power at fuse # 31 with the key on, also if you have power there please check the ltgrn/vio coming out of the ignition switch in the crank position which you can get to by the steering column.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.
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Wednesday, January 17th, 2024 AT 9:19 AM
Tiny
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So, it turns out that eBay vendor sent me the wrong cjb. I’m sending it back today. It does seem odd though that it has the exact same issue with the wrong junction box. Either way I will be back as soon as I receive the correct one.
I also stumble on a very long forum page with some people having trouble finding the correct cjb for example mine 2c7t-14a067ap vs 3c3t-14a067bh and many variants could be problematic locating the one my truck will accept as well as I may have to have it reprogrammed. They also talked about replacing the ECM and other components. I know I’m getting ahead of myself here I’m just hoping it isn’t worst case scenario. Regardless I appreciate all of your guidance and will be back as soon as I get the new part.
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Wednesday, January 17th, 2024 AT 10:29 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yep, I have heard of that issue as well, let me know what happens after you get the correct part.
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Thursday, January 18th, 2024 AT 10:27 AM
Tiny
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Will do sir, thank you.
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Thursday, January 18th, 2024 AT 5:01 PM
Tiny
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Well, there’s an update on my truck and I was able to find an exact match on the fuse box central junction box. I put it in truck start it up with the key no problem ran great for a day went to the DMV today and no start no crank Was able to jump the relay. I got it home and wired in a switch and I’m going to use that as my new key now. I guess I’m not sure what’s going on but hopefully it lasts.
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Thursday, January 25th, 2024 AT 8:03 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Good call, it sounds like it might be the ignition switch.
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Friday, January 26th, 2024 AT 11:07 AM
Tiny
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Well, that was replaced on the second day of my long list of parts I replaced. By best guess since the wire from the fuse box to the s post has no power but did for a day with the new box is if I have this correct. The ignition circuit from the key to switch to relay to neutral S S to stater solenoid some where there is a short. This shirt doesn’t show up in the simple test light test because it would have to be constant voltage which it’s not. That circuit is in the acc side which is only hot when key is on. The problem with finding the short is now that circuit is powered which will disguise the short. I’ve done voltage drop on the wire and got no indicators of loss of battery voltage. So, the switch is still working, and you still need a key to start it so nobody can still it. I’m back on the road so it will have to work. I appreciate your expertise and time thanks again.
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Tuesday, February 20th, 2024 AT 3:36 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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You are welcome, nice looking truck!
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Tuesday, February 20th, 2024 AT 11:09 AM

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